Thanks for the lens cleaning info. I don’t have compressed air, so I just used a real light squirt of Windex on microfiber. The spot was greasy, but it got better. It is not perfect, but good enough I guess.
By the way, the ring under the driver was VERY loose, but didn’t seem to effect anything.
Does anyone have a post listing reference of mods explained for these flashlights? It would be great to see everything linked up.
+1
I just upgraded mine with a BLF17DD driver & low resistance mods on the springs, and now it is REALLY cooking :bigsmile: much more light and much better modes.
I like it MUCH more like this 
i think i hardly used mine stock at all.
If you are thinking about upgrading it, stop thinking and buy the parts needed, it is absolutely worth it 
Only problem is……it is hard to stop when you get a taste for more lumens
Next stop, the triple XP-L V6 + Cute-3 upgrade :bigsmile:
I randomly decided to take a tailcap current on my X6 since it seems less bright than a lot of my other XM-L2 lights. Mine doesn’t even hit 2A with my DMM and a VTC5. Compare that to a 8*7135 Convoy S2+ I have that tops out at 2.75A with the same cell and DMM…
You just need a LD-1 to put in there. I can’t wait for those to go on sale again. I’ll upgrade my Convoy M2.
The 2 screw issue seems to have everyone’s attention. In all the lights I’ve gotten that had the 2 screws I found every time (about 15 times) that the screws were NOT holding the mcpcb down tight. In all the early 2 screw lights I saw they did not cut a relief for the head of the screw on the outer rim so the screw was forced to the side when snugged down. This caused it to bind and kept it from fully pressing into the mcpcb. I used to always cut that outside relief to allow the screws to tighten but figured out it’s not really a biggie because the reflector pushed down hard when the bezel is tightened. If you put a Noctigon in these and leave the white disc off, the reflector can easily scrape off the red masking material and cause a short. So, ultimately, the 2 screws are not there to hold the star down tight but only to keep it from rotating.
To clean a lens, I always use running water and dish soap. Wash your hands with dish soap first to remove oils from your fingers, then using your fingers lightly rub the lens on both sides with soapy water while holding it in the stream of water. This same process works to clean a reflector as well. The clean lens will bead water and it’s easy to simply blow off the beads that remain. With a reflector, it’s not quite as easy to blow off all the tiny beads but even if a few remain and leave a small water spot or two it’s almost always a LOT better than it was before. A hair dryer can do an excellent job of removing all the water from the reflector or lens, leaving it spotless. (Another great tip is to rinse the lens or reflector with purified or filtered water after using soapy tap water, this will help prevent spotting.)
Also, if you’re using a regulated driver like a 105c or Qlite and don’t see 3.04A with your DMM, you need to use different leads. The stock leads on most every DMM out there will not correctly read amperage like we use it. A couple of pieces of 12ga wire from household Romex works really well. Solid thick copper wires, doubled over on the end to enable a snug fit into the DMM, will give you a very accurate reading in almost all DMM’s.
And last, a good breakfast goes a long way towards helping you digest morning medications. :bigsmile:
Thanks Dale! :bigsmile:
so, i haven’t read much here lately, but it seems like there are more peole than me who has underdriven flashlights. like several others mine seem to pull 2.5A with thick wires to the dmm.
are we just accepting that it doesn’t live up to specs, or what am i supposed to do?
Mods have been discussed as well as the discrepancy. Between the time the specs were given and the time the lights were produced the LED manufacturer changed the die so that the forward voltage was increased, decreasing the current that can flow at a given voltage in. The driver is as agreed but the LED changed. Find a different driver or install the older LED. Seeing as how there was no written contract with the manufacturer or the seller we dealt with there is no remedy available and I bet that Cree has something in their specs about changes being made without prior notice unless contracted otherwise. With the LED change the Lumens output is at least close to what was agreed to as the new versions of the LED are more efficient than the old ones.
With any given battery the light as delivered should run longer due to the LED change so why worry if the current is lower as long as the lumens out is close? We know the cause and people have posted upgrades but you will get nothing from China or Kronological.
The driver will push the spec’d amps if you feed it enough voltage.
They did not take battery sag into account with the driver. Best you can do is do resistance mods to get as much voltage as possible to the battery.
Copper braid on the springs will help.
Well, if you missed the GB, now is your chance to get it for the GB price for about a day-and-a-half.
+ $1 for 4C tint.
(OP updated)
We already did Krono, we already did
Damn thats a good light
I don’t know if i missed it, but whenever i go to the page it shows $19,99 but when the page finish loading it changes to $24,99 :_(
When I click on the picture it does bring me to the 19.99 dollars page but that flips in an instant to 28.50....
Strange, if i use Chrome i first get $19,99 & then i switches to $28,50 but if i use Firefox, it shows $19,99 but when the page finish loading it changes to $24,99………i hope this is just a weird bug and i haven’t missed the sale.
same with me, it does the same thing.
Mine flips to $28.50 instantly.
Might be location dependent, $19.99 to the US, but when the site reads your location it displays the price for your location. 