I had this in sixty545 review thread here but wasn’t getting any hits probably needed it’s on thread any ways. So I’ll link this thread to my post over there unless the mods want to delete that post in the other thread. Update: Well I can delete my on post over there, that’s cool. Didn’t have that feature on the other forum.
I recently purchased the 3040ma driver from KD and can’t seem to get high mode to work more than a second or two. Has any one else had this problem before.
I soldered s2 and s4 for low,med and high per KD instructions. The OP in his first post shows for mode group 7 to solder s2. Do I solder s2 and s4 or just s2 mine are the v2 boards. I have heat sinked the boards to the pill and still can not get high mode to come on more than a second or two. Then the light goes off and does not come on again until I do a half press of the switch and goes into low mode. Low and med work fine but high shuts off almost immediately. And when measured with a DMM high mode seems to be only 1400ma or so. I have tried with several different batteries including some Panasonics and sanyo so I no its not the batteries. Seems either the thermal protection is kicking in or I have bad drivers. Or possibly the wrong pads are connected I was hoping someone might help clarify on which pads or pad to solder.
So I do have the correct pads soldered for l,m and high per KD instructions. Trying to figure out if my boards are bad tried two with the same results.
Are you sure all the connections are good and that the LED is functional? In the past I have had trouble with the ground on those drivers where it would only go on in a moonlight mode. (Bad connection)
I have done so many mods and lights with the amc7135 driver I couldn’t even begin to count them. This is the first time I have used the newer 3040ma driver. I am sure on the wiring and grounds. Tried about six times and two different boards even soldered a thin small copper wire on the ground ring and bent it over the side of the board. So that when I pushed the driver in the pill the wire would make contact with the side of the pill. Actually solder on 3 wires made a very tight fit.
Never had any problems with the 2800ma boards. I’am thinking that something is wrong with the boards. Maybe in the code.
Just so we are all on the same page and so others can use the instructions if they need it.
If the driver is cutting out in a few seconds "supposedly" it would be because of overheat protection. Photos of what you have done might help. It's possible that you have actually made the overheat worse that normal, depending on how they were potted. I have seen drivers actually short out from being covered with thermal compound. I know it should not, but I have seen it. I have also seen it where completely covering the board with compound actually makes the chips hotter than if they were exposed to air.
Are you using multiple batteries? What led or leds are you using, which light, etc... Photos are good if possible.
XML U2 led. CK 3100ma panasonic battery.
Driver was potted by the ground ring to the pill no potting on the amc7135’s. Tried with fujik glue then tried with Artic silver. I know it would be better to heat sink the actual amc’s but the ring is also connected to all amc7135 chips in parallel. This driver should not cut off this fast I would think. If its cutting off in 2 seconds heat sinking the amc’s directly to me would only prolong this feature for a little more time unless the heat sink was some what massive.
I would either try another LED or try the led you have DD and see if it seems to work properly. Also you could disconnect the led and DMM the leads from the driver to see what it is doing?
I have used several of those V2 boards and I don't care for them over the old 2800mA boards. I don't think they are bad as such, but I do think either the cutoff is set wrong on some, or it's reading at an incorrect point.
Thanks Old Lumens, I’m going to do some more testing to eliminate possibilities. I have five boards so I’ll try different boards and modes to see what happens. I’ll try one on the bench to eliminate the host. This is the host by the way. I have used the 2800ma boards without any problems in this host. I ’am beginning not to like these new smart boards. :bigsmile:
If you mean the tail cap switch, yes. When I had the DMM hooked up to measure the current. Also used a heavy gauge wire to make a direct connection without the switch. Nothing seem to change.
I have used quite a few of these drivers without an issue until the last one I used had a problem. I cant remember exactly what it was but gave up in frustration. Got up the next day and it has worked fine ever since. I never found out what it was that caused the problem.
Tried one out of the light. Used my test XML T6 thermal glued on a aluminum PC heat sink. I know it works I have used this setup several times testing drivers. No change. Tried different batteries no change. Unsoldered s2 so I had s4 soldered for high,med and flashy no change. I was only getting about 1200ma on high before it cut off. I’m going to try KD and see what they say. Never had this problem with the older 2800ma without thermal protection.
Nope, never did.
KD agreed to ship me the 105c 2800ma version to replace them if I placed a new order. New order was shipped out today.
I hope that the 2800ma version doesn’t have the same problem. Its never been a problem before in this version.
I kind of suspected the problem was in the code, but I am not sure about that.
It could have also been possible I guess, that only one side of the boards amc7135’s where connected judging by the current draw. Never tested it. Their was obviously some thing wrong. I felt a replacement was in order.
But if your having the same problem with the 105c attiny13a version then the replacement want help either.
I can let you know how it goes in a week or two when they get here.
