The NTG LEDs that Hank uses in the KR1AA are consistently Rosy.
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Woohoo! I just got shipping notice on my V3 Silver!
Hank has Updated the design:
- Head is not glued, battery is changed through the head.
- Physical lockout now works by loosening the head.
- The tailcap can stay closed all the time.
- switch has higher resistance
Win Win Win Win!
Video:
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Not now but in the next days I will reply to you
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And I have one in the Fireflies L50 Sol, it’s an excellent true neutral to my eyes, perhaps the faintest hint of pearl, but only after shining my D3AA with SFT-25R for a while and then changing over do I notice it. Same as the SFT looks greener after shining anything rosy.
But, as we know, there have been big differences from one bin to another.
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congrats.. which LED did you choose?
Which LED is in your KR1AA and can you show a photo of both beams side by side?
L50 Sol has FFL5009R 5000K CRI95. Its boxed and up for sale due to being impractical as a head torch and having a flimsy clip. The beam is absolutely lovely though, as is the design of the light.
KR1AA has NTG50 2700K CRI95
Very different beasts.
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I asked Hank about a midnight blue KR1AA, and he said he has no plan to make one.
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oh well…blue and green d3aa it is!
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Just now noticed the new tube looks much more similar to the KR4 design, at least as far as it ending below the head threads on the tube. The V1 (and V2?) are more like the FW3A (FWAA?) and TS10. I’ve said it a bunch of times, but I haven’t had any trouble out of my V1 KR1AA. Hopefully the newest one will be the same.
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The TS10 is weird. It uses a design I haven’t seen anywhere else. It uses the outer tube for the switch connection and the inner tube for power. This makes it uniquely tricky to measure how much current it’s using.
All the other dual-tube tail-e-switch designs I’ve seen did it the other way, using the outer tube for power and inner tube for switch.
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I wonder if it’s for economy of space. Keeping the power related stuff near the battery/power source, putting the periphery stuff further out?
**I imagine they probably cut down alot of contact requirements this way…if the switch related stuff is all outside, the shortest route is along the outside, hits the controller, then triggers the inside power related stuff. I haven’t taken their lights/boards apart, so maybe I’m wrong.
TacGriz just tested the pressure level of Hank’s new KR1AA switch at 980 grams pressure on center, and 650 grams pressure on edge.
fwiw it is also possible to do an O ring mod to original switches.. the O ring mod pressure is a little higher than Hanks new switch:
Switch Pressure Summary:
OG KR1AA switch about 1 pound pressure
New Hank switch about 2 pounds pressure
O ring mod to OG switch, about 3 pounds pressure.
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Which one do you like the best? My oring mods work pretty good
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I dont know yet.
Waiting to compare my O ring mod to the new Hank switch, that should get here in a few days.
Switch Pressure Summary:
OG KR1AA switch 17 oz
TS10SG switch, 26 oz
New Hank switch 34 oz
O ring mod to OG switch with no magnet 46 oz
O ring mod to OG switch with magnet 52 oz
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Jon sorry for delay..
I try to measure the FFL5000 3 times and I am speechless.. SP10 Pro lvl 4 of stepped
probably is not super correct but I try also with SW35 and is good so…this is the screenshot
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Congrats! and thank you for the FFL 5000K data..
That looks like a really nice 5400K daylight white, with Opple duv -0.0013.. I used your xy coordinates to plot this:
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Yes is very beautiful!
For you it’s an honour
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I’m really on the fence about getting another KR1AA due to the emitters available, 4 x NTG and 3 x SFT. Sudden drop to 73CRI of the SFT 5000K, or the NTG 5000K running at 5400 candela, which isn’t much higher than my 2700K version.
This is the reason I don’t have one yet, none of the emitter choices are compelling to me.