I just bought two of these...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Direct-drive-high-driver-circuit-board-for-Cree-XML-XM-L2-SSCP7-SST-90-LED-/171244724523?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
Direct Drive...Med...Low ...Strobe and SOS Meh for strobe and SOS, but I like the direct drive.
I'm going the route of Tivo's Z8 based East-092 DIY driver -- Best of Both worlds - direct drive and regulated lower modes. Hopefully will get one working in the next few days.
I'm really close to testing the first Z8 board - all assembled, but can't get the IDE to talk to the USB dongle....
Nice find on the 92. Its to bad they are so expensive. Have you had a chance to test them yet for current output?
They are enroute via USPS parcel post. The seller is in Texas, so I might have them by Saturday.
yes, seller sent me the wrong drivers. I got a full refund. Problem was solved quickly and nicely so I can recommend the seller. Its all good! :)
2 cells combined with a buck driver is not enough to drive an MT-G2 properly regulated at high amps.
I would go with 3 cells and resistor mod if you want higher than the 6,9A you measured.
Im not sure if the driver will handle/survice to be used with 4 cells.. And if it is, I im not so sure that will increase the amps. Feel free to try it an report back in this thread.
Where is the best place to get one of these drivers? Anywhere in the U.S.?
Ken
Just did a 5 minute run with a HX-1175B driving MT-G2 with 3 KK ICR's. The driver has the 2 FET's replaced by Comfy's 70N02's and 2 R100 resistors added to the existing stock R062's. The driver is from a UF-T90 (The long light with SST-90 from Wallbuys). The cells were down a little (4.12 volts resting) from several short runs last night. The emitter was getting 10.7 amps (down from 11.3 last night). I don't know if the current was down to changing the set up or from lower cells.
The driver was loose and not heat sinked. At the end of 5 minutes, it was at 203 degrees F (95 C). The heat appeared to be generated mostly by the voltage sense resistor bank. The MT-G2 lux remained unchanged through the test. Temperature of the head was 170 F (77 C) at the end of the test. The head is heavily heat sink modded. Current was down into the 9's at the end of the test, but I don't remember the first decimal.
I think this indicates the driver might be able to handle driving an MT-G2 around 11 amps (Maybe more?) with 3S cells, but I the driver should be well connected to the heat sink. I'd like to get some more of these drivers. Anyone aware of a source?
Bucket wrote:Thanks.
What values have you stacked on top and what amps did you get?
Mine was getting 6.7 amps stock with 3S cells. I didn't have the best set up. So actual maybe slightly higher. When I changed the FET's to Comfy's 70N02's, current didn't change. When I added one R100 (1206 size), Current went up to just over 9 amps. When I added another R100, current when up to 11.3 amps.
Buck drivers usually won't be affected much if at all by a good/bad FET, just due to the circuit there's plenty of voltage overhead to easily make up for any resistance in the FET. But in low voltage/single cell setups it is crucial.
I went with your FET because Relic was reporting heat issues with his T90. He put a heatsink on his FET's. I figured your lower resistance FET would generate less heat.
This is just a simple dumb direct drive driver with a limiting resistor, it handles 8.4v & a MTG2 just fine with no mods. The resistor can be changed or eliminated to adjust the current.
It's the stock TR-801 driver but there are many many similar cheap drivers with the same basic design.
Thanks for the tip Comfy. Any idea on total current capacity and if it can handle 3S?
Update:
After the driver cooled down, I turned it on again in order to pinpoint where the heat is coming from. I'm pretty certain its the voltage sense resistors. The large capacitor next to them seemed to be the source as first, but I think that it because it is much taller and was the first thing my finger touched. I had to press the capacitor into my finger in order to reach the resistors. Since I can't easily heat sink them with metal (will short the bank), I'm going to try my potting recipe on this T90. I'll put a copper plate that reaches the pill sides over the potting compound.
No-go on 3S, at least not with a single MTG2. Even if the MCU would tolerate it (I doubt it), the LED wouldn't. It's not a buck driver, it basically the same thing as the BLF-15DD, same little SOT-23 FET and all.
And... you got me all confused, I was thinking this was the MTG2 driver thread, just noticed it's the other one, oops. :8)
LOL. You're right. I saw this driver in the OP and RaceR86's bad luck trying to acquire more of them. I should have posted to MRsDNF's thread. Thanks Comfy.
No problems.. Nice to get info about what the driver are capable of...
Lets cross fingers XM-L3 (or whatever replacement we will use for XM-L2s) does not have as weak bond wires so we can start pushing those "smaller" emitters to 10A..
XM-L3 at a constant 10A. Yes please! 
Wonder if the good folks at Cree read BLF? Hope so, or at least here’s to R&D being on top of the game…
Asked this vendor if these drivers are for sure HX-1175b’s and not HX-1175C’s. He said they are the “b’s”. Placed an order. Crossing my fingers.
This vendor?? Did you forget to add link?
I have ordered a pair HX-1175B from this Ebay seller. Ill report back when they arrive. 11,5$ a piece.
Sorry about forgetting the link. The vendor is led-world2007. Here is what I ordered.
That one you linked to sent me HX-1175C’s. He told he he could not get “b”’s because the manufacture does not make them any more. After I escalated and was refunded, he sent me a message saying he had “b”’s and could sell me some. I passed. Best of luck. Hope you get the “b”’s. By the way, that is the same vendor you purchased from earlier, just a different account name.