This looks very interesting: ARCHON D15VP 1300LM Two-in-One Professional Diving Video&Spot LED Flashlight 100M
On sale right now with code [97f7d3], $10 off.
I don’t have personal experience with this light, but Archon is one of the reliable dive light makers. I know several people that have other models that work well. I’m tempted but have so many other dive lights it’s hard to make a case for yet one more.
what you think of the double head MDL-029 at fasttech?
looks versatile and Price is low, but don’t know if water will enter.
Suitable for ‘wet’ applications. Would not take it diving.
Where did you read it?
Description and photos say ‘’Diving IPX8 60M’’
I see only this on your link:
[For a variety of outdoor activities such as:sport fishing,night riding,camping,emergency rescue,mountaineering,caving,etc.] Diving is not listed. I’d think if it was, it would clearly say so.
[Waterproof IPX8 ]
IP = International Protection rating
X = Dust ingress not specified/tested.
8 = Can be immersed beyond 1M.
That’s all. The actual depth and time it can remain underwater as well as how much dynamic pressure it can withstand are entirely up to the manufacturer, the details of which they are supposed to divulge in the product specifications. No details means the IPX8 rating is invalid.
Hey, it’s $21. Go for it, report back…… 
You want a dive light, get a DIVE light. 
ok thanks 
Follow up on SEA-CK TS100 L2 U2 1000Lumens 4Modes Waterproof Diving LED Flashlight 50M
Took 2 on a tropical trip. One survived 31 dives, the other about 25. It ended up with a cracked lens and flooded. The area we were in had current occasionally and the bottom was frequently a mix of sand and rubble. I’m pretty sure the light that died got jammed into the bottom with some force and hit a rock. I don’t consider this a problem with the light, more a problem with the diver. 
The flooded light was disassembled. It had multiple dives and reasonable rinsing. There is a semi-clear O-ring under the lens which is held in place by a screwed in blue aluminum ring. It wasn’t too bad to get out, not corroded in place after this level of use. FWIW, the battery got a bit wet, some electrolysis on the top, but seemed to have survived the experience with a bit of cleanup and new shrink wrap.
The switch surprisingly was fine, one of my original areas of concern. I expected there to be a fair amount of rust on the magnet and spring like I’ve seen in other cheap dive lights, but they were completely clean. I HAD proactively silicone greased everything, including the screws, before diving it but in this case I don’t think that made a huge difference except maybe in the screws. There was a tad of rusting on them. I find pretty much everything metal has issues with saltwater over time.
It’s a decent light. Often less than $20 on sale, easy to carry, adequate light in tropical situations. I find it a bit dim for day dives in murky NW cold water. Modes are pleasantly easy to work with and the switch seems solid. On medium it’s good for at least 2 dives, only 1 on high.
Mine came with some brown silicone O-rings. Tried silicone dive grease on one of them and they swelled up and wouldn’t fit after awhile. Replaced with neoprene and that worked fine. Only used grease specified for silicone O-rings on the other light and those O-rings are still going fine.
Flooded light replaced with DV-S9 which worked out well. It’s just a bit larger to carry. OTOH a 26650 would last a lot longer if you used one. The spot is a tad more focused on the DV-S9.
Two Nitesun flashlights in cold dark water :
Whoa…
If I saw a huge bull-like thing underwater, I think I’d want to get up to the surface right quick.
I’d attach a buoy on that buffalo, go get a boat, and drag that back to the surface. Nice front lawn ornament.
Those are some nice videos. Nice to see dive light makers actually send them to diver’s to review
Current discussion of the SD03: [Review] Sofirn SD05 Diving 21700 Flashlight
Or a big honkin’ 2×26650 dive-light!
Kind of an underwater L6. 
I’d like to revisit this “diving lights” message thread.
