Most ICs that do not integrate mosfets can do a lot of current if needed (depending on the design and mosfet) but still the voltage output range can be limited very much under the input voltage. Usually if you see an inductor there's some sort of bucking or boosting is going on.
I just installed that 7A driver in a FF STL-V2 with triple XM-L2 wired in parallel. With two fully charged NCR18650B protected, I’m getting a rock solid 8A at the tail.
I already killed one 7A driver. Now it just kills any LED it’s hooked up to without even producing light. I don’t know what I did to it, but it must of been bad.
i might have to pick up one of those drivers
Just modded a MaxToch SN6X-2X throw driver - added an R100 and R120 resistor to an existing single R056. It's a 2 cell series, 1 LED thrower light. Calculated amps to the LED (not measured) is 7.29A, based on the stock measurement of 3.6A to the LED with the one R056, and measured 5.5A to the LED with adding an R100. So for the 2S cells, the tailcap reading varied with cells from 4.55A to 4.9A.
This MaxToch driver seems very robust to be able to handle resistor modding for boosting LED amps from 3.6A to 7.3A. So far it's stable, still all 3 modes are working fine. Have more testing to do though.
I know the LCK FL-2 works fine with two cells, and was wondering if anyone has tried three cells.
It says 5.2 - 12V, and three cells are 12.6V, so would three cells harm it?
I found this thread while trying to find info on using the CNQ DRY driver (http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1349) with an XM-L2 and 2 Li-ion batteries.
I just tried this driver in an A8 clone (as host), with an XM-L T6 on Noctigon, and surprisingly, it seems to work, and I measured ~4.4 amps tailcap current. That was with 2 x Kinoko 18350 batteries.
I’m planning to try a 2 x 18650 host so that I can try 18650s instead of 18350s, as I think that I can probably get currents higher than 4.4 amps with some “good” 18650s (I have some PDs and some Efests).
This is the same driver as the IOS 4.5A driver I believe, so that's what I used for the Shockers - 3 cells, 3 LED's.
Thanks for that. I wasn’t sure if you could run the 4.5A driver with series emitters. I noticed the 5A driver at LCK now states multi emitter capabilities. It didn’t use to. The same driver on the LCK eBay site doesn’t mention this.
I’m always on the lookout for a three cell soupcan light.
Hi,
I wanted to let you all know to be careful with this one :(… I was out the other night with this light, and accidentally wasn’t paying attention and left it on turbo mode for too long (> 2 minutes) and it blinked off. After that, it’d come on in high (or turbo, not sure) only. I’m not sure if it ever stepped down.
Anyway, when I opened the light to check it, there was a “burnt” odor (you all know the one), and I eventually took the driver apart to look at it.
I noticed some black “blobs” hear the heatsink of the FET on the larger board, and when I pulled the driver apart, it looked like the whole heatsink part of the FET was blackened/burnt.
So be careful with this one!!
FYI, I put another, new DRY driver in the same light and it’s pulling > 4.6 amps at the tailcap with 2x18350s. I need to figure out how to improve the cooling on that FET?
Thanks for the feedback ohaya. So do you mean it was the FET which fails?
I had a DRY before and I used to turn it on on Turbo mode for about 10 minutes long continuously (I had the version without step down, but it doesn’t available anymore) without having any issue except that the host was too hot to hold, but the DRY is 3 cells + 3 LEDs, in your case you are using it as a buck driver, so I don’t know if that could be the difference though.
I should have been clearer.
The “DRY driver” I have, and which I used, is apparently the “old” DRY driver:
It looks like the current/new “DRY driver” that CNQ has has a toroid, instead of the two chips on the top board, and has a 32mm contact board, vs. a 23mm contact board in the older DRY driver (which is what I used).
I don’t have any of the “new” DRY drivers, so I don’t know how it’d work with a single XM-L.
Oh man, since when they enlarge the DRY driver into 32mm? What are they gonna use it for? I thought I already have the newer version of DRY driver ordered in October of last year!
Hi all
i just wanted to share this Driver like Ouchyfoot posted but it is 9A
and i have a question about it can this driver drive MT-G2 with 2 cells or 3 ?
The picture is the exact same as my driver, but mine says 3v to 18v. This driver also says, 5 to 9A. Which is it? Is it a surprise?
Thanks for adding the link. Its a good price.
It will work with MT-G2, using 2 or 3 cells.
Its also the same as I linked to in OP ("Ebay SST90 driver), which is basically the same as the lustefire triple I have mentioned several times. There might be small variations on these drivers, but they all seem to do pretty much the same. People seem to have measured 7A 7,6A or 9A based on what I can remember (not sure if 9A were output though).
INPUT current. The input will vary with the input voltage/number of cells to get the same output. They don't mention the output, which is the part that matters.
And that is the part that is normally around 7A to 7,6A it seems. Which can easily be adjusted up or down with a resistor. :party:
16v@5A to get 4v@7A? Yikes. Better carry a fire extinguisher.
Chinese 80W input to get xxxxx amount of chinese lumens. Common knowledge. :steve: