I just did some tests on the 1 LED, SBT90.2 clone, 26650. I have one stock and one I modded to an SFT40 6500K. I have one stock 26650 I got with one of them - Alonefire branded 26650 (I think Alonefire and Xiwang Fire use/are the same OEM).
I think I have my lux meter figured out… I’m taking the max reading from 18 feet and converting it to cd with an online calculator. Amps measured at the tail with a clamp meter and piece of 16 ga wire, although the body tube is thin and contact might not be the best with this wire.
So what does that tell us about the driver? The 40T is able to supply more amps, but not a crazy amount. So it’s not FET on turbo, right? The lower amps of the SFT40 vs stock means the stock led has a higher forward voltage?
I was seeing it on Super Deals for about $15 USD the last couple days. I don’t see it right now but I bet it will return. I will post again if it does.
Yes, perfectly usable. Hold from off to strobe (unlike moonlight with many UIs) is annoying until you get used to it. I’m sure you could driver swap it if you wanted. I may not bother. I’m surprised it was drawing 10+ amps, which is pretty good. I have no idea how efficient it is or if it has temp control as I haven’t had a chance to use it much yet.
Edit: I’m questioning my lux meter and/or how I’m using it. I wouldn’t trust the measurements I provided above.
Quite a weighty light because the hammer thingy is quite hefty. 18650 battery, 3 modes + hidden strobe.
Material underneath the LED board and there even is some thermal paste.
Battery claims 3800mAh which I allow my self to disbelieve in. Put it on the Opus 3100, will edit this later with the capacity. Edit: 2059mAh
Light color is quite good, not blue. This light is not super bright.
I’ve never seen a sub-80CRI light with a 80+ R9, that’s pretty crazy. But also the CCT is super high at 9324K, for some reason I’ve noticed that lots of cheap lights with extremely high CCT tend to measure okay-ish CRI values. Maybe because there isn’t a lot of red in the reference spectrum to begin with.
OT. I woulnd’t bother investigating. My own testing with the same method using OpenLightMaster website with my S21D below. Note Ra 83 and R9 54 with Nichia 219b 4500k.
This website is done by 3rd party and completely unreliable IME. Note number 3 and especially 4. Besides the problem with Ra and R9 being wrong, when sensor is overloaded because light is too bright or too close, such as when tested with bright throwers for example, it goes completely bonkers with results, as in crazy results, WITHOUT warning you like the official Opple Lightmaster App would.
I have not completed testing with low CRI lights yet. Lost interest after S21D 219b and 519a. It wouldn’t surprise me if more weird results appear.
Yeah when sensor is overloaded it keeps reading without any warning. I was scratching my head wondering wth was going on. At least for high CRI LED like the 219b and seemingly your B35AM, the Duv SEEMS to follow the phone app.
But Ra and R9 not reliable though, definitely not for high CRI LED, and can’t imagine why they would be accurate for low CRI LED. I haven’t tested yet though.
Good question. Some of these are “hidden gems.” Some are a minor design change or two away from being something special. Some are just destined to be junk - made that way on purpose.
Go look at Alonefire’s AE store, for example. They have some really intersting models (ignore the <$10 stuff and the bulk of the UV models). But we never talk about them. In fact, I’d say well over 50% of the discussions here involve about four or five brands and I bet you can guess which ones I’m thinking about pretty easily.
There’s nothing wrong with those brands, of course. And probably part of the reason why we talk about them so much is they have a presence here, which is fantastic. But I do wonder why there are so many brands that are so rarely mentioned by the community.
But I have to say it again, I am gladly surprised by the quality of these lights.
Back in the day it was very common to have an LED in a hollow pill slowly dying from heat death. That so many lights here have material under the LED, and some even 3mm or more, is really nice.
If it weren’t for those stupid Strobe and SOS modes…
Unfortunately this is still the norm today for lots of ultra-budget lights. Generic AAA lights generally have floating MCPCBs, and so does Alonefire’s AAA UV light. It is an excellent light in other ways, very good output and even has a UV filter. I wonder how long the UV emitter lasts on a tiny, thin aluminum PCB floating in air, cranking out enough output to make skin feel hot (600+mA at battery).
I also got a triple-emitter 18650 UV light from Alonefire for $5. In terms of performance, it is an incredible value–the output (claimed 15W, obviously not) matches my Convoy S2+ modded with CUN66A1G running 4x7135, which costs at least $15, and it also comes with a filter. The cost-cutting shows in the build quality: the heatsink pill is small and loose (rattles a lot), the PCB is aluminum, the reflector is plastic, the head is nowhere near waterproof despite the O-ring.
A lot of these lights might perform decently ok while they last, but once a part fails (through normal use or mechanical damage) it would be extremely difficult to fix/replace without a lot of skill and equipment. Even the basic parts like switches, which are not held by retaining rings but who-knows-what. On the other hand, something like a Convoy uses high-quality, modular parts that (1) perform to spec and don’t fail as easily, and (2) can be replaced cheaply and easily in case of failure.
I’ve put in a lens in this that I had laying around, but today I got an order from Convoy with these two things:
Both fit, the reflector fits really nice with barely any sideplay. That means, the S2+ AR Glass fits as well, which I will order after CNY.
Further remembered me how easy modifying a light was back then. doesn’t matter if the optics are 1mm longer or shorter, just turn the pill a bit more or less…
Received this light today:
draws 1500/650/200mA in the three modes
lens makes an ugly hotspot, even with an SST40
800mAh Cell has 769mAh (XTAR VC4SL) on first charge-test
I would say, for the little money not too bad, but overall not good.
I only did that swap to an SFT40. I’m curious about an SFT25 but I don’t have a 3535 board big enough. I had put a Maxtorch 32mm board in my cart at mtnelectronics so I belive I was going to use that.
