I've had this Lux-pro flashlight for awhile that I bought from Lowes. I really like it and have been wondering if I can upgrade the driver to use 14500 cells. It has a XP-G3 S2 in it now and would like to change that as well unless I shouldn't or don't have to. I have been learning a lot but am still learning. It uses a 16mm PCB and driver inside an aluminum pill. I have also been looking for a place to buy a forward clicky switch for it. I have seen a 16mm forward clicky on Omtens website but haven't found a place to buy one yet. Thanks for any help guys!
I have done a few mods on less than stellar 2xAA lights. The problems you will run into… You will need to find a suitable buck driver for a 3V led, so a 2S 3V driver. The switch will have to go, or likely you will melt it down. I have had good luck spacing in an Omten 1288 with trimmed nylon washers, the retaining ring you have may be good enough work, but it will not be metal and will not be able to conduct to the contact ring on the switch. The MCPCB looks pretty straight forward as does the driver retaining ring. You may have to open up the driver retaining ring to allow for back side components based on your driver selection. I assume that you do not have a good selection of mod parts yet, some left over parts may solve the switch retaining ring problem in brass, but would have to be the right thread.
I am putting an order together now of some parts and a couple KD lights. I love to tinker and figured this would be something I could tinker on and if it goes wrong I wont be too upset. Could I take apart a P60 drop in and use the driver/LED from that and transplant them into my light? Seems that would work to me but I am probably missing something?
See the following… the ground ring is on the spring side of the switch board, so the path is through the spring, switch and then the ground ring to the body. Thus needing a metal retainer ring for the switch.
Yes, you could use parts from other lights, P60’s use a 17mm driver and 16mm MCPCB. A good copper MCPCB may be thicker than the stock one and may need to be thinned down to properly reassemble the light. The lack of solder on the legs of the switch will add a lot of resistance to the path, resistance = heat = dead switch.
If I were you, I would figure out the switch problem first. What diameter is the ring that screws in and holds the switch in place? KaiDomain has many different retention rings in stock as does Fasttech.
If you are going to jump right into modding, post here and folks may make you a great deal on mod parts they do not use of have to many of. That stuff is gold if you do odd lights.
I thought the switch grounded with an outer ring thanks for confirmation. I couldn't see it in the picture so wasn't sure if there was another way I wasn't familiar with. The retention ring in my tail cap measures 11/16" or 18mm. My best guess is that it is somewhere between M18x0.75 and M18x1.25.
It’s a lot of work if the host is cheaply made. It would be easier if you just buy an inexpensive host from Convoy or Kaidomain since in the end you will either be paying more or spending a lot of time to mod the cheapo flashlight.
But I’m not saying you shouldn’t do it since I’ve found a lot of satisfaction turning these flashlights into something good.
What is hideous about the XP-G3? I have seen it without the lens on and haven't noticed a difference in color. Looks like a 6500K bright white to me but I'm a noob.
Well it seems I should leave it alone and wait for my hosts to arrive from China.
