Interesting. The top piece looks more like what I would expect a chicken breast on the grill to look like…
I have to guess that it was lit with a lower CRI light? 
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correct the top half is Low CRI 
you are not alone in mentioning the less red top half of the pic is what some people see as normal grilled chicken color..
here is a more graphic image, of cat scratch injuries, showing the difference in skin tones.. left is low cri:
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I have only one light with sst20 - speras m10 which is aaa sized light which only takes alkalines or nimh. And it is attrociosly green. But has decent candela for edc 5 cd/lm which is on par with kr1aa with sft70.
Lanapple is cool light. I have green aluminum version. Great feel in hand. The main downside is driver is not very efficient. Only 50 lumen sustainable on nimh is really underwhelming. Convoy dual fuel 1.5a or 5a driver pretty sure will beat it. But reylight has ace that it has proper moonlight mode.
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One frustration with kr1aa series that led selection was influenced by desire to have crazy top lumens for 14500 size. If we restrict top brightness to 600 lumen which is more than enough in a given class then we can host something like nichia 719a.
NTG50 looks ridiculously large in such small body.
Usually you expect such large les led in 21700 light)))
A lot of people will trade top turbo numbers for better candellas per lumen.
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a lot of people wanted the KR1AA to be a thrower, but it is not, partly because it uses a frosted optic instead of a reflector
I have never seen anyone post a throwy KR1AA. (with over 6cd/lm, and High CRI)
fwiw, the 719a uses 3535 solder pads, so it is not a direct fit in a KR1AA, which uses 5050 solder pads.
if you want a 719a, consider a Zebra SC65, its 719a at 660 lm, reaches about 15cd/lm, because it does use a reflector.
or if you want a 14500 light with a reflector and Anduril.. look at the Lumintop FW1AA.
I burned my pocket with a KR1AA at 620 lumens, ceiling 110/150 (turbo disabled):
I now set ceiling to level 90/150, about 330 lumens w a 4200K NTG…
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The KR1AA driver is a modified version of the D3AA boost driver, so 719A is basically the only 3535 LED Hank could reasonably have used. With the output and colour rendering demands many enthusiasts have now, it wouldn’t have been anywhere near as popular as the NTG50 and SFT-70 versions.
I can make you a 719A KR1AA if you really want it.
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what ceiling and lumens do you set it to?
and what candela does it achieve, considering that the stock optic is frosted for diffusion?
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Yes, high duv makes green things greener, but some folks like telling green things from brown things, and not all low-CRI lights can do that.
That’s a bit concerning.
It’s a little tricky to tell what there is the CRI, what is the duv, and what is simply the R9. That last one is a huge one when dealing with skin tones. These are all high-CRI:
I’m curious what bin. Maybe you should swap in an FA4.
The 719a can get up around 1,200 as well. However, contrary to popular belief, it is possible to set Anduril up to limit your light lower rather than impose your self-imposed restrictions EVERYONE.
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I would set it to 2A; 719A can handle higher current, but the colour rendering really starts to break down. I don’t know what candela it would produce, but it should be somewhat more throwy than SFT-70.
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Most flashlighters with dogs know the pain LOL.
I agree…top looks like egg or cauliflower, bottom looks like pork…
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I have skillhunt m150 with F35r led which has around 16 cd/lm if product page to be believed. Yesterday finally had the chance to do small break during the weekend with family and stay in place near the beach. Honestly speaking even D3AA with nichia 519a (it equipped with throwest optics mostly for looks) mostly was enough to walk outside of hotel. For edc 16 cd/lm generally I find non practical compared to 3-8 cd/lm range.
I suspect you can design throwy tir for led of nichia 719a size. We have multiple selection of optics for d3aa so there could be throwy options for kr1aa in theory. But agree in the end there should be market to justify RnD
Will be interesting to do a pull how many people prefer better color rendering + output vs better throw.
Appreciate your offer! I do not think I want it enough to bother you with it. My plan simply buy D3AA with sft25r which should close niche of anduril light with 8 cd/lm.
Then I can compare D3AA nichia, kr1aa SFT70 and D3AA sft25r
excellent info
glad you know what works for your application
fwiw, not the whole phosphor area actually lights up:
(not my photo, for illumination purposes only)
thats actually an FFL351a.. but same source and phosphor coverage as NTG50.. you can actually see in your photo that the phosphor spreads past the active electrical surface just the same
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Light on the right is a perfect poop finder, just look at the extra colours added to the cut grass stems. Which emitter/torch is it?
good observation,
that tells me it is a High CRI LED
(Im guessing the LED on the left is not High CRI)
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For “dog duties” my secret tip is UV light at night.
It doesn’t make the dog stuff light up though.
It increases contrast so much that it makes it easy to find what you are looking for.
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Finnaly got KR1AA SFT70 5000K light. Cool gear. From the first impression I understand why many people love it.
SFT70 definitely has a green tint but for me workable, I am more tolerant to green and it miles better than mine speras m10 sst20, call it a win 
For candela it definitely more concentrated compared to D3AA. I believe spec number for it to be correct whichare stated around 5 cd / lm
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