How did you guys get this number? Was it from the LED manufacturer’s suggestion, or theoretical calculation, or made a prototype?
What you’re saying is that we’d need a silver heatsink because the standard copper/aluminum don’t suck heat fast enough?
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I’m thinking that heat transfer is throttled by its lowest transfer material in the chain…a.k.a. the heatsink.
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Actually, there are 3535 LEDs that can approach the 5050 package, featuring four San’an 43/45mil chips and using CREE’s xhp35.2 solder pads, with a universal xhp35.2HI light-emitting surface size. They can achieve 2700lm at 3.24V8A, with an upper limit of 3600lm, and have a light efficiency very close to 50.3HI at lower current states. The SuperLED+ model is FL3505D
There is also a 5050 LED that can approach the 7070 package, featuring 9 specially selected San’an 45mil chips, not compatible with CREE xhp50 solder pads. At 3.06V10A, it boasts an ultra-high luminous flux of 4300lm, significantly higher than the 50.3HI’s 3600lm (and the VF of 50.3 is much higher than his), and is basically consistent with the 70.3HI’s 3V 10A current luminous flux. This LED chip’s limit is close to 9000lm, and due to the chip’s characteristics, its VF is very low. The NightWatch code is N5-165HPE++
If you need a universal thermal pad and a universal light-emitting surface, there is also one that uses four specially selected San’an 55mil chips, which is also about to be launched. It is estimated to have a combined improvement of 25%+ in upper limit and luminous efficiency compared to 50.3. The model number is FL5008D, and the upgraded version will be FS5008X, using special processes to reduce thermal resistance, and the upper limit can be increased by about 40%
For high color rendering, China’s high color rendering can reach the highest CRI97-98 level, with an R9 of 97, and it boasts excellent light color (which can also be customized to a low DUV pink hue). Its luminous efficiency is also much higher than that of CREE’s phosphors
The above LEDs are all San’an chips and packaged in China
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Who is selling this LED?
I appreciate your sharing this information, and the development of new LEDs, although if they are not distributed outside of a small circle, I won’t be acquiring them, but that’s ok because it is already relatively easy to draw as much power from a single 21700 as it is capable of providing, with only a few LEDs, and in a small form factor flashlight.
I don’t mind larger package sizes because the optic can float above the LED package, it doesn’t need to go around it, and the larger package will accommodate a thermal pad that covers the entire surface area of the emitter, which is preferable.
NightWatch, commonly known as Lao Wang by Chinese enthusiasts 
,customized this LED. Do you know the Night Patrol A54U? The latest version of which uses four 5165++ LEDs.I remember you ordered some 5050 high color rendering LEDs from a fan here before, and he should be able to help you buy these.(emm,sth. off topic: the high cri leds called fl5009r seem to come from me)
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emm，correction：the flashlight is called Nightwatch A54U
surprised you’re here too
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I love that we’re getting more and more people from the Chinese community posting on BLF. There used to be the global flashlight people, and the Chinese flashlight people who did completely different things.
It’s great to get some insights into what is happening in the Chinese enthusiast scene this way, especially since you are making crazy cool LEDs and lights.
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I’ve read the datasheet and it’s super short and doesn’t have much information, probably because it’s still in the r&d like the datasheet said, version v0.
Peak current 6A12V doesn’t look like promising much.
Vf 11.2V@5A
Lm 6000lm@5A
Rated 5A
Peak 6A
Tj 125°C
That’s all about it, literally no curve or something.
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Where did you find those numbers? I know this is an old(er) topic, but in the table in the first post, the SFQ60 is listed as max. 19A and max. 4300lm.
There is also a 7070 SFQ60 listed by Kaidomain (LHT Flashlight Store), on Aliexpress:
I did some measurements of the LES, based on the photo from KD in that listing, and I came to roughly a 9,0mm² LES, which is slightly bigger than the 7,8mm² in the table from that topic I mentioned above.
Would be interesting to know some more information about these LED’s! (Also because I also have a 7070 SFQ60 (from KD) that I’m planning to use in a flashlight.)
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What does that mean in layman’s terms ?
Are you saying that using this led in a flashlight like a convoy m21h would only be 3% cooler than the regular LEDs like xhp 70.3 ?
Is that what you’re saying?
It means shyn bryt lyk uh dai mun…
The thermal path, similarly to an electrical path, depends heavily on its weakest conductor. You could have an entire path of silver, but if it is directed to an aluminum path of similar build, that aluminum becomes the bottleneck. In the same way, unless there is proportionately enough contact surface and mass to wick away the heat at least as fast as the diamond conducts or transfers it, the benefits would be minimal because of the bottleneck mentioned above.
So if the whole head of the flashlight was made out of diamonds it would be able to whisk away heat almost perfectly efficiently, but that does not mean that the head would not get hot right ?
The head would still get very hot?
I was talking to chat GPT about this the other day asking it to explain to me if it’s possible to create an LED that does not get hot in the first place, and it told me that it would have to be made out of some kind of a photonic Crystal metamaterial, but theoretically that it’s possible
The head will get as hot as the heat being dissipated, lol. The bottleneck would be air, hand meat, gloves, or whatever medium the light is suspended in contact with at that point.
The LED and components will have less thermal buildup over time, as more of the energy is being efficiently transferred out to the heat dump/heatsink. But, the sink would have to be pretty massive with lots of surface area to run “cool” to the human touch.
That’s what I thought. I hope one day someone makes an led that doesn’t get too hot in the first place.
I think that has to do with the how efficiently the led can convert electricity into photons which currently is nowhere near 100% efficient
You could always under drive the LED to only as much light as you NEED, i.e. between 1-300 lumens, which should be right around 1A max, or like 3-5 Watts. It’ll get grossly warm, like a crotch in dark sweats on a hot summer day, but it’ll be tolerable. If you settle for around 200-250lms, it’ll be about as uncomfortable as hot dog breath on your arm, and IMO the most ideal temp/brightness lies between 50-120 lumens of well focused 3700k high CRI light. It’ll be around internal body temps at that brightness, a balmy 95ish F.
I disagree completely, 200 lumens is not even close to bright enough for me, when I’m doing most things like fixing stuff around or behind the house or on my car
The only exception being when I wake up at 2:00 in the morning to go pee, 20 lumens is plenty, but the vast majority of time I prefer having somewhere between 800 to 1200 lumens
That also being said I very rarely use over roughly 1400 lumens such as the max output of my zebra light sc600 w
Looks like there’s a lot of personal preference at play. When I wake up in the middle of the night, even 3lm from the moonlight mode of a 5a buck driver is way, way too much. 20 would be absolutely blinding. This is with a lot of ambient light through the window, too.
It’s pretty amazing how much stuff you could see with very few lumens, if you let your eyes adjust.
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