H17F + BLF A6 lighted switch resistor modded (1 duplicate resistor stacked onto each of the switches’ stock resistors) - tailcap is brighter and driver works perfectly
H17F + BLF A6 lighted switch with all resistors bypassed - much brighter. All driver functions work fine except memory when the light is turned off. If set to always turn on in low it will instead act as if next mode memory is active. If set to advanced memory it will alternate between low and second low when first turned on. Once the light is on, all functions operate normally. The light correctly remembers all programmed modes and settings. I consider the light still quite usable in this mode, but it might be a bit awkward if you always want to start in moonlight unless you manually make the second brightness another moonlight.
Bleeder resistor added to previous option - did not help or fix the problem with off memory.
Thanks for this info FL2…!
It’s now been cut and pasted into my book of stuff to remember, and with confirmation to boot…
This is quit awesome actually and it’s not that I didn’t believe the person who told me that the H17F could light those switches without any UI side affects I just never got around to installing them with the switches and didn’t think about it again until today when I saw your work here, very darn nice and the best choice of driver IMHO…
I love UI’s and the more complicated it is the better, like the M43 is my idea of fun.
Now that I think about it, it was Dr. J. himself that told me there wouldn’t be any problems running those LED switches, wish I would have asked why, I’ve never looked to see if there’s a bleeder already in the build and that’s why it doesn’t react like most other drivers with those switches, I guess I have some work to do…
Sounds like you may have had a H17 malfunction on you with the resistors bypassed scenario, and brighter you say? Hum, but has memory issues, well that sounds like me, but not the brighter part.
I’ve had only one out of maybe 10 or so that went nuts on me and when they do act up they really act up and for me anyhow I couldn’t even begin to figure out what is or was wrong so just replaced it and all was good again.
Anyhow thank you for your time and info, seems to me I have some work to do…
I have some 18500 tubes too, it makes the E2L into a nice length. Btw, they fit the S2+ too, and I have several S2+ shorties that I made into 18500 lights by shrinking the inside. When I screw in the 18500 tube, they fit an 18650 cell. Then the light becomes 10.2 cm long instead of the full 11.7 cm of the standard S2+ and still uses an 18650.
(no one gets this without pictures, right?)
Also, I built up a black E2L host as a 18650 shorty, some explanation and pictures in the what did you mod today thread ( What did you mod today? - #3049 by djozz )
Only with the S2+. And you need to earn every mm.
-triple optics are a bit shorter than the stock reflector.
-I cut the top off the pill and solder the triple board on top of the half pill (the MCU is the tallest component, it just clears the underside of the ledboard).
-no driver spring, just a very shallow button.
-tail spring replaced by a very flat intl-outdoor Be-Cu spring, made smaller by cutting off one complete wind.
If yoo do all this you have just enough length for a 18500 (with 18350 tube) or a 18650 (with 18500 tube), and for a glass lens in front of the reflector.
Comolication: in not all S2+ lights the threading goes deep enough towards the front that the pill can be screwed in enough. For some mods I had to file off some pill threads to get it deep enough.
I tried an 18500 tube in the S2+. With a shortened pill mod it did indeed fit an 18650.
However, for that build I still prefer using the 18650 tube with shortened head. While harder to do I think I like the result better since it gives more knurling along the length of the light.
I sawed off the bottom of the head on my E2L and then ground out part of the remaining threads to make space for an o-ring.
Entire light with 18500 tube is now 94mm.
However, the result isn’t perfect. I took a little too much of the head off. result is I couldn’t grind out enough space for a full o-ring unless I wanted to leave just 1 thread in the head. It works now with a smaller o-ring, but the o-ring is slightly chewed up. I’m doing battery changes through the tail now.
Solution is to try again with a fresh head. Take a bit less off at the head, and if I want it to still be short, take some off at the tail.
Yes, the 94mm version only fits 18500. The E2L can’t be made much more compact because of the relatively long head with heatsink fins and presence of the tailcap clicky.
As a result, a DQG Tiny 18650 with an 18650 inside is still shorter than this shortened E2L with 18500 tube. Even my old side-switch modded Convoy S2+ mini using the E2L’s 18500 tube but with an 18650 inside is shorter.
The advantage of the E2L however is the heatsinking is excellent for a tube light, and because there’s no sideswitch you can hold and operate the light from the back end without any pain from the heat even when the head is hot. So even though this light is bulkier and has a small battery than the DQG, it can run longer at max power making for an overall brighter light.
It also helps that RMM sells off-the-shelf clicky drivers with temp sensors. I don’t yet have any e-switch drivers with temp sensors.
as well, and to the PM question you got it, so all’s good and that is why I know the black and grey are good to go. Will explain in my way re: X1S on other thread and boost driver sort of issue per Paul reasoning.
I don’t always use a glass lens in front of the triple optic, that should buy me about 1,5mm right ?
About colour, how is the dark grey 18500 tube in comparison with a grey S2+ ?
"Joson Bo: hi, the first batch is 19mm really. and the MCPCB is also 19mm. there is no enough space for a torlanrance. Now we have changed it to 20mm. We never care about other MCPCB. You can reduce a little by a sandpaper. then the 19mm can ok. Now all the on selling host are 20mm."