I mentioned it in the context of a 3535 package, albeit not a plug in for XP footprint, cost well up to you guys. My perspective is a little different, if I have to dick around for more than a hour to get a $10 led to do the job of a $40 led, Im already in the hole, but when time isn't money....$10 leds will make sense, the kicker is if you never get the performance you want from the $10 led, all the free time in the world isnt going to leave you with that LED post coital grin
I’ve been looking at the LZ1 mounted on a 20mm star to put in a host like the Convoy M2 and I’m glad that I read your post before I bought it. After looking at the picture again, I was able to see what you were saying that it wasn’t DTP. Better off buying it bare.
So how did you mount the LED Engin to the Sinkpad? Was it as easy as pre-tinning, gluing chip down to the thermal pad with Arctic Silver and solder the cathodes and anodes? I doubt that you had to use a hotplate or hot air station from the looking at the picture above .
I’m new to flashlights as a hobby but modifying and soldering things aren’t new to me. I used to mod CB radios and MARS/CAP Ham radios way back when. When I had better eyesight, I soldered a 32 pin chip into a Xbox for a friend. I was nervous as a bomb disposal technician when I did that mod LOL.
Glue? No I solderer it like normal. Just had to cut some traces on the xml color sinkpad to kill contunity to the thermal pad.
See post 86 in this thread.
(That’s a direct link if you have your page view settings on 30 posts per page).
Note do you already have an xml color sinkpad? They’re not avaliable for sale…
When I said glue I meant Arctic Silver on the thermal pad and thermal slug. As for the the star board, I haven’t bought one yet. Will the regular non color XML board work because vestureofblood has some of those for sale. Ordering from the company direct probably requires buying a certain lot size and I wouldn’t want to do that. Would a Noctigon XM20 work as well as the Sinkpad? Those are easy to come by and I wouldn’t be planning on over-driving the crap out of it. I’d rather drive it at one amp in a meaty host and have it be a constant duty cycle instead of over-driving the crap out of it and having to back down because it’s getting hot.
I haven’t really messed around much with surface mount components because I worked on old school stuff where you didn’t have to worry about lifting a trace on a board and the things you wanted to cool down were mounted on heat sinks. Playing with flashlights is going to be a new hobby for me but this old dog is willing to learn some new tricks.
A regular XM pattern MCPCB won’t work cause the center thermal pad of the LZ1 is larger than an XM thermal pad and contacts the XM + & - pad’s in the center. Not a problem with the xml color pad cause the + and - pads are divided into 4 tony sections isolated from eachother.
Ask VOB he my have one or two more xml color sinkPAD’s left, tho if you only drive it at one amp you don’t really even need it (tho DTP never hurts).
FYI at 1.4A there is no need to run a reduced duty cycle when on a DTP board, that’s what DTP boards are for.
I still don’t see any value in DTP for this application. We’re talking about 1.4A, less than 6W total power. Djozz and Match have both done testing which didn’t show much value in that region for other emitters, this one will be no different. Here are a couple of djozz’s tests which show what I’m talking about:
If we were sneaking much beyond 1.4 Amps it might start to be “a thing”, even at 2A or 3A djozz shows a difference. I just don’t see where the testing shows that DTP does squat for a 1.4A LED.
So just use the LedEngin MCPCB.
I think you are right, wight, 1.4A should not require special heatsinking. But why is this emitter so *#@ expensive?... I would like to do the colourXM-L-Sinkpad trick, wire this emitter to the power supply and lightmeter, and see how much current it really can handle before the output maxes out. Could be easily 2/3 amps, why not?
I’d say a murder fund is needed once emitters get to this kind of price. I think a possible shift to the output spectrum when outside of the 300mA-700mA drive current range was mentioned earlier. You’d be setup to test for that too.
I heard murder fund! :party:
If driving it at 1 Amp mounted in the meaty Convoy M2 Host will work, it relieves me of the stress of trying mess around with surface mount stuff.
Digikey has the best price for me. $36.12 + $5 USPS Priority shipping. Mouser wants $75 for shipping. 
I think you may be doing something wrong at both sites! I guess it could be related to our locations, but I don’t really think so. Mouser has $4.99 shipping (USPS “Economy” - aka UPS Mail Innovations in most cases I think) and Digikey has $3.22 shipping (USPS First Class).
In my experience (to central Ohio) mouser’s cheapest option (for a single emitter) for me is $7.99 and its the service where UPS/FedEx transports it to the local PO and USPS delivers it) Digikey is $3.22 USPS first-class (but they don’t ship till next day even if you clear the same-day cut off by hours).
Digikey orders get here in 3 days (2 day shipping), mouser orders take 6 days, I always use DK except for the rare occasions I only find the item at mouser (Amber XP-E2’s and the LZ1’s on 11 MCPCB’s ).
Ah, so Mouser is not the same across con-US. Good to know.
I prefer paying a little more for priority mail vs first class. You can track priority mail and it’s insured up to a certain price. Here’s a screen shot.
I still don’t see what you’re doing.
When I punch an order in for that emitter to “9751 Townline Rd, Cheboygan, MI 49721” it shows up just like the pricing to ship to me in VA. Economy is $4.99, just like usual. Priority Mail is $6.99. At a glance the entire shipping price list looks identical to what I see to VA. Are you sure you’re signed into the correct site? You’ve got a little USA flag in the upper right corner?
EDIT: Also, how do you get the shipping price to show up inside your cart? For me it’s always got an “Estimate” hyperlink where yours shows a price.
I see now what you are talking about. When I would go to www.mouser.com it was taking me to the Israel website. I figured that they had moved there. When I clicked on the flag, it took me to a page where I could select USA.
Sounds good. Now the real question is how C_k is coming up with $8 to Ohio? Heh.
Well I went ahead and signed into mouser again, added one of the same LZ1’s to an order and hit estimate shipping and this time it gave me the same two options pictured above so I pulled out my last invoice from when I ordered my single LZ1 on 11mm board on oct 31’st and the total on it is $44.11 ($36.12 + 7.99) and I definitely (absolutely no doubt) choose the cheapest shipping option it gave me at that point cause it was a single part for a personal build so I wasnt paying anything extra for faster shipping.
Still tho, even at the “new” price I bet it’s that same FedEx/USPS joint service, I’ll stick with Digikey but thanks to mouser for taking paypal now (tho I have a PP credit card so technically anywhere takes my paypal)
I got this pair of 365nm UV emitters off ebay today, they were supposed to be the white base one’s like from IO (which I also have 2 of on the way) but they’re these green base one’s.
I threw together an A6 host I had to test it, it really seems like its 365 with very little visible output. It seems to have a higher vF and was only doing .67A direct drive from an NCRB at 4.2V so I zener modded a 105C with 5 7135’s and am running it from 2x CR123, it’s now pulling the 1.75A the 5*7135’s should be and it seems (by eye) exactly even with a LEDENGIN emitter I have here running at 1.3A which is really exciting.
Im really happy with this build, it went together very nicely. I actually think I like it more than my LZ1 L2C (tho being budget friendly helps a lot). This light is going to a mechanic buddy for xmas who needs a UV light for leak detection, not sure if I’ll use the A6 host but it ended up so nice I might just leave it as is.