King Spring mod - What do you think?

Cheers!

I planning a second 12*LED King (First with 12 Nichias) - Now with 12 XP-G2 S2 1D and not only a modded original driver, but the FET-Driver.

So, I’m currently waiting for the LEDs to arrive and started the pill aka. heatsink - but I did something else, which I want to show you.

The goal was absolute minimal resistance on the spring-side.

First, I had to remove the coating

Then I took some 0.5mm thin copper and made a fitting round disk

Drilled holes like the original board

A little soldering (It was horrible, too much cooling from the disk, it took ages to heat it up)

A little more soldering with djozz’ phosphor bronze springs

A little grinding on the original board - I need that to spread the pressure better to the copper

And finally

It works :wink:

Nice……

Cheers David

Amazing work, very sturdy and clean i must say copper doesnt handle the soldering iron / heat very well and oxidizes quite rapidly, This definitely looks it has met its match… Cheers!

Cool, it seems you are going the Noctigon M43 path with the copper plate at the end of the flashlight.

You sure have a nice bottom now.

Sorry couldn't resist that. Seriously though, that is a very sweet mod.

I’ve done the same thing on my Supfire M6 too a while back. It worked great. I didn’t have the tools and precision like you did, but its functional. (It’s so ugly I don’t like to show it lol)

Nice work L4M4. :beer:

Very nice work.

What the others said. Nice work. Its good to see djozz springs getting a mention. There definitely a couple of rungs up the ladder than normal springs.

Love the work (man, I wish I had space for a lathe, even a little hobby one. oh, and a drill press. and… and… :stuck_out_tongue: ), but have to ask… Is there a noticeable difference using djozz’s phosphor-bronze springs when you use a bypass?

I would have figured that all the current would go straight down the copper braid and entirely bypass the springs.

“noticeable” - surely not.
It just gives me a nice feeling, that the springs have low resistance, too - even with copper braiding.

Perhaps I should have said “measurable”…

but anyways I can understand the urge to put the good stuff in, even when it’s not, strictly, necessary.

Nice work, but wouldn’t you get less resistance by bridging the wires directly between the springs? Something like this:

Not as nice looking but doesn’t require any special springs.

If the Cells would be in Series - Yes.
But they aren’t, so No :wink:
The current still has to go through the spring to the case.

Doh! Of coarse… Been fooling around with my series conversions for so long I’ve forgotten parallels exist :slight_smile: