I’m dreaming of a mode for this (unless what I want is already possible I just can’t figure out how), well two actually but one could be accomplished by the other. I want the opposite of the current white+red mode, so I can add white to predominantly red light. But I’d really like to see a mode where all 3 emitter levels can be adjusted against each other at once. This would probably need an extra input for the extra adjustment, so I’m thinking something like 3H for cool<->warm white and 4H for white<->red. I’d like to be able to add 5000k white to red, and add 2700k white to red, or anything in between. And/or the opposite, adding red to them. If this is already possible and I’m just getting confused by the new controls any help would be appreciated. I’d also be open to suggestions on how to do it, as if something like this doesn’t get enough traction to make it into the main build I’ll probably try and make something myself.
I don’t have it in the repository yet, but I have most of a HSV mode working. Hue, saturation, and value. Hue uses the “tint” value, saturation is 100%, and value uses the PWM level from the ramp. So it allows adjusting output to any blend of 2 channels, using just the current 2-dimensional “brightness + tint” controls. The user can rotate the hue around in a circle, while retaining Anduril’s regular brightness controls, and the way it works is pretty intuitive without having to manually balance individual levels for 3 channels.
On an actual RGB light, I would give it a ramp where 100% power is at maybe ramp level 120 or so… and anything above that turns down the saturation level, so at the very top it has all 3 channels at full power. This allows a RGB light to use saturated colors but also flash brighter toward white when they go above the maximum brightness for that color. I use this method on my lightsaber.
Anyway, this allows accessing most of the RGB or HSV color spaces… the main area omitted is low brightness with low saturation. But if you want low saturation (or rather, no saturation) on the lantern, there’s a separate white-only mode.
You’re amazing. This is exactly the mode I was actually wanting, but was having trouble explaining and thought it would be a bit much to ask for if it wasn’t already something a lot of people wanted. Also figured it would be too complex to attempt myself at my current skill level. Thank you for your work and response, looking forward to playing with the new features.
I haven’t written the “in a circle” part yet, so the tint ping-pongs between 0 and 255 instead of wrapping around. There’s a mechanism for adding custom 3H handlers, so it should be easy to add, but I haven’t actually tried it yet.
I also haven’t added the part about reducing saturation above 100% power, for full “300% power” turbo. At least, not on a torch. I only have that on my lightsaber, which uses 4 channels (RYGB). But it should be easy to adapt the code I wrote for it back in 2017. That’s what I did for the RGB support so far… took my RYGB code and removed the yellow channel.
The main thing holding back support for RGB lights right now is … I don’t actually have a RGB light. It hasn’t been a priority to build features for hardware which doesn’t exist yet, when I have so many older models to update.
If you could have an RGB LT1S Pro, what emitters would you want it to use? I already ordered an extra to make my own, but I’d never actually use it and sending it off to give you an RGB light for development seems like a small price to pay even if I wouldn’t get it back. I just want the thing to exist for some reason so if you’d want an RGB version to develop with let me know. The lantern itself would be at least a month out, I don’t have the emitters on hand and was thinking of ordering a custom MPCB for better emitter positioning/blending and the possibility of other footprints. And I’m still mostly in the hypothetical stage about it but I see no reason not to do it.
Edited because I said the same thing twice
I might have missed this earlier, but what’s the cut-off for getting an LT1S Pro with TK fw? Mine just shipped.
Mine just shipped too. wondering if fw updated ?
I don’t anyone here knows for sure unless @Barry0892 can chime in. However, he did say 8 days ago that 17 ones got shipped out with original firmware and anything after that should have updated firmware. I would think if yours just now shipped it, it likely has the newer firmware.
Hey all, just chiming in with observations from one of those early, early batch LT1S Pros…
It came without TK’s updated A2 so (with some very helpful tips from gchart - Thank You) I flashed it to the 04-19 version. This process was made quite simple and didn’t require any teardown with gchart’s flashing tool, the V3 model. The programmer fit easily down the battery tube and with minimal pressure via the USB-C cable, I was able to avoid “forking” things up and make solid contact. The update went as smoothly as it always has with the ZFlasher app on my Android.
