Nice review 
i am not sure…
just putting copper between base and driver
or
active cooling? >)
Conductive paint may be conductive but it's probably not as conductive as the 0.01 ohm resistor you want to bypass. Use wire.
okay - thanks!
i think beefing up the springs and rewiring to the LEDs is necessary anyway…
IF i want to dedome some for more “throw” - which are the choosen ones?
Maybe those pads are for a connector… meaning there is likely a function that comes out of those 4 pads; one being ground of course.
Assuming the large pads are just to hold the housing and are not terminated
A stock retard light.. :D
Ok, its not retarded when stock.
IMO, I dont think gearbest got a lot of "review" by sending you this light. This was basically just a teardown with a few thoughts. Sorry, but I expected to get to know how the stock light performed when seeing a review of it.
Well documented teardown though. Looking forward to the mod, and hearing a bit about the stock driver.
In case anyone is interested in some silly bright stuff, here is my mod thread on the retard light (same host). Beamshot comparison here.
Thanks for the pics & reviews!
well RaceR86 - you are right…
more words:
the light is of medium build quality when it comes to details…
dry threads (squeaking a lot!)
since i have two of them: the diameter of the threads differ - not all parts fit on both Hosts
ano is well done
no scratches on the light or lens
using only the tailswitch is not easy with one hand!
UI:
HI - MID - LOW - STROBE - SOS
NO mode memory - after 5 secs it starts again in HIGH
the switch is a forward clicky - press half to cycle to the level you need and press full (klick) to stay there
not words, but numbers (from my HS1010A)
ceiling bounce “Lumen”
table(table#posts).
|K1200s|45|160|390||||
|K40M|0|5|91|219|360|560|
|Solarstorm T3|8|107|213||||
|Olight R20|0|96|||||
K1200s Amps over the switch
table(table#posts).
|0,4|1,4|3,5|
Lux @ 3m
table(table#posts).
|K1200s|320|1200|3000||||
|K40M mod.|2|105|1455|34500|57000|86000|
|Olight R20|190|1020|||||
Looks like low 2000’s lumen-wise. Hmmph. Definitely needs to be modded.
i “only” bridged the sense resistors…
ceiling bounce “Lumen”
table(table#posts).
|K1200s|45|160|390||||
|K1200s +|63|230|570||||
|K40M|0|5|91|219|360|560|
|Solarstorm T3|8|107|213||||
|Olight R20|0|96|||||
K1200s Amps over the switch
table(table#posts).
|0,4|1,4|3,5|
|0,75|2,66|6,8|
Lux @ 3m (actual reading)
table(table#posts).
|K1200s|320|1200|3000||||
|K1200s +|400|1600|3800||||
|K40M mod.|2|105|1455|34500|57000|86000|
|Olight R20|190|1020|||||
numbers quite fast falling due to heat i guess…
values above taken after 5 secs (where at first “flash” about 10% higher)
next: thermal management, braiding the tailswitch, thicker wires to the LEDs
Wait a sec - the reflector has to clamp down all those stars with only one little off-center stud?
off center stud??
you mean “only that one screw in the middle”?
Unless that's a gravity-defying screw and not a stud...
I think that’s just a screw sitting there in the picture with the threaded hole in the center. The picture is rotated.
what night spy says…
sorry for the missleading picture
Ah! Well, still, a single screw isn't enough. The layout is such that it could have used 4 evenly spaced.
I’ve had one of these Kinfire K1200 sitting in a box for some time now. I needed a break from Multi-multi emitter lights. Eventually I’ll start yanking out the XMLs and start grinding down Noctigons. Just haven’t been in the mood.
I like the format though.
Whalen I’m done, I’ll try to signal RaceR86 by bouncing the beam off icebergs.
On my light I used a combination of fujick (on the edge) and AS5 (in the middle under the emitters) in order to be 100% sure that all of them were nicely attached in case the pressure on them were a bit uneven after changing all the wires.
The review says the stock emitters have thermal grease, but it looks like thermal compound. Does all the emitters move around or are they well attached to the light? (just double checking what it actually is)
Many seems to assume bad thermal capabilities due to sinking output on some lights. But in many cases its more because of declining output from the driver when it heats up or input voltage drops. High chance that is the case here, even after the mod your are only pushing out around 1A to each emitter. If the stock emitters are well attached, its not likely to even measure any noticeable gain in upgrading to Noctigons. And probably less than "any noticeable gain" by upgrading thermal capabilities/management in other ways. (Unless you are talking about putting a fan on it or something that isn't that necessary at the level you have cranked it up to.) Even on well heatsinked high output lights, sag due to heat will be inevitable.
I would measure amps going from the driver to the emitters and see if its sinking over some time. Quite easy to do on that light due to the 2-piece head.
thanks for your help!
I will do that!
I have purchased the exact same light and I do not seem to be able to get the 5 modes. Basically one click turns it ON (in the high steady mode) and the following click turns it OFF. Short, long or fast clicks do not make any difference. Maybe I am missing something… thanks for the help!