Emisar D3AA is available now

[Hikelite]

@FlashPilot

I assume it will hypothetically deliver around 8A to a single 3V emitter. Id need to strip the huge stock 7135 based driver and “air wire” in Hanks boost driver. If heat became an issue, I could solder copper straps to the boost driver outer ring to dissipate heat to the host.

It is a boost driver, it cannot deliver to 3V LEDs, the voltage output must be above voltage input, boost just means it boosts voltage.
The analogy that it is a 8A 3V driver which has been used by some before is actually misleading.

[tocirahl]

You could, however, reflow a 12V XHP50.2 on there and use this driver to deliver 1.9 (1.8?) Amps to it. Would be the same brightness as delivering ~7A to a 3V XHP50.2

[zak.wilson (Zak)]

Is the angle light going to have a head that sticks out like the Lumintop HL3A and Fireflies PL47, or is it going to be a more uniform body like the big brands?

[Mobiuscorpus]

@tactical_grizzly

@Marvin8

I was referring to the W2 hotrod. If so, that sorta takes the hotrod aspect of it away and would be a tough decision for me. Thanks

W2’s draw an unusually high amount of current under FET drive from the standard driver. I’ve heard somewhere between 5 and 7 amps per emitter. By comparison, the boost driver will provide only two amps per emitter, so in the case of W2’s, output might be cut down by as much as 50%. The stock driver is definitely the way to go for the W2 configuration.

Dammit… I guess I’ll be able to supply a side by side comparison soon enough, since I have a D4Sv2 with W2s, and I just ordered a D4Sv2 with the boost driver last night. Honestly, this might not be a bad thing for me anyway. Hot rod lights are fun, but it’s always bothered me that you can’t get max performance out of them for very long. What does one need in order to (hopefully cheaply) measure lumen output?

[Marvin8]

I would be most appreciated, Mobius.

[tactical_grizzly]

@Mobiuscorpus

@tactical_grizzly

@Marvin8

I was referring to the W2 hotrod. If so, that sorta takes the hotrod aspect of it away and would be a tough decision for me. Thanks

W2’s draw an unusually high amount of current under FET drive from the standard driver. I’ve heard somewhere between 5 and 7 amps per emitter. By comparison, the boost driver will provide only two amps per emitter, so in the case of W2’s, output might be cut down by as much as 50%. The stock driver is definitely the way to go for the W2 configuration.

Dammit… I guess I’ll be able to supply a side by side comparison soon enough, since I have a D4Sv2 with W2s, and I just ordered a D4Sv2 with the boost driver last night. Honestly, this might not be a bad thing for me anyway. Hot rod lights are fun, but it’s always bothered me that you can’t get max performance out of them for very long. What does one need in order to (hopefully cheaply) measure lumen output?

You need a lumen tube or integrating sphere and something to calibrate it with. I bought a pre-build and pre-calibrated lumen tube from BLF user Texas Ace for around $200. Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube / Sphere No math skills needed - Several spheres still available

[tocirahl]

@Mobiuscorpus

@tactical_grizzly

@Marvin8

I was referring to the W2 hotrod. If so, that sorta takes the hotrod aspect of it away and would be a tough decision for me. Thanks

W2’s draw an unusually high amount of current under FET drive from the standard driver. I’ve heard somewhere between 5 and 7 amps per emitter. By comparison, the boost driver will provide only two amps per emitter, so in the case of W2’s, output might be cut down by as much as 50%. The stock driver is definitely the way to go for the W2 configuration.

Dammit… I guess I’ll be able to supply a side by side comparison soon enough, since I have a D4Sv2 with W2s, and I just ordered a D4Sv2 with the boost driver last night. Honestly, this might not be a bad thing for me anyway. Hot rod lights are fun, but it’s always bothered me that you can’t get max performance out of them for very long. What does one need in order to (hopefully cheaply) measure lumen output?

Measuring the lux with a ceiling bounce test would get you close enough to the relative brightness difference between the two configs and wouldn’t cost anything as long as you have a smartphone with a light sensor.

[Mobiuscorpus]

@tocirahl

@Mobiuscorpus

@tactical_grizzly

@Marvin8

I was referring to the W2 hotrod. If so, that sorta takes the hotrod aspect of it away and would be a tough decision for me. Thanks

W2’s draw an unusually high amount of current under FET drive from the standard driver. I’ve heard somewhere between 5 and 7 amps per emitter. By comparison, the boost driver will provide only two amps per emitter, so in the case of W2’s, output might be cut down by as much as 50%. The stock driver is definitely the way to go for the W2 configuration.

Dammit… I guess I’ll be able to supply a side by side comparison soon enough, since I have a D4Sv2 with W2s, and I just ordered a D4Sv2 with the boost driver last night. Honestly, this might not be a bad thing for me anyway. Hot rod lights are fun, but it’s always bothered me that you can’t get max performance out of them for very long. What does one need in order to (hopefully cheaply) measure lumen output?

Measuring the lux with a ceiling bounce test would get you close enough to the relative brightness difference between the two configs and wouldn’t cost anything as long as you have a smartphone with a light sensor.

Is there an IPhone app for that? Assuming an iPhone 12 has the required sensor? I see there is an android Ceilingbounce app.

[tocirahl]

Maybe something like this?

The Best Light Meter Apps in 2023 (7 Picks).

[Mobiuscorpus]

@tocirahl

Maybe something like this?

The Best Light Meter Apps in 2024 (7 Picks).

Fantastic, thanks! I’ll definitely download one of these and use it to get some relative comparisons between my two D4Sv2s when the new one arrives.

