I got my LD10 a week or so ago. It has scratches and dents on the blue bezel, like someone tried to pry off the bezel. There are also marks near the lanyard attachment points.
To make things worse, it clearly has the parasitic drain issue. In about 22 hours, it went from 4.2V to 3.75V without being touched at all.
I’m very much not impressed with Imalent at this point.
I remember there was a light suffering from this kind of drain when locked.
Do you have your Imalent locked by chance?
It wasn’t locked. Thanks, though.
Edit: BTW, another 24 hours has brought it to 3.57V.
Since last night when it was… what did I say, 4.04V?… it’s reading 4.07V now.
Maybe some were good and others were lemons, dunno.
Mine arrived today, will check the drain. Weird almost-not-fitting design of the charging plug indeed, as if it is not meant for this light but another but with some fiddling you can make it work.
They thought the magnetic force was higher, even planned and produced some caps for keychain attachment. But yes, even then the design is far from being optimal.
I actually paid full price a while back 
Charged it to 4.19 at 8pm last night and it was still at 4.19 8hrs later. I noticed when it’s not fully charged and you check voltage multiple times it will fluctuate up and down as much as .05v. <is that normal?
Never noticed, but tried right now: Light was off and stayed off. Fist triple click gave 3.77V, subsequent checks gave 3.8V. Waited a minute, still 3.8V.
BTW, if you can take all the cons into account, and they were known quite early after it came out, it is worth the money for it’s power and the display. You’re even valuing it more since you paid more. I know since I paid a premium for the Olight S1R and really love this light.
I don’t mind the light. It is quite bright and small and i love the display feature. I also bought a LD 70 and a MS03 so I am supposed to get another LD10 free. Love both of those lights but wish the MS03 had a similar display to the LDs.
I’ve swapped emitter in my LD10 to 219C 3000K and it’s much bezter now
Nice, although you may need to limit Turbo time when running the Nichia 219C.
Nah... it cost me 13$...
How did you open up the LD10? Does the bezel screw off?
It’s a press fit like on Zebralight but luckily not so stiff. Just stick a tiny screwdriver between lens and ring and it will just pop out
Okay, that was almost a coupla days ago. Completely forgot about it, just checked, reading 4.07V. So it even gained a little from resting.
Guess mine’s not a leaky one, yay.
Tnx
It was a bit tricky to not scratch the blue ano. I went for a small sharpened screwdriver (so ending in a knive’s edge) and gently hammering it between bezel and glass. The ano did suffer a tiny scratch but only if you look for it.
I swapped in a sliced dogfart (from Simon). The hotspot tint is now from 3940K on lowest to 4120K on highest setting, all slightly above the BBL (duv=0.0018) and between 91 and 92CRI. Visually the tint is very neutral with no hints of green or rose. Turbo is now 870 lumen, high 615 lumen and lowest 20 lumen.
The new led is not perfect but much nicer than the cold low CRI XP-L HI. 
I can just imagine what a non-flasholic would be thinking when reading something like this.
I reckon even that even for a BLF member it takes a while among us flashlight nuts to read this bit above :innocent: . Note to self: keep language normal. :person_facepalming:
I also added a small scratch, but the 4000K SST20 is worth it.