Hi all,
Can anyone say which budget holster can be used for this light, and if a better quality aa battery carrier is available to buy anywhere, and if yes to both, where said items can be purchased?
Thanks
Hi, I can take some pictures but physically switch looks and feels almost like any other switch except that it is performing very unreliable.
Sometimes flashlight doesn’t switch on immediately after clicking the switch but has a 1-2 seconds of lag, sometimes it doesn’t switch on at all.
Notice that the spring is not soldered, everything holds down just by tight press…
Thanks for your feedback and we have contact the suplier, the switch of XinTD X3 can only change with the original switch but not any other switch, which suplier has told us they can offer. For this design issue the suplier had surely received the feedback from you all here and they may improve the product in the future with your suggest.
There should be 2 mode groups, you didn’t maybe switch from 1 to the other?
When light is on low mode, wait til it blinks, then switch off and on again, and you should be in the other mode group.
If this doesn’t work, then maybe something has gone wrong with the driver.
Let us know how it goes, thanks
After the switch failure I was able to repair my unit by using two spare retaining rings and an old solarforce switch.
This combination allows the use of protected cell.
I hope this information will be helpful to somebody.
Ohh - totally forgot bout the tiny switch the X3 has. I just took apart my IOS X3 (1+ year old) to check, and it's the same exact orange switch as the new ones from BG. My old X3 and the two new ones have no probs with the switch. I just re-worked one of the new ones - added 22 AWG wire down the spring, soldered the spring to the tab of the switch, and treated all contact surfaces and threads with NO-OX-ID. Took a 30 sec reading in the light box, then swapped switch's with a totally stock one (from BG), and got the same exact lightbox measurements. At 2.8A and a fresh cell, you lose nothing. Actually the copper spring is better than most stock springs. Also note from the pics above, the orange switch seems to say "Omten" on it, so it's small but usually pretty decent quality.
I'm adding 3 350 7135's (3.85A total), changing the LED wires to 22 AWG silicone 200 C rated wire, and will add a 22 AWG wire down the driver spring, soldering it to the real driver spring as low as possible. I'm also adding a second solder joint from the contact board to the driver - I don't like only one solder point they have in there now. These connections from the contact board and the driver are not only for electrical connection, but for a thermal path as well.