Help me with my first p60 project

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

First, I got to say I´m a total noob. I got some Sipik SK68, UF-2100 and a XIAOZHI CREE XM-L T6 ( link ), and a cheapo crappy XML from DX. I want to start my first DIY project and p60 seems the way to go. I´ve disassembled each light more than one time and I´ve installed the XML + driver from the cheapo light into a SK68 and gained first soldering experience. That was fun and I want to start a p60 project, basically a nice clean Solarforce build.

Solarforce host
I like the Solarforce L2P design and the grey one would be a nice colour variation to my collection. My only fear is that there are not many matching parts matching the grey version. Am I missing something or are grey parts really rare. I mean, just in case I want to change something later. Is 19 USD ok for this body? I really want it to be matte, not glossy.

I´d like to change the front bezel, maybe I´ll order a black one from the SF site. Plus, I´d like to have a basic silver one. I won´t order it separately, but maybe get this instead and take it from here. Or is there a better/cheaper source for a clean bezel.

With the Ultrafire host, I want to get another build. So right now, it´s the SF host, a black bezel ring and the UF host. Then I need drivers, LEDs and reflectors, right? Do I need extra cables or are they already attached to the…umm, anything?

I have no idea what drivers, reflectors and LEDs to choose. All I can say is:

- I don´t want a thrower. I want and even flood/throw beam pattern. The XIAOZHI or UF-2100 do a nice job. Somethink like that would be nice.

- the second build with the Ultrafire host could be a bit different. Not sure what I want, but I think it may be boring to have the same beam from the solarforce and the Ultrafire. Any suggestions?

  • I want 3 modes. High as high as I can get, a nice, usable mid and a low.

This is a beam pattern I´d love (I made this in photoshop)

The Solarforce host has a forward clicky. Can I switch through modes with a forward clicky? If not, can i take the swith from the Ultrafire host OR which switch should I order?

So, I need to get confirmed it will work so far and I need advice on ordering the missing parts.
Did I miss anything?

2

One quick question, can you solder?

3

I think so : |

4

Ok, here my suggestions are which should give you a beam similar to what you want.

First buy these items

https://illuminationsupply.com/p60-dropin-empty-choice-of-op-or-smo-p-40.html (Choose OP)

https://illuminationsupply.com/cree-xml-16mm-round-mcpcb-u2-1a-tint-p-186.html

https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc7135-304a-selectable-mode-driver-p-142.html

https://illuminationsupply.com/20-awg-teflon-wire-blue-p-256.html

https://illuminationsupply.com/arctic-alumina-adhesive-5g-set-p-109.html

Then you take a 1 inch piece of the wire with both ends stripped and solder the wires onto the LED star. Then place the LED on the pill with a very thin layer of AA underneath it.

Then take the driver, place a solder blob between the 3rd star and the outer ring. This will set it to 3 modes: 5%, 30%, 100%.

Solder the wires coming from the LED onto the driver in the correct spot. (+ to + and - to -).

Then take the driver and carefully push it into the pill while twisting it to coil the wires. Place a solder blob connecting the ring of the driver to the brass pill.

Solder the small conical spring to the center of the driver.

Place the large spring on the base of the brass pill.

Then screw on the reflector and you're done.

5

I tried using an OP reflector on a spare XM-L p60 pill I had, and it created one heckova nice looking beam. The transition from spot to spill is not quite as smooth as the image you linked and the hotspot is huge, but it is by far the most pleasant beam pattern I have seen from a p60 light. It gets out-thrown by pretty much everything though :~

6

Wow, that´s ~50 USD. Is this the high end version of the parts? To be honest, I didn´t check all the parts before my initial post, but I hoped to get the final light for ~30USD.
Any chance?

7

You have to consider you get extra good wire and thermal adhesive in the “toolbox”.

I have never built one. But personally, for a budget build. I have considered these parts (or warmer led)
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001906/1136804-cree-xm-l-t6-3c-5000k-white-led-emitter-with-16mm- 4,51$ LED
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001683/1122302-8-amc7135-4-group-25-modes-led-flashlight-driver-c 3,76$ Driver (2,8A and nice modes options)
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1605/10002800/1208507-empty-aluminum-smooth-drop-in-module-for-cree-xm-l 2,31$ Empty drop-in (Double check with fasttech that this comes with the small spring to the battery and that they now pack it well if you buy it. Or just buy the option below with OP reflector. OP is probably better for the beam you described)
Total for main parts: 10,58$

Alternative drop-in module with the small spring but without the thing to center LED and a board/paper that protects you from short circuiting the led when attaching reflector… (those things can be bought separately in larger packages)
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1605/10002206/1159000 1,99$ (Choose OP reflector for your preferred beam)

Adhesive (lots of it! Can be used for many many builds!):
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10000468/1049304-fujik-heatsink-silicone-thermal-glue-50ml 6,15$
(not as good heat transfer as the very good stuff Scaru linked to. It should be easy to use. I believe it should make it easier to remove driver if you plan to upgrade in the future. Should also make it easy to center driver as far as I have read.)

