Alright, I received the green Osram today.
I have a lens here that is labeled “20mm 3535 15°” with a matte front surface. I have no idea if that labeling is correct, but in a short testing, it works great.
I guess I will order some more 3535 20mm lenses, some striped, some matte.
What is the difference between beaded and matte? I read that the beaded is more extreme than matte, is transfers more light of the hotspot into the spill - probably doesn’t make a big difference in my scenario?
I would stay away from matte lenses–this beamshot suggests that matte lenses can be prone to artifacts, and OP also does not recommend matte TIRs.
I’ve always had good luck with beaded lenses from Convoy. Also: I have matte Carclo lenses, and the matte finish wears out (flattens) over time when pressed against glass, while the beaded finish is completely fine.
BTW, stay absolutely the hell away from wide-angle clear lenses–they generate a holey, unusable beam worse than a de-focused maglite, with any LED. I couldn’t even think of a theoretical reason why they might work, and don’t know why Convoy even offers them. I hypothesize that matte TIRs are based on these, in which case definitely stay away.
So far all of my bead TIRs appear to be just a regular narrow-angle TIR with a beaded finish, which may partially explain why they produce a much nicer beam.
To update this thread:
I got the S15 and 3d printed an adapter for it today. I will make the white part beneath it with the grey switch new with another switch on it to switch the green light on or off. I will use a 500mA driver for it for now. Maybe that will be too much but I’ll see. At work I have a white 3W LED with a green plastic sheet in front of it, so a “real” green LED at 500mA might be too intense.
That makes sense. Are you using a stock Convoy driver? If so, you can get your desired output level by a combination of mode switching and resistor-swapping.
For my personal interest: how are you powering the S15 head, and do you have a 3mf/stl file for the part that screws into the head? I would like to run some lights off a USB supply, and figured that what you made might be adapted to work…
Oh, I am just using one of these generic drivers:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005461642307.html
I use 12V, so I can’t use a flashlight driver and I don’t want to use another Buck converter down to 4V like on the other light with the swans-neck you can see on the pics
I can’t upload data here, but it’s really just a M22x1.5 thread inside, that fits wonderful with the square threads
To end this project, I put it all together today, 500mA driver, 38° matte lens (I couldn’t see any difference between matte 20°, 30° and 38°) and it works beautifully.
I am very, very happy with this modification.
That looks like the Yinding gold flats but with a die from getian green. The LES looks identical, at least in the picture.
I’ve read the getian 5050 greens are deeper green than osrams W1/CSLNM1.F1 or W2/CSLNP1.F1, maybe closer to CSLNM1.13?
I got a getian to replace the damaged W1 green in my K1 but never got around to swapping it.
This must be true because the getian green is monochrome, while the Osram .F1 green is phosphor-converted, so there’s a decent amount of yellow and red. The .13 verdure would be the right comparison.
From what I’ve heard, monochrome green emitters still don’t have the same efficacy (lm/W) as phosphor-converted green, just because the blue die underlying PC green is much more efficient than a monochrome green die, outweighing efficiency losses from phosphor conversion and efficacy losses from spreading of the spectrum away from green. For this reason, you might expect a drop in throw from getian green compared to Osram.
