Hi BanL, can you please look into Order #4512, I'm still waiting for the refund for the 4 XHP70.2 LEDs that where not delivered. I have sent several emails in the last 4 or 5 weeks, but got no reply to any of them.
What single small optic or even a 20mm reflector is there for XHP50.2? And a driver to run3-4 of them in a mag light type host.
Anyone got any advise? Don’t know if I should run 4 triplets instead…?
You seem busy trying to pair optics with MCPCBs. How important actually is this? 0K, I sort of smell you are going to say “quite a lot” or in the likes. If so, asking the MCPCB seller/provider/manufacturer can be a good starting point.
I wonder how “good” would a wide hole optic, real wide (≈11mm) I mean, fit with frankenquad MCPCBs. I really like those MCPCBs, affordable and widespread. They just need some optic love, I mean, some optics specifically designed for them.
I was told (by one of your colleagues) that the XHP70.2 LEDs that I ordered were out of stock and given the option to change to a different LED or get a refund. I chose the refund (that was about 5 weeks ago), but I haven't received any reply (or the refund) since. I have sent a couple of emails after that, but got no reply either.
I think it will be clear if you have a look at the emails.
It’s a old SA police light so not exactly a mag light but I got it free and guess I gotta make something g of it. Hand grains a spacer that I will press fit then need to establish the exact height of the mcpcb/optic/reflector/lens so I can make another copper spacer for above that. Which 5x5 optic you seen? The head ID is not massive
Wellp adam7027, problem is the majority of high power leds we use here are domed.
I recently found an interesting way of dedoming emitters. Quick and neat:
This is a Nichia 219B 4500K Ra9080.
Used 7 small, stacked 0.1mm copper sheet cuts over the MCPCB surface to adjust milling depth. Six 0.1mm sheet cuts ended up being too low for an LH351B.
I've cut a few XHP50As, using a big 1mm copper plate with a hole in the middle, sliding the blade atop. That way I do not obtain a fully level cut, it ends up being a slope. I can do a couple cuts from each side and obtain an 0K to look at low hill. But I do not like that much.
Concerning washer and razor blade cut dedoming, it works but I need a washer with the right thickness. I know washers are precisely sorted by diameter, but are they by thickness? And then there is the cut which, with a washer on top, I may need to slide the blade at an angle.
With the above method I can hot glue a bunch of emitters over the table, adjust the milling depth once and make short work of 'em. If the dome surfaces end up a bit coarse, so be it.
I have a set of 4 washers for slicing the LH351D, from thick to thin, starting with the thickest to slice off the top of the dome, working my way to the thinnest one that slices just above the phosfor. The thinnest one was sanded from a slightly too thick washer to the correct thickness. The blade must be kept at a fixed angle when doing the last cut, to get the cut level.
It does require reflowing the led flat against the ledboard, or you end up cutting into the phosfor.
Yea you can buy washer in different thicknesses i personally use nylon washers when slicing. Its easier to slice straight if the LED is on a new MCPCB.
I had another idea you can buy thickness gauges and drill a hole in each thickness. These are supposed to be precision tools but when buying online be weary i wouldn’t relay on one to tell me proper bore thickness lol. We use these to gauge thickness in engine walls and stuff but it can be used a general guide any where you can’t fit a caliper. Like a spark plug gap.
Mmm those gauge blades can be very handy to adjust milling bit height precisely. Thanks for pinpointing this everydaysurvivalgear. I made a search and found bigger sets for more or less the same money: