RaceR86 - sorry didn't get back here - yes, from what I understand the bigger inductors are part of the circuit design for handling more power - amps.
Damn - the more I think bout it, the more I like that LM deal for the 5 pack - I bet the 5A version is with the bigger inductor pictured on the left, while the one on the right is the 3A version... I've been paying $12+ for the IOS one, bout double the price..... ugh
Some time back I tried to increase the output of the 5A IOS/LCK-LED/Lightmalls driver. But with my very limited testing, it did not seem like it wanted to go much beyond 5,2A (output actually got lower if I tried to increase a bit more) I decided to leave it stock. If others have tried to resistor mod these to more than 5A, please share.. :)
I have updated OP a little bit. Added the TR-3T6 driver.
I just installed an IOS 4.5A Driver in a Ultrafire F10 running 2 x NCR18650A and got 2.6A (5.2A) at the tail, and 4.52A at the emitter. (XM-L2). I’m impressed. A driver that does what it says it can do.
EDIT:Additional- this is a buck driver and needs two cells to run an XML-L2. Will also run on three cells.
Awesome, that is the driver I had in my sights for my DST mod. Though I would rather have a low enough voltage to run C’s or a single 18650/26650, but that isn’t a huge issue.
OT: Does IOS get scheduled shipments, or is it just random when they restock items? Been waiting a while for my noctigon emitter to restock.
Lightmall So how about the lightmalls 17mm 5a 3 mode driver? If the specs are credible then this appears useable on a P-60… Has anyone tried this version? Also if I wired the LED’s in parallel would this driver work on a triple XPG?
Those look suspiciously like the junk left over from a failed attempt at flagrant deception by lightmalls. Of the two samples I tested with 3 x 18650 in parallel (4.20V), dedomed XM-L2 on sinkpad, 18ga wire, I get about 3.3A to the emitter. Lowest setting barley illuminated the LED so its completely useless. Mode changes requires very fast half-click button presses to get it to change. Extremely poor regulation where amps began to plummet around 4.05V.
Should work with a triple xpg if wired parallel. The driver appears to be a buck or just direct drive when the supply voltage drops below the vf of the led at 5amps. Notice what it says “Constant current output when the voltage is higher than the LED VF value”. Wouldn’t be much different if you just used direct drive, like the east 92 driver with a single 4.2v cell.
If you used a XM-L2 on a copper sink pad at 5 amps the vf would be around 3.75v. Emitter Test Results pt4: XML2, XP-E2, XP-G2, and Nichia219! (along with sinkpad tests)
If you used a Panasonic 3400mah or a sanyo 2600mah the voltage would sag below the vf of the led at 5 amps in under a minute. Then it would be basically direct drive after that point. Battery test-review 18650 comparator
A 18650 IMR wouldn’t even be able to sustain 5 amps for very long. A XM-l on copper will stay in regulation longer, maybe around 10 minutes at 5 amps, just a guess.
Thanks Flashpilot and 007. Good information. Sounds like you guys think the 92 River driver is much better and I need to shop for some batteries. Thanks again for the info and links.
I bought a few from LCK LED a while back, ordered the 5a version. They came with large torroids, went to use one on the weekend, only put out 3a @ emmitter bench testing. It had 2 r200 sense resistors, so I added 2 r100 & it showed 7.something amps briefly before the xml popped. Removed an r100, & it tested @ 5a.
So, FMC, pretend I know mostly nothing about chips and components how do I identify those little buggers and do the same thing you did? I can solder passably but the identification of the components… I fall short.
Nanjg and stacking 7135’s is doable… It’s a bummer the Lightmall’s driver isn’t any good is a downer. I would like to put together a P-60 sized light pushing an XML at 5 amps on high preferably without stacking 7135’s. Any suggestions?
Yep any 7135 based driver can deal with having more chips stacked on top, they’re all running in parallel. The only real limit ends up being in terms of heatsinking since linear regulators burn off excess voltage to do their regulation. It’s best to look at them like a smart variable resistor that can also be turned off and on rapidly (via PWM) for lower modes.
They can get quite hot when regulating on a freshly charged battery, and the more you stack the more heat you need to get off that tiny 17mm board.
Stacking is probably going to be the best way to get 5A in a p60 from a single cell. It’s not too hard once you get some practice in.
Or you could look at something like that East 092 direct drive driver mentioned earlier in the thread, if you can still find a good one at least.
Ok, that was what I thought regarding 7135 stacking. The East 92 is a crapshoot right? Could get a good one or a bad one but won’t know until you hook it up?
I honestly wouldn’t know, I only have one working one left sitting here from my HD2010s. But the ones I’ve seen have all been direct drive on high.
Haven’t ever had the urge to order any more so I wasn’t aware of there being bad batches till reading it here. It’s an ok DD driver without PWM flicker, but the blinkies got on my nerves!
I find it preferable to just stack 7135s until it’s basically direct drive but I know it can be a pain.
I would imagine there’s probably quite a few out there going unused maybe ask in the WTB if anyone has a spare they’d be willing to send you.
5 amps is hard to achieve with a XML2 in a single cell light. You would need a buck boost driver to sustain regulation, that doesn’t exist with that current output. You are basically running direct drive after the first minute unless you use a IMR cell and even then it may only extend regulation for 10 minutes or so. If driver modes with 5 amps direct drive is what you are after then use a amc7135 driver with 15 total amc7135’s. No matter which single cell driver you use, your not going to get much more than 5 amps at the led for any length of time. Use 2 li-ions and a buck driver and its a whole different ball game.