Jetbeam TCR-1 ala CRX

Jetbeam TCR-1 w N219b 4500k 9080 sw45k
mod with reflector upgrade by CRX:

beam perfection:

on my meter, fresh cell initial maximum:
415 lumens on 16340
460 lumens on 18350

beam colors
sw35, sw45k, Fenix E01

Titanium TCR-1 empty weight, no clip:

Aluminium RRT-01 and Eye10 empty weight, no clip:

Los Cuatro Amigos:

Sus Ojos:

As usual CRX went the extra 5 miles beyond the call of duty and put a high polish on the Ti Host, added a spring bypass: (everything he touches gets the full monty)

and glow powder in the tail…


About reflectors, hotspots and rings in beams:

I have a couple Novatacs with really nice tight hotspots and great beams without rings,

RRT-01/Eye10/TCR-1 beam are not as tight, and they are prone to a bit more ringyness, either as a halo or donut around the outer edge, or worse, secondary rings in the spill around the corona

I hope people share what they learn for alternative reflectors for the RRT-01/Eye10/TCR-1 Jetbeams…
these models were sold as Niteye brands in Europe… still same model names, just different company name… same lights, same drivers

about drivers:

Eye10 has strobe at double low-hi rotation, and SOS at triple low-hi rotation
RRT-01 has SoS at triple low-hi, nothing at double low-hi
but all the drivers are interchageable
in fact
the driver inside the TCR-1 says Niteye10,
but strangely, I cannot access any blinky at double low-hi in this TCR-1, while triple low-hi gives SOS, like an RRT-01. The manual to the TCR-1 lists no strobe, only SOS.

so now I get to whine…
I wish my TCR-1 had a strobe mode like my Eye10… LOL
darn, the honeymoon is over so soon, but it was sooo sweet…
no perfect light… for all features

and to think that for just $1000 more I could have bought an HDS with Half the output, and a higher low and no 18350 capability… but it has strobe… hmmm yeah, no perfect light still… lol

Other Ti Rotary options with Strobe and not compatible w 18350

The Niteye Eye10 TiC has strobe. but its body tube is too tight for the 18350 1200mAh Keepower IMR.

18350 compatibility:

The TCR-1, as well as the aluminium RRT-01 and aluminium Eye10 do fit my 18350 1200mAh Keepower IMR

future dreams:

mod the TCR-1 driver to an Eye10 driver w strobe function.

just when I thought I was out… they pull me back in!

what is the reflector?

Sweet :sunglasses:
I like that tint ! And of course the GITD feature! Congrats jon_slider :wink: And CRX :beer:

how do you do that ‘glow powder’?

i’ve found that ‘glow tape’, is much brighter than any glow paint (i assume because it is thicker), but what is this powder stuff?

nobody knows, it was something CRX had in his spare parts bin

Thanks for sharing my joy… it is all your fault for starting me on this journey… LOL

The silvery shiny bit surrounding the LED :smiley:

I used LIT glow powder mixed with UV setting glue.

I did some ruff experimentation with different types of GITD here.


I do not precharge my glow.

Last night I compared the glow powder in the TCR-1 tail to the plastic glow ring in the tail of my RRT-01.

Bear in mind, without precharging, I cannot see them glow during the day, nor in the evening when the house lights are on.

After being in bed, when I wake up in the dark, I can see the uncharged glows.
The powder was slightly brighter, but the plastic glow ring, for my purpose, which is to see the light on my nightstand, is equally visible.

the powder does glow longer after being charged…

A reason to use powder, imo, is if a different color is desired:

ok i remember now, the study of heat and glowiness…

i’ll probably stick with the tape and not bother mixing powders and glues

doesn;t water ruin the glow stuff, so you can;t use wood glue?


And don’t me Shirley!

I gotta say, it’s a great looking light.

CRX - could you share your thoughts on its durability/longevity/resistance to the elements?

I think a lot of modern glow powders are individually coated particles so you can use them in just about any medium, they usually say whether they are coated or not I’m sure I read.

My stuff is never really exposed to the elements so I can’t really answer that but the UV glue is quite tough when hardened, sort of like a slightly flexible fairly tough plastic, waterproof and I would presume ok in sunlight.
The glow powder lasts years apparently and the tape is polyvinyl coated or something but these will fade or break down in direct sunlight after a time of exposure like most things I think.


I only have One Titanium TCR-1
I can help you get an Original Jetbeam RRT-01, if you send me a PM.

A Story About Lubrication for Titanium

keywords: Nyogel 760a and 767a, silicone packing grease, Nano Oil, dielectric grease, Monky Spunk


On my Titanium TCR-1, the dial was stiff, gritty, and hard to move when I first received the light. Apparently, the original grease, now 7 years old, on a shelf queen, had become stiffer with age.

I started, without disassembly, by working in a drop of Nano Oil, twisting the dial back and forth, hundreds of times, while watching netflix…
it helped.

The dial feel improved and became easier, smoother and more pleasant to turn. Most of the gritty spots got smoothed out.

But, there were still some spots that would catch, where the grease felt stiffer, or the dial felt gritty. And the resistance was still more than I would like… I wanted a feel like warm butter, this was more like cold butter… lol


Nirvana Lube:

I decided to buy some special lube for Titanium.

Today I received some Monky Spunk grease from DarkSucks and I Love the stuff. It works better than anything else I have tried on Titanium.

I put spunk on the Oring and the threads of the body and head, that were noisy and grabby before the Spunk. After twisting the threads back and forth briefly, the body and head threads became buttery smooth and silent, with very little effort.

I then worked a bit of Spunk into the side edges of the Titanium control ring (no disassembly), and all traces of grittyness have disappeared. The entire feel of the rotating ring is now warm buttery smooth. That Spunk stuff is Magic!

So, for those with gritty Ti Threads or control rings… I give an enthusiastic endorsement of the Monky Spunk. Im not affiliated, just a fan.

I have read that Nyogel 767a is a good choice when repacking the disassembled ring. I have not had a chance to try that myself.

and then one day… it happened that Kal-El, who goes by the handle of moderator007, had a spare lightsabre

which I agreed to adopt

triple dedome LH351d 3500k

moments in paradise

thanks for sharing my appreciation for these lights…

I feel fortunate to have a chance to enjoy the craftsmanship of CRX and moderator007.

also thanks for sharing your glow powder info
one of those lights still needs something to help see it on a dark nighstand

Ive also been considering tritiums

fortunately for my wallet, trits are sold out in the size and colors I want

depending on the color, glow powder can work very well

especially as a glow gasket… that gets charged when the light is used
green is very visible, blue also works well… Red is too dim to be useful

Red tritium works better than Red glow powder

but tritium is ridiculously expensive, and barely visible…
green and blue glow powders are brighter than tritium

I still have concerns about trit safety. I read something about x-rays occasionally being emitted, when the radiation particles hit the inside of the glass vial.

I have 3 small trits I purchased, but haven’t yet installed them in any light due to such concerns. Instead, I mostly make do with aux LEDs.

there is some info about xrays here

I dont really understand the implications of the xray factor

my basic understanding is that Tritium is safe as long as it is not inhaled.

my single LED Jetbeams dont have aux light options,
nor glow gasket options :wink:

I think glow tape and glow powder are the best options for my Jetbeams… and afaict, there are no safety risks from strontium aluminate