Total cost including shipping, 16,73$ (10,58 + 6,15)

8

The cheapest way would be simply buying a premade one. E.g. http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10000508/1067701-ultrafire-xm-l-t6-700lm-white-light-led-1-mode-mem

9

Thanks guys. I don´t NEED do DIM (do it mysefl ), it´s more about a Solarforce L2p grey with the best/brightest beam I can get, maybe a black bezel ring and all this for a good price.
Are the premade dropins ok? Is there a nice one with 3 modes and a pattern similar to my sketch?

10

I updated my previous post a little. If you want a good drop-in with a good driver and want to do it yourself I would recommend to buy those parts.
A good alternative P60 drop-in would be about the same price. http://www.intl-outdoor.com/xml-p60-dropin-module-alxm-p-656.html?zenid=2ki1ifuu1c7m0e4b2mm0hdf4n6
But that uses almost the same parts as the one you can build yourselves. So if you want to do the build from scratch. And you want to have extra thermal glue for future builds then the choice is easy.

As for L2P in grey.
Yes, most solarforce parts are black/dark (HAIII/HAII finish). So the only parts you interchange with good looks are front bezel, and maybe add belt clip thingy. I thing the grey L2P looks very nice and clean as it is.

11

Hm, I like that complete option in your last post. Didn´t know there´s something like that low voltage option. That´s very cool.
But only 1 minute on high?

U3, 3 modes an OP should work fine, correct?

edit: how about switching modes witch forward vs reverse clicky?

12

[quote=MrCG] I need advice [/quote]

[quote=scaru]

Ok, here my suggestions are which should give you a beam similar to what you want.

First buy these items

https://illuminationsupply.com/p60-dropin-empty-choice-of-op-or-smo-p-40.html (Choose OP)

https://illuminationsupply.com/cree-xml-16mm-round-mcpcb-u2-1a-tint-p-186.html

https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc7135-304a-selectable-mode-driver-p-142.html

https://illuminationsupply.com/20-awg-teflon-wire-blue-p-256.html

https://illuminationsupply.com/arctic-alumina-adhesive-5g-set-p-109.html

Then you take a 1 inch piece of the wire with both ends stripped and solder the wires onto the LED star. Then place the LED on the pill with a very thin layer of AA underneath it.

Then take the driver, place a solder blob between the 3rd star and the outer ring. This will set it to 3 modes: 5%, 30%, 100%.

Solder the wires coming from the LED onto the driver in the correct spot. (+ to + and - to -).

Then take the driver and carefully push it into the pill while twisting it to coil the wires. Place a solder blob connecting the ring of the driver to the brass pill.

Solder the small conical spring to the center of the driver.

Place the large spring on the base of the brass pill.

Then screw on the reflector and you're done.

[/quote]

Take it with a grain of salt.

13

Thanks Rojos, you're a real dick. Just because I suck at soldering doesn't mean I can't recommend good supplies. I challenge you to find one thing wrong with those supplies.

14

Oh no you didn’t!

:stuck_out_tongue:

15

Low voltage option?

If you use a typical solarforce you can have it tailstanding for about 12-13 min before it reaches 60 degree Celsius indoors on the head/led (140F). If you hand hold it you can use it longer since heats gets into your hand. If you are out in the in very low temperature, walking and hand holding it you can use it as long as you want if it does not get uncomfortable. But generally, if it gets really hot, just take it down to medium. No problem with heat in that mode.
If you build one yourselves you can choose a driver with lower ampere than 2.8A. 2,8A is considered high for a P60 light, but I like to have that option on high. Most random drop-ins run on lower than 2.8A, which is safer.

Reverse vs forward clicky are a personal preference question. I prefer reverse when having several modes. Got my L2T not long ago with forward. Hated it first day. But already starting to like it, and I have only had the light for a week. It depends a little on how you use your light too.
If you have the stock tailcap on the L2P, you have the option to buy the other type of switch without changing out the whole tailcap.

If you have questions about tints, bins etc… check the links in Scarus signature.

(Last post for me here today. Other people will probably answer your questions if you have more)

16

Low voltage warning- that´s what I meant.

Thanks again guys. Much info for me : )

17

Oh… yeah…
Same thing with the DIY part I linked too.

Have fun deciding what you want to buy! :slight_smile:

Seriously… last post… :stuck_out_tongue:

18

I think I´m ready to order from the Solarforce website. Does this shop have a similar (or the same) dropin like the one RacerR86 suggested?

edit: I order from the linked Shop.

Maaaaan, I´m so excited!

19

For what it’s worth, the latest SolarForce L2M comes with an excellent flat bezel out of the factory. If you’re not dead set on the grey L2P, it might be worth considering an L2M considering that it’ll shave a couple of dollars off your total bill. It doesn’t have HA III though.

20

I´ve read about increasing heat transmission.
How´s that done and is it worth it? Or should I just throw the dropin into the host and be happy?

Maybe there are some pictured tutorials or something. That´d be great.