I tried filling in the inside of the metal button around the post with flat rubber. For the filler I used a section of 3.5mm thick o-ring. It filled the gap but stuck out too far so I shaved it short with an x-acto knife.
I then reassembled the light with nothing inside the button boot. No nubbin.
The result is very encouraging:
- Firm click on cycling the switch.
- No missed clicks (where you hear a click, but the switch fails to cycle)
- Pressure required to activate the switch increased from stock 350g to 2900g. This amount of resistance is almost twice as much as I’d like, so I’ll play around with adding filler inside the boot to try to get it just right
It looks like the reason why my v1s’ switches were so much easier to mod than my v2, was that my v1s’ metal button boots came with filler preinstalled due to including a trit slot. It might be that there is no real change between the v1 and v2 switches at all.
Update: In addition to the above, I inserted a ring cut from sheet polystyrene plastic inside the button boot. The ring is like the white plastic ring cut from an insulating disk, but thinner. This reduced activation pressure to about 1800g. This is still slightly firmer than I’d like it, but is a vast improvement over stock.
I’m quite happy with the KR1AA now that I know how to mod the switch so no lockout is needed. About the only thing this light needs is a thicker clip and to come in Ti-Cu.