The SC600 MKII L2 has some other cool new features too:
Beacon / strobe mode group, accessed by fast-clicking three times from off. Includes several sub-modes selected by double-clicking after reaching this mode.
Thermal self-correction from the S6330, or, as ZL puts it: “Temperature Regulated Output automatically and nearly imperceptibly adjusts output levels up or down based on ambient temperature. This allows highest possible output at any given moment while protecting the light from overheating ensuring a longer life. (higher output modes only)”
And, of course, brighter overall output, if that matters to you. I don’t normally notice the difference in brightness between XM-L and XM-L2.
Oh, I didn’t notice that. I bet that makes the spot look significantly brighter than the older models. At a rough guess, I’d say probably about 1.5X to 1.7X as much lux as the older ones… (12*2 / 102 by condensing the beam 7% brighter due to XM-L2 * possibly another 7% brighter)
Unfortunately, that also makes it less useful for a variety of purposes unless a diffuser is added. It’d be nice if ZL would make add-on diffusers for their lights, like something which could stay attached and flip up/down over the lens as needed.
I don't think the hotspot difference will be that extreme, but I can certainly see why ZL did it.
The strobe modes are fun, but I really would have prefered if they kept the strobe mode grouping at two quick clicks, as opposed to three. With my older ZL's I develped a habit of clicking three times fast to get to the lowest high mode. Also I suppose I'll never be satisfied, but would it have been too much to as for variable strobe, as opposed to just slow strobe, and high speed strobe. Both are too easy to ignore/adapt to.
To my understanding, PID is active thermal management based on several inputs including at least temperature and current draw. Instead of a timer based stepdown or huge drop in lumens to manage heat, the PID controller will adjust and predict future temperature and output to match the intended value as closely as possible based on the current temperature conditions of the light. I believe someone stated that there are now 300+ discrete brightness levels that the light can choose based on how hot it is. So if you choose maximum light, it will take the temperature and then dynamically adjust output if heat generated is too high, or the light meets a better cooling requirement.
I haven’t used anything older than a 2012 model, so I’m guessing you are referring to something before that. On my oldest Zebralight, three quick clicks takes it directly to the low mode (click once for high, twice for medium, three times for low). But that’s redundant, since a simple click-and-hold goes directly to low without the initial bright flash. So, they replaced the redundant sequence with something more useful. People had complained that making strobe a sub-level of ‘high’ was annoying, and that it was too hard to get to (click once, wait, double-click to get to H2, assuming you’ve configured H2 to be a strobe). I see the triple-click-for-strobe as a good UI change which should please almost everyone who complained.
Still, I’d really like it if they would get rid of the twelve clicks required to enter ‘programming mode’ to change a sublevel setting.
So, I’ve been debating with myself for over a week… and I think I’m just going to have to pre-order both of the H52 models. I think I’ll like the frosted lens for up-close work, but I also really like the original H51 beam profile for longer-distance stuff. So I guess I’ll take a hint from CPF and just grab both.
(as for the H502 models, … yuck. Too floody for pretty much anything I do. However, the pseudo-flood frosted models sound nice)
The reason I ask is the H602 comes without one. The H502 clip fits, so now I find myself needing an extra.
Oh I know it's a redundant way to get to low, but it was the one I got used to. The other way, holding to go into low, I kept holding either not long enough, and getting high mode, or too long and I'd end up in medium.
The strobe modes are a bit off odd choice. Slow, fast, sub-lumen beacon, and full power beacon. Personally I'd prefer just variable strobe, beacon, and sos. The sub lumen beacon mode is just completely useless.
We placed on order for some GITD silicone holders for H31, H52, H502, H600 and the pocket clip for the H31, H51, and H502 about a week ago. No ship notice yet.
Awesome, I'll make sure to order them along with the Zebralights.
Also, small update on the Armytek Wizard Pro - the supplied clip will BADLY scratch the light. Obviously doesn't affect function at all, but I'm a bit peeved by having a nasty scratch on a premium flashlight, from a manufacturer supplied accessory.
Good Day,
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Re: Armytek Wizard Pro
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Could You Please tell me:
(1). What is the maximum 18650 battery length & diameter that will fit in this light.
(2). Will a Protected Panasonic 3400mAh 18650 battery fit?
(3). Are the battery contacts sprung on both ends (within the lights)?
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Thank You Very Much,
Roberta 0:)
We answered your question over at the CPF thread as well, here is what we wrote:
Hi Roberta,
(1) Unfortunately I do not believe Zebralight has released numbers for maximum sizes, however we can tell you that the biggest batteries we have tested are RediLast 3400 Protected at 68.83mm length and 18.45mm diameter. (2) Due to differences in manufacturing, we cannot say for sure that your particular 18650 will fit. (3) Yes the H600 lineup has battery springs on both ends of the battery carrier.
Good Day CalvinIS,
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Yes indeed, You Very Kindly answered my question re Zebralight H600Fw MKII, H600w MKII & H602w at CPF….
… but here I am asking re the Armytek Wizard Pro…
As I am trying to decide which one to order (want 2 off).
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Thank You Very Much,
.
Best Regards,
Roberta 0:)
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I haven’t had much trouble with the timing on my Zebralights… I can get them to the mode I want while blindfolded. But then, I’m a musician, so timing is usually easy for me.
As for the sub-lumen beacon, I might actually find it useful. My old eternaLight did that, and it was quite handy for finding the thing in the dark. It’d just blink a dim blue every two seconds — not bright enough to be annoying at night, but easily bright enough to tell where the light is. It could run for several years in that mode before needing new batteries. OTOH, I get the same benefit on my H51 simply by leaving it in its glow-in-the-dark rubber holder. That thing glows all night long.
A true variable strobe would be awesome though… That’s the main feature I miss from my old eternaLight. All I had to do was put it in strobe mode then hold its ‘adjust’ button for a while, and soon it’d be flashing at exactly the same rate as whatever moving object I was looking at (spinning fan, for example). Also great fun at the slower speeds, when playing ‘spooky’ games in the dark. I’m planning to re-implement that feature in a custom ROM whenever I find time and hardware to do so. Perhaps on an Ultrafire UF-T50, since it has an electronic switch and I’m pretty sure it’s flashable.
