How to sell flashlights through the mail?

How do i know if a “quirk” is a safety issue or not? I cant. So I have to do the safest thing I can do and abandon use of that light. Dont even keep the cell in it. Could burn down the house. I have no idea.
I love Anduril so far. But it looks like it gets really complicated too. Wont ever be able to mess around with programming it with a pc or anything. Pretty much rules out my highly coveted emisar lights.
Probably best I discover this now before wasting my money on more lights too advanced for me anyway.

Life is WAY better with a flashlight.
But I just want my light to be idiot proof. Instead of requiring me to be an entirely different person who actually recieved an education.

I dont feel safe anymore.

Are you joking, a light skipping a mode is a safety issue now?

I don’t even know how to use most of Anduril yet i use my new TS21 extensively.
It goes from mode 1-5 and i can tap 3 times to check voltage, so far thats all i need. The rest is gravy.

I have no idea what is and isnt a safety issue. with these lithium ion cells it seems like everything is huge concern.
I love my TS21. Loved…

Now theres concern about it overcharging the smaller 20350 cells that are only supposed to charge at less than .5a
So the TS21 is now charging those cells at 2a?

I dont really understand what happens in this situation. So ive stopped using that light with those cells. More wasted time and money.

I can to this anymore. Im gonna end up in the mental hospital. Again.

A light skipping a mode is not a safety issue, buy a 21700 cell for your TS21.

For all I know, it skipped to “protect” something, and by ignoring that feature and using high mode anyway. maybe BOOM goes the flashlight in my hand. I have no idea.

I have the included 21700. but I just bought the shorties for it…

I’m telling you its not a safety issue.
Software controls the rate of current draw using PWM in most cases (iirc its what Convoy uses). You can spend several hours searching BLF and reading about how PWM works if it will make you feel better even though its unnecessary.

How about a Malkoff or Surefire running on CR123 primaries? Click for on/off, loosen tail cap to lock out and even store the light long term?

I cant just be taking the word of someone on the interenet when It comes to safety, I need to fully understand it myself.
Since I cant do that… I unfortunately just have to not participate.

So either use the 21700 or buy a charger to charge your smaller batteries at 0.5A.

Im done here.

I've never been an inpatient at a mental hospital, but I lived in room & boards for the mentally ill from 1995-1998.

I much prefer living at home with my family like I am now, but I had a serious mental breakdown in 1995.

Either bin the lights or gave them away as by the sounds of it they are taking a heavy toll on your mental health.

History is repeating itself for you CRC2. Take a deep breath & relax.

Stop obsessing unduly about safety. You know the basics by now, rely on what you know.

Keep it simple, real simple. Quit trying to buy the latest & greatest light/battery to keep up with the latest trends.

Get to know the lights & batteries you have as you use them. And YES, use then & enjoy them. Be happy as you do. You are not gonna blow up into a thousand pieces.

Don’t worry about choosing the absolute perfect battery so as to get the max preformance from a specefic light.
Just stick a battery in it & use it my friend.

Don’t concern yourself with shorty tubes that require other batteries.
Keep it simple buddy….

And for heavens sake, please stop telling yourself & others how ignorant you think you are.
Because you are not!

You can do this……

You filed off the end of one light and added an glow epoxy resin (which looks cool) and think you can’t deal with this issue of skipping modes? Come on, you can do it, just try :slight_smile:

I have a few lights that are flaky and they didn’t respond to simple efforts to make them reliable. But there is a reason I didn’t try what is likely needed, for example with these:

I have 2 S2+ lights and they are flaky but as I don’t really like them for my purposes (just a bit too heavy for daily use), I never tried to get them properly ‘fixed’. Here is what happens: they give me issues like not switching, or output going dim without doing anything (then bright again a bit later) or suddenly changing to the 5 modes with disco modes. I think it’s is because of having to take out the battery each time to charge it and that means dirt etc. esp. as I used them a lot while doing house renovations. Taking out the pill, cleaning the threads, putting some anti-corrosion preventive lubrication that doesn’t eat o-rings is really needed for such lights when they are used a lot. As I used them a lot I charged the batteries lots of times too, so many times unscrewing the tail cap. The button can be flaky too, remove the switch so there is no boot covering it, use a contact cleaner spray and the press the button so that the liquid gets into the switch, let it dry, try again. As I don’t really like the S2+ in weight, I never tried all that, just simple cleaning here and there.

Yeah it's a $100 or nothing and either way it's not going to break you so offer them local to someone in your sphere of influence and buy yourself a Sofirn sp10 pro and run a nimh or a AA alkaline and get over the whole more is better thinking . a couple hundred lumens is all anyone ever needed for 1400 years . consider a 2xAA maglight was only 9 lumens and every electrician,plumber heating and air guy happily crawled thru attics and basements 24/7. get a few "lights that you feel safe with...and get involved with another hobby .

Man, don’t give up again. You’ve learned a lot and have some nice lights. This isn’t a safety issue.

I think - possibly - it may be glitching because you’re switching modes so quickly…? If you go slower, allowing just a bit before going to the next mode, is the glitch repeatable that way?

My thinking there is based on my own experience with half-pressing reverse clicky switches like this. These aren’t too different from any other type of switch that connects or disconnects the flow of electricity to a circuit. Where your wall switches at home are usually just a solid on or off, these switches will break the circuit when pressed halfway or so, before the click happens. If we do this quickly then the programming in the driver says hey, do something with that fast signal you just received. It can get a little complex because we ask these little chips to notice very small levels of timing, and we ask them to remember settings (modes), etc, etc. But all you’re doing is breaking the circuit for a moment and the driver does its thing.

If there is actually a firmware glitch here…well, what to do with that. Just be annoyed, but don’t be worried about safety. It’s possible that’s the case but it could just be how you’re operating it. AND…just a shot in the dark but it crossed my mind that perhaps something could be a little different when fast-clicking like this because this is a high boost driver, taking you from single cell voltage up to 12v. That could change things to where repeated cuts in the flow of electricity might momentarily cause the inductor to not give the steady boost it’s supposed to. Maybe? I can’t back that up with any technical support, though.

But I’d try to slow it down and see if it persists. Rule that out, anyway.

Also, if you didn’t already, you might take the switch out and give it a close inspection or a shot of canned air just in case some of your metal filings got in there somehow and are interfering with the path of electricity (doubtful, but it’s possible). That’s a pretty cool mod, by the way, the gob of glow looks great.

But relax…no safety issue here and the driver isn’t trying to protect anything, no worries. If there’s a legit glitch in the firmware or if it just can’t handle that kind of fast-clicking and that’s how you prefer to work a light, then it’s not your model of choice…next model, please! :slight_smile:

(one other note on timing and firmware……you may read on various threads about how timing is implemented in different ways/different reasons for some firmwares. That gets into the nitty gritty of actual electrical engineering and programming, but there’s no need to know all of that unless you want to. With some firmwares a normal quick-ish half-press will advance the mode forward as usual, and then a longer half-press will move backwards to a previous mode or down to moonlight mode. Pretty nifty.)

CRC — take the tail cap off that M21 and use a piece of wire or even a screwdriver to make contact at the back of the light - then break the connection and restore the connection simulating the switch — if the light works properly — the switch is loose are bad — did the light work properly before you modified the tail cap —- This stuff is not rocket science