How to change rubber switch boot on Tank007 TK-737 ?

Hi everyone,

I just received in the mail a Tank007 TK-737 5-mode 18650 zooming light that I ordered a long time ago from BestOfferBuy. Preliminarily, I absolutely love it- very high quality feel, perfect mode memory, decent low mode, very bright on high, beautiful simple design. But the only major disappointment is that it doesn't tailstand well because of a few milmetres of protrusion of the switch boot. The light came with a replacement switch boot, so I get the impression that it must be easy to change. But I don't know where to start. Anybody own this light? Can it be made to tailstand by modifying the switch boot or changing the default black one for the additional red one?

Thanks very much for the help!

You might try a Boaz .. sorta a Foy on the opposite end .. a real easy trick . unscrew the tail cap and unscrew the guts out of the tail ..push out the rubber cap and add a oring on top of the cap around the brim of a hat .almost any dumb washer will work as long as it fits and waterproof is nice as well . reassemble . forces everything down into the flashlight and allows it to tailstand ... just prtend you're match and remember it all comes apart very easily and a dumb mod like this can make your light nicer to use .

Hmm, that might be an option Boaz, thanks.

My first dilemma is figuring how to disassemble switch though. I'm not very handy with this kind of stuff.

I assume it just is threaded in and you can just spin it counter clockwise and back her out like a toyota out of the drive-way..

You know it's simple if match can do it ...dig dig dig ..Tongue out

.Hard part is finding a washer or a spacer to fit ..I took and ground off the end of a clicky but after reassembling it ,that wasn't it. The rubber booty still stuck out because of the way it was molded ..(not flat) rather curved and there was no way to get it to be flat..

So by pulling everything out and adding a small washer on top of the rubber booty it dropped the whole thing downand let it tailstand.

I'm not talking rocket science here and don't know if others have a better way to achieve the same results ..I'm curious if there is another way .

Right, but to actually open up the switch module to change the rubber boot? I thought they might have made it easy to do, since they included a spare boot.

Soooo many replies come to mind, I think I'll just leave this one alone...but that is funny stuff!

Usually the switch module is held in by a threaded ring. This one's from an X2000.

Use some circlip pliers, a pair of fine pointed scissors or a pointy thing (I've once used a cocktail stick and a toothpick) to turn the ring.

That will usually release the switch assembly. This one's from an Aurora SH-034

Turn it the other way out and the switch guts will fall out. Leaving this on the SH-034 which has a slightly unusual mechanism.

There isn't usually another retaining ring as there is here.

Just push out the rubber and push in the other one. Compare the lengths of the central rubber stalks. They are what actually hits the switch.

If you have trouble finding washers, you can also use wire - cut off a length and wrap the wire into a circle, then push the wire into the bottom of the tailcap, follow with the boot and switch and retaining ring. Trim the length as needed so the circle fits into the tailcap. The wire doesn't have to be bare, insulated wire will also work depending on how much the original boot protrudes. The thicker the gasket/washer, the deeper the boot will be in the tailcap. This also causes the spring to push a bit more strongly into the battery, so you don't want to get too thick a washer.

Thanks very much for the tips!

And thanks very much Don for the very helpful pictures. I'll let you know if I get it done. I have a runtime test in progress at the moment. ;)

I should also mention that if you use wire or anything other than an o ring or washer, the watertight capability will be compromised. If you want the light to both tailstand and be water tight, use an o ring.

A quick trip to the hardware store should yield you the proper o-ring if you check in those specialty drawers they usually have.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your patience and detailed explanations! I ended up going with the wire trick for now. I used two rings of wire. Works great. I'll see if I can find a thick O-ring though, because I do want it to be waterproof.

I think it's in most cases the easiest mod people can do .. first it's relitively simple , and secondly it gives people confidenceand gets rid of that silly fear of the unknown ... oh no... those spooky tailcaps . i knew they were cheap too so messing one up was ok too . i ground on my switch and shortened it .. re assembled it and ... nope still didn't work . Igot into a trying to remould the plastic thought that never really went anywhere yet involved the microwave and the freezer.. in the end I had the shim epiphiney .

Hi - Just to clarify a bit. The switch cover has two sealing surfaces. One is on the bottom of the flashlight where the cover protrudes. The other surface is along the barrel of the light. The wire shim will impair the bottom seal, but probably not impair the barrel seal. You should try dunking the light in water (without turning it on). Then after waiting some amount of time, pull it out, open it up and inspect for water penetration. If none, the barrel seal is probably just fine.

I tried on my SkyRay S-A1 and it leaks Frown