Usually when someone asks me for “diving” flashlights, I immediately point them to the Sofirn ‘diving’ series flashlights (DF10, SD02A, SD05, WK20, WK20S, DL40, etc)
However, some are concerned that these (comparatively) low-cost diving flashlights may easily corrode when used in salty/sea-water environments. Usually reviews of these diving flashlights test their beam, brightness, water-resist/water-proof (in shallow fresh water), but it’s hard to find anyone who has actually used them in deeper diving, and reporting about how any of the Sofirn “diving” flashlights (or other similar-priced diving flashlights) fare when used with salt/sea-water.
Would anyone know how long before the anodizing of the diving light starts to corrode? (As I understand, corroding will surely happen when used in saltwater, but how quickly would be the question)… Any comments or experiences?
Hello, d_t_a. Anodizing, per se, does not corrode, but of course the aluminum underneath will corrode anywhere the anodizing is worn or scratched. I have several of the Sofirn-built lights you mentioned, which do not have the highest quality anodizing, and have used them repeatedly in saltwater. I also rinse them in fresh water after use, and there is no corrosion of the aluminum after a year or so, except where there are scratches. For reference, I have seen hard-anodized sailboat masts that show no signs of corrosion after twenty years, except around fastener holes or areas of wear. For that matter, I have seen twenty-year-old non-anodized masts that are structurally just fine. In the presence of oxygen, bare aluminum quickly forms a layer of aluminum oxide which acts a protection against further corrosion. There is lots of info on the web about this. For example: https://www.quora.com/Will-aluminum-corrode-easily-if-submerged-entirely-in-water .
Perhaps of more concern than the degradation of the aluminum material itself is the freezing up of buttons, bearings, and/or rotary rings due to corrosion. This is the main reason I carefully rinse and lube my dive lights.
Thanks for sharing your experience and the effects of corrosion on aluminum! I’ve underlines your quote which I can relay to others if they ask me regarding corrosion of the Sofirn diving lights.
I dive often in all kinds of conditions. I bring two lights with me on every dive.
For a while I was using the DGX600 and DGX800 lights and had a bunch of them. Had one flood (fill with water due to seal failure) on the first dive and it was replaced under warranty. One other one stopped working for no apparent reason, and a third one flooded because I loaned it to someone who twisted it apart underwater and flooded it because they were trying to turn it on and weren’t sure which way to turn.
I have recently switched to the Princeton Tec Torrid. It’s an 8xAA light, 500 lumens. It has a side switch so if I loan it out it won’t end up twisted apart and flooded. I also have a Princeton Tec Impact, a 4xAA light with the same twist switch that the DGX600 uses, that I will be keepin g as a backup light. These are somewhat more bulky than 18650 lights but I like Eneloops because I believe it is safer to handle the cells with less of a risk of fire if the cells are dropped on a boat or something.
There are three use cases for dive lights:
On daytime dives typically the daylight colors are distorted with reds being absorbed by water with the algae present in freshwater absorbing much of the blue-green spectrum also. A major use of a dive light on these dives is to improve color rendition. Even a low-CRI light with a high color temperature will restore color perception to a considerable degree. Also on daytime dives the lights are used for looking into shaded areas, under ledges and behind rocks and so on.
On night dives the environment is surreal. A higher CRI light would be a luxury but perhaps not important. Typically on these dives the light will be on for the duration of the dive. A typical dive is 45 minutes with more experienced divers (who use less air as they become more comfortable under water) being able to dive for as long as 75 minutes with the equipment most commonly used. So the runtime on the light has to be somewhat more than 75 minutes and beyond that doesn’t matter much.
I don’t dive caves or wrecks. This is where canister lights were traditionally used to achieve longer runtimes and higher intensities during the halogen and HID era. Some still use canister LED lights although there has been a move to handheld lights. The runtime on some of these dives is considerable with rebreather divers able to stay down for many hours.
Anyway I set up my kit the same way for day and night dives, with a primary light and backup light. The lights must have provisions for a lanyard at the tailcap since that is how they attach to my rig, they have to be operable with thick gloves on, and have to be good for 75 minutes. I don’t usually dive past 100’ deep (30m) and never past 130’ (40m). Those are fairly typical maximum depths for most people, there’s a technical diving community out there that goes past that but rarely much deeper than about 200’ and hardly ever past 300’.