The different multi-channel options in this version of A2 are interesting… I found 5 different options/modes via 3C while on which are adjusted via 3H, if they have that option:
“Normal” Manual Tint Ramping - the 2 white channels are manually adjusted with 3H and 1C adjusts brightness as we are familiar with on Hank’s dual-channel lights (I don’t know if this one MAY have it’s own “Auto-tint” option, I haven’t checked)
“Auto” Tint Ramping - 1C adjusts brightness and automatically goes warm at low & cool at max
“Auto Red, Warm, Cool Tint Ramping” - all 3 channels, Red at lowest brightness then progressing through warmer to cooler to coolest at max
“Red Only” - exactly what it sounds like, 1C adjusts brightness
“White with adjustable Red” - it seems to be an “Auto Tint Ramping” mode where changing brightness makes the light warmer when dimming & cooler when brightening with 3H ramping the amount of Red - it’s quite interesting.
They should REALLY do something about those battery indicator emitters on top, as others have said. Thankfully, taking the light apart is quite simple, as gchart posted, and applying a couple layers of Kapton tape to the bottom of the spacer/divider, as mentioned by TK, brings them down to a manageable level and makes a quite nice teal color.
I’ve been eyeballing one of these Sofirn lanterns for a while and I’m glad I waited. I prefer the LT1S form factor and really enjoy the 519a emitters in my other lights… This feels like a solid evolution for the product even if the emitter spacing doesn’t produce a perfectly even “beam” around the diffuser. I suspect there will be further refinements to the UI which is, thankfully, easy to update and will only make the lantern better!
EDITS: New to the forum, had to fix weird stuff.
Welcome to BLF and thanks for the recap on the new functionality.
I missed the first batch, but will be looking for one out of the next batch, for sure.
This mode uses your white balance from the white-only manual CCT mode, and 3H lets the user adjust the amount of red from 0 to 100%. The red percent is in relation to the white channels, so it’s not absolute; it scales with the ramp level.
Basically, it’s the manual white CCT mode… plus red. And the user can decide how much red to add. However, changing the white balance requires going to the manual white mode.
Anyway, the user can turn off extra color modes if there are any which aren’t used. Like, you could get rid of 3 and just keep your 2 favorites.
Ahh! That’s pretty neat! I wasn’t quite sure I had that right, thank you for the explanation. I definitely look forward to how this evolves… I also see in the text manual there are some other new changes lately - cool stuff!
You’ve made some very interesting changes with this multi-channel stuff! Of course, all the Anduril (and others!) stuff is great… I know you hear that a lot, but considering you’ve donated all this time and effort to the community, you deserve it!
Mine made it to my local Post Office today so I’ll be getting it tomorrow. 
My LT1S Pro arrived safe and sound today. Put in a battery and it worked fine out of the box. Haven’t attempted flashing it yet, but I’ll do that soon. What surprised me was how small it is. The pictures on the interwebz don’t do its size justice. This is not a knock on it, I think its great and puts out a lot of light for its size. For comparison, here it is next to an Emisar D4V2.
I ve got mine (early batch). It seems that i have a loose screw inside, the clacking is really annoying 
Probably one of the two holding the mcpcb down. You can disassemble it, it’s really easy.
VERY easy to disassemble… The collar holding the base-assembly to the battery tube isn’t hard to unscrew, especially if you have a snap-ring tool of sufficient size. The easy path is to remove the sticker covering it, remove the collar and you’re in:
(I cut out the section of the sticker which covers the collar because I had a couple little things I wanted to do and I’m still mulling dedoming the 2700k 519a’s)
Then the whole base-assembly is free… Remove the screw - make sure there are TWO holding the battery tube to the top-assembly - and put it all back together. Be careful about lining up the top of the diffuser with the o-ring - mine likes to pop out while tightening the collar for the bottom.
Thanks a lot for the tipps. I dissambled it and it was easy, as you said. The loose screw was one of the 3 at the bottom of the diffusor.
Now I only need to buy a flashing tool, get the new firmware and everything is perfect.
Again thanks everybody for your help!
Awesome! Glad that went smoothly…
I definitely recommend that flashing tool - since there’s no need to disassemble the light to reach the programming pads, it’s extremely easy to keep up with A2 updates as TK rolls them out.
If you’re in the US, I’d be glad to hook you up with an adapter - just send me a PM. If you’re outside the US, it’s probably more cost effective to check in with thefreeman.
Hey everyone,
Noob here and new to the forum 
I received my LT1S Pro yesterday, which I ordered after Sofirn’s message, thinking that it would arrive with the new firmware.
This lantern seems a little buggy (really rough tint ramping at lower brightness levels), and 3C from on only seems to switch between ramped and stepped rather than changing channel modes. 9H doesn’t enter channel mode config either.
Checking the version with 15C gives me 202209260623. This is the older firmware, right? Just wanted to make sure before I try to get my hands on an adapter. Although I should probably have one anyway given this new hobby of mine.