I got target fixation. Focused on the amps and did not notice all the silly blinkies. Thanks for pointing that out! My biggest dislikes in lights PWM and blinkie modes or more than 3 modes. The search goes on…
007 what would you suggest. I’m after a small form factor, 2 18350 IMR’s or maybe even 3 of them in a Solarforce L2M, a copper P-60 and which driver? They all seem to be greater than 20 mm in diameter. Thanks for all the input guys. I feel like the more I learn just shows me how very much more I don’t know.
This is about it as far as I know that might be small enough to fit. Sense resistor mod to KD Super Output P7 Driver
Its 19mm diameter, I have no idea if it will fit a P60 pill, may need some lathe work. I’am sure someone here has tried it though.
The KD driver with 2 li-ions will give you regulation through out the run time but not at 5 amps. You could do the resistor mod to gain more than stock.
If you run a single cell with a 15-amc7135 driver, you should hit 5 amps for a minute or so but it will reduce in output gradually until the battery is depleted. The main problem with the P60 is the size of driver that it will except and the heat it can get rid of. If there was enough space for a bigger driver you would have several more options. The P60 may not be able to cope with the heat from over driving a XML2 for any length of time either. Just trying to help in weighing your options and what to expect.
Thank you very much, will attack the L2M with a micrometer now. 
You’ll find it’s trade-offs all over the place with flashlight modding 
If it were me wanting to make a crazy bright 5A p60 I’d go the simple route, 7135s and a solid IMR cell and enjoy the fun while it lasts. The host will heat up to silly levels really fast anyway so personally I wouldn’t worry too much about extended regulation at that level of output. You’ll probably lose more lumens through heat sag in that period than from battery depletion.
But if you do build one using that driver linked by 007, boosted to over 3A and powered by 2 18350s I’ll be keen to see the results!
Good luck.
I recieved my five pack of Lightmalls 3 mode 5A drivers. I haven’t tested them, but this is what they look like.
Ohhh, crap. The small toroid. I was really thinking the 5A version would have the big toroid pictured, as RaceR86 said, oh boy...
I guess we’ll have to see how they actually perform. It is strange that they show both versions on the product page.
I have one of the small toroid one’s (from LCK LED) that is running at 5 amps - used it with an MT-G2, XML, & now it’s running an XPG2 - no problems so far, & easier fit into some of the smaller driver cavities.
Of the $60 of drivers I got from Lightmalls, none of them resemble what I ordered. I have no clue what I have. My first order from this site. Are they always totally unreliable?
I don’t see any small toroid 5A drivers at LCK?
I just logged into my account over there to pull up the order history - there was no SKU, just the description; “21.6mm CC 5000mA LED Driver 3 Modes 5.2-12V, SST-50”.
I got it back in May this year.
This one lck-led.com - Informationen zum Thema lck led.
I’am Pretty sure there is a lot of various drivers out there that is based off this same design. The higher current drivers do have the larger toroid. I used the driver linked above in a defiant super thrower, it did give 5 amps to the led using 2 li-ions.
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This also seems to be based off this same design, but can’t seem to cope with much higher current. 2 Li-ion 3 amp Driver Super Output Current Mod "Now with Larger Toroid driving a MT-G2"
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It looks to be the same driver as the KD super output driver. But I don’t see the FET in the pics at KD, which it may have the FET but they haven’t updated the pics. http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S005296
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HKJ also tested a driver that seems to be very similar to this design.
Review/Test of XM-L Multi-cell Circuit Board, 3A, 5.5-12.6V
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They all appear to be some what the same to me, but I don’t actually have them all in hand to be sure. Maybe there is differences that I can’t see.
In this post that I posted around 12 hours ago I assumed the LM version used the large toroid too (now edited slightly with details on sources) because my 3,5A from IOS and 5A form LCK-LED both had the large toroid. As seen in the post that ouchyfoot quoted me on I wondered if 3A=small toroid and 5A= large. Although it would be natural to assume so based on that all the drivers we have seen from other stores uses small toroid on 3A version, and a large for the higher output versions. Why would some of the pictures from LM show a large toroid version if their 5A version does not use it?? hmm... Not easy to get full control of all these drivers. Especially when some stores have a bad tendency to mix them up...
Im interested in knowing two things.
1. Is the 5 pack small toroid version that ouchyfoot ordered really 5A?
2. Do you really need a large toroid in order to push 5A out of these? Maybe someone with some better knowledge on small electronics could answer what the main difference would be between using a small and large toroid..
Did you order the 5A (FL-2) version and got it with a large toroid or this "LDV9" and then resistor mod it?... or something else??
Great price on that LDV9 btw. Looks similar to the no-contact-board version LM sells for 6,5$ + shipping. But its cheaper from LCK-LED. Only 4,6$ + shipping...
I’ve ordered the ‘FL-2’ on several occasions; the first order back in May came as a small toroid, but delivers 5A as received (no mods by me). Three modes; H-M-L.
On a subsequent order in July, I received two large toroid versions; Both of which only delivered 3A.
Part number on the bag is “FL-235”.
I have added a R100 to the ‘sense’ resistor stack to achieve ~5A. (The driver shipped with two R200’s).
I initially added 2 R100’s to the board, & briefly saw 7.x A, before the XML fried. (I was bench testing with 2 Samsung ICR 28A’s. The XML was on an AL star, but screwed to a copper CPU Heat-sink).
Ah yes, I read this before. Where did you get the R100 from (When I search for it I get a lot of different things)? I’ve got an FL-2 en route, I’ll probably get some just in case.
Also, I apologize in advance if this is a dumb thing to ask. I have very little knowledge when it comes to drivers and manipulating them.
I’m pretty sure I got them in this bulk pack.
No apologies necessary, most of us, myself included, are learning as we go - I had to read through several threads to get an idea what value resistor to add to the driver.
edit
This may help with the resistors.
I am pretty new to flashlight DIY, but I can tell you that a small toroid can handle just as much power as a larger toroid, so long as the switching frequency is higher…
In other words there is more to a switch mode circuit then just the size of the transformer…
Thanks for the info guys.. Looks like there isnt that much consistency about the toroid size, atleast from some stores..
IF the drivers are 100% identical, except the resistor values. Are there any benefits in having the large toroid if doing 5 amps? The main reason I am asking is that in many cases why bother with the large 10$+ version if you can just buy it for around 5$ and resistor mod it..
If anyone else tries to resistor mod any of these beyond 5A please let me now. I was not able to get it much above 5A when I tested on one.. Maybe I need to give it another go..