Just standard safety glasses advertised to block UVA/B. Test it by putting them in front of an object known to fluoresce and see if it gets cancelled out
Heh decided not to cut the filter. I technically have 60mm of usable scrap filter. The Supfire only has a 55mm filter space.
Nice work ICSK. Congrats on a great UV light.
Would be great to see the same "beam" shot without the filter if it's not too much trouble.
The answer is “very ugly”. I need to switch to a reflector that sits closer to the LED. As it stands there’s about a 1-1.5mm gap between the LEDs and reflector. Same problem noticed below. Now I need to find out where one buys a SRK reflector.
What is wrong with Chibi M’s eyes?
" … of the varieties used in antiquity and known today, only succinite, or Baltic amber, is found in the large, relatively sturdy jewelry-grade pieces such as were used for the sizable objects of antiquity …"
http://museumcatalogues.getty.edu/amber/intro/5/
Seeing that this is your first post, Welcome to BLF
Any updates to this thread? Someone found the perfect UV light or got a big loot from the beach? 
Interesting read here.
The best wavelength for finding amber at night is around or just below 400nm. I'm still waiting for some of the parts for building the light. I'll update the original post in this thread when all the parts are here :-)
Hi Hestbech.
Hope you manage to get sorted with your UV light.
I visited Denmark as a child (Esbjerg and Legoland!!) many, many years ago.
About three years ago I went back there with my wife and my two teenage daughters and we stayed at Jegum Ferieland (not far from Esbjerg). We stayed for one week and visited loads of brilliant places and had one of the best holidays we’ve ever had. My daughters tell me it was actually their favourite holiday ever. They loved going for walks in the woods while I cooked dinner, seeing foxes and deer while they wandered.
I dearly love your wonderful country and hope to visit again there soon - maybe this time with three daughters (my youngest is just five months old!!)
Where do you do your amber gathering?
Regards,
SP
hi scrumpypaul.
I just got home frome dinner (the blue dot) at my mum:
As you can see, not far from Jegum :-)
I do my amber gathering not far from Esbjerg/Jegum. Here, at the red line:
Small world :-)
Small world indeed!!!
We visited Henne Strand while we were there and also a little further north - such beautiful beaches which seem to stretch forever. We picked up loads of pretty pebbles but alas no amber!!!
It was really bizarre going back to Denmark again in my mid-forties - I again visited LEGOLAND and it was quite surreal to recognise so much about it that I had seen a few decades earlier!!
Best regards,
Paul
Has anyone done any testing on this LED? https://www.kiwilighting.com/epileds-xml-8w-5050-uv-395nm-400nm-led-emitter-lamp-light-on-16mm-20mm-black-white-pcb-board
I burned up 2 so far, one at 2.8A and one at 2.6A. I hate throwing money away, going to 2A for now.
Did you use a DTP-ledboard, like a Sinkpad or Noctigon. That really helps cooling the led at higher currents.
I did a test on that led, and though the led of the test performed well, another led that I had worked less well, and some others had problems of dying leds too. Perhaps it is hit or miss with this led. The test is in this post (together with 3 otherUV-leds):
I ran it on the Cree XML PCB it came mounted to with Boron Nitride Heat Sink Paste to an aluminum pill in a Stainless Steel 18650 host with AMC7135*6 driver. I’m sure stainless isn’t a very good host for dissipating heat, but it only ran for 10 sec or so before I saw the current ramp up in my Fluke and poof. On another forum one member said he believed it was PWM that was destroying it, but I never seen this problem with Cree LED’s.
I swapped the XM-L2 T6-4C that came with my Convoy S2+ with 8*7135 Nanjg 105c driver for the Epileds 8W 400nm led on an aluminum board, without reflowing the led. The MD who supervised our rowing team always said he would rather see us collapse on the rowing machine than in the actual boat. On that line of thought I went on a cloudy afternoon to our local golf course. With the light set on max, looking for balls that went over the fence. Because (white) golf balls glow under UV light. In half an hour I collected some balls, and a lot of attention, so I stopped. The light was on max all of the time, and did not falter a single second. Just now, I recorded 2.72A at the tailcap. So I must have one of the good ones.
I've got it running at 1.52A now, it seems like it's happy. I'll update you if I have any problems.
How did you build this? Would you be kind to share a small guide? I seek for amber and I think the 8W UV LED is pretty cool and would do a good job.
Cheers!
/Jens
Reading all these posts of fried UV-leds I got a bit curious and bought another led. This time on a 20 mm copper MCPB. I put it in my new Jaxman M8 (mini-C8). That light was quite underdriven with an XP-L HI led and a 6*7135AMC driver, firmly soldered to the removable pill. I repeated my walking-the-dog tour around the golf course with this light. All the time on max, I never switched it off. Just put it in my coat pocket when the attention became a bit too intens. The light and the led survived and just now I recorded 2.05A at the tailcap (with a clamp meter).
BTW, I flattened the MCPB on a whetstone and added a bit of thermal paste before screwing it to the pill.