Or wire guage to control current. Too thin a guage will act as a fuse. Some pcb’s seem to use meandering traces in this fashion.
Although this driver is intended for multiple LED in an SRK, what do you guess would happen if used for a single emitter? would 2300mah multiply by three and give something like 6.5-7Ah? or would it just not work at all with a single emitter?
That driver looks familiar:
…from my Ultrafire 1226
It’s been a while. I know I replaced the factory emitter PCB with a Maxtoch copper DTP board from Mountain and replaced the LB emitter with a good XM-L2. IIRC, I just moved the LED+ wire to one of the pads behind the bank of resistors. Due to the design of the light, I never checked the tailcap current to see what it pulls, but I’ve never had any issues with overheating or burning out.
The earlier Ultrafire 1226 lights had a good multiple-7135 based driver. I wish those were available separately so I could replace the driver in mine…
Will this driver even fit in the ~3mm cavity you are working within?
2300mah should not cook anything.
Great question and now that I think about it, doubtful. Cheap though, so I might try it and then use it for something else if it doesn’t work out. Any speculation on what the current would be with a single emitter? Still just 2300mah or would it go up since the driver is intended for 3 XMLs? It says the input is 3.7-4.2, but we know fastech’s descriptions aren’t always correct, but based on that voltage it would have to be putting out the current for XML’s in parallel?
Oh, this review kind of answers my question: https://www.fasttech.com/reviews/5288600/500251
I doubt it will fit in the small space though :( so maybe I'll try it in another soup-can style light if I can figure out how to get a better thermal path to the LED with that high current
Thanks! yeah they look identical to me. Did the output seem to go up to somewhere near a direct drive level when you bypassed those resistors by moving the +led lead? Or just up a little bit? Any chance you got a current reading while you were modding it? A couple more questions: I see mentioned in that thread that the 9435 is a mosfet. Im googling what that is right now, because I know nothing, but would adding additional 9435’s in those empty spaces have any positive effect? Any speculation on why there are spots for 4 of them? Also, I hate lights that have strobe that isn’t hidden, but I know that’s just what you get with most budget lights. That single yellowish-tan thing looks like a capacitor, is that likely to yield the same results of removing next mode memory with the graphite pencil trick? https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/26205
This has helped a ton, thanks for everybody's input