[zak.wilson (Zak)]

@Mobiuscorpus

Is there an IPhone app for that? Assuming an iPhone 12 has the required sensor? I see there is an android Ceilingbounce app.

There is not. Apple doesn’t let apps that use the relevant API into its store, and there aren’t enough people running jailbroken iPhones to bother.

[Koronis]

There are a few iPhone apps that use the camera to measure lux, not very accurate, but still useful for doing comparisons

[NewGuy420]

Question for all about the new Noctigon DM1.12 I know its channel switching but has anyone tried flashing it with tint ramp if so does it work I’m very interested in answering this query
thanks

[tactical_grizzly]

@NewGuy420

Question for all about the new Noctigon DM1.12 I know its channel switching but has anyone tried flashing it with tint ramp if so does it work I’m very interested in answering this query
thanks

This guy on Reddit did it. He chose to use the K9.3-tintramp-nofet hex though which is not ideal, because it disabled FET drive for the flood LED’s.

The reason he chose the NOFET version, is that the fet-enabled version will only allow the flood channel to be on above level 130. The best course of action is to use the K9.3-tintramp firmware that uses get, then set ramp ceiling to level 130. That will allow you to tint ramp up to the highest level possible (130) and you’ll still have access to FET turbo on the flood channel when you want it.

[ArtieT59]

@tactical_grizzly

@NewGuy420

Question for all about the new Noctigon DM1.12 I know its channel switching but has anyone tried flashing it with tint ramp if so does it work I’m very interested in answering this query thanks

“This guy on Reddit did it.”:https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/comments/tr67r0/dm112_w1219b_mix_using/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share He chose to use the K9.3-tintramp-nofet hex though which is not ideal, because it disabled FET drive for the flood LED’s. The reason he chose the NOFET version, is that the fet-enabled version will only allow the flood channel to be on above level 130. The best course of action is to use the K9.3-tintramp firmware that uses get, then set ramp ceiling to level 130. That will allow you to tint ramp up to the highest level possible (130) and you’ll still have access to FET turbo on the flood channel when you want it.

Sorry, the whole tint ramp / channel switch stuff still confuses me. Would you do this so that you would be able to tint ramp AND channel switch on the DM1.12? Thanks!

[ArtieT59]

@tocirahl

Maybe something like this? The Best Light Meter Apps in 2024 (7 Picks).

I've been putting off downloading something like this forever, i just tried one from the link you posted. I Appreciate it!

[m03da (a bear.)]

@tactical_grizzly

Hank, will your upcoming right angle model be available with a boost driver, or with dual channels?

I’d like to ask about hopefully an eventual chance to have both-

Is there a dual channel DC-DC driver in the works? That would make the K9.3 the final light, the one to end them all.

[tactical_grizzly]

@ArtieT59

@tactical_grizzly

@NewGuy420

Question for all about the new Noctigon DM1.12 I know its channel switching but has anyone tried flashing it with tint ramp if so does it work I’m very interested in answering this query thanks

This guy on Reddit did it. He chose to use the K9.3-tintramp-nofet hex though which is not ideal, because it disabled FET drive for the flood LED’s. The reason he chose the NOFET version, is that the fet-enabled version will only allow the flood channel to be on above level 130. The best course of action is to use the K9.3-tintramp firmware that uses get, then set ramp ceiling to level 130. That will allow you to tint ramp up to the highest level possible (130) and you’ll still have access to FET turbo on the flood channel when you want it.

Sorry, the whole tint ramp / channel switch stuff still confuses me. Would you do this so that you would be able to tint ramp AND channel switch on the DM1.12? Thanks!

Unfortunately not. K9.3’s firmware has not been updated to include the option to tint ramp or instant switch. Currently they are separate firmwares. It (and DM1.12) come with the instant switching firmware by default. The K9.3 tent ramp firmware can be reflashed onto either, but it only does tint ramping.

TK may merge them in the future but that has not happened yet.

Edit: DerMaxPower says the k9.3-tintramp-nofet firmware does have both tint ramping and instant switching.

[Hank_Wang]

@RamBull

Greetings Hank,

Would it be possible to have 12x 519 and an SBT90 in your DM1.12 in a couple of weeks.

We have tried it, but it seems that the 519A LED dome is a bit too big for the optics,
and the dome will be cracked by the optics, so, it will not fit.

[Lumen9000]

@tactical_grizzly

@ArtieT59

@tactical_grizzly

@NewGuy420

Question for all about the new Noctigon DM1.12 I know its channel switching but has anyone tried flashing it with tint ramp if so does it work I’m very interested in answering this query thanks

This guy on Reddit did it. He chose to use the K9.3-tintramp-nofet hex though which is not ideal, because it disabled FET drive for the flood LED’s. The reason he chose the NOFET version, is that the fet-enabled version will only allow the flood channel to be on above level 130. The best course of action is to use the K9.3-tintramp firmware that uses get, then set ramp ceiling to level 130. That will allow you to tint ramp up to the highest level possible (130) and you’ll still have access to FET turbo on the flood channel when you want it.

Sorry, the whole tint ramp / channel switch stuff still confuses me. Would you do this so that you would be able to tint ramp AND channel switch on the DM1.12? Thanks!

Unfortunately not. K9.3’s firmware has not been updated to include the option to tint ramp or instant switch. Currently they are separate firmwares. It (and DM1.12) come with the instant switching firmware by default. The K9.3 tent ramp firmware can be reflashed onto either, but it only does tint ramping.

TK may merge them in the future but that has not happened yet.

Seems wierd to buy a 100usd+ flashlight, and the firmware is broken?

Kind of a turnoff to be frank.