They can be found in Threads here in the forum regarding these LEDs. Members Köf3 and djozz have posted many pics. Köf3 puts a copyright on his, so would have to ask him.
You can use my pictures here.
I can provide you close up pics of any LED I have (mostly Nichia). Just let me know how should I shoot it (within my camera’s limits of course).
- Clemence
I just noticed that you already added the Nichia 144A, but not in the correct size.
Here is the datasheet.
It's much bigger than XP-sized LEDs, more like an XM-LED, 50x50mm.
Cool thanks guys, I will go through them when I can.
Very sneaky them changing the package size without telling me 
The USB port connection tip was a nice touch LOL
That’s really helpful!!!
Some helpful flashlight resource links altogether. Want to add a new resource http://tacticalflashlightguide.com
Good Job!! Thank you do that :THUMBS-UP:
Hi,
Great post.
Awesome post,artfully done.
I`ll be back.
Superbly Done!!
Thank You Thank You Thank You
This is truly amazing and extensive! You could use this to create a course curriculum for a 2-day seminar. 
Here’s a couple missing LED V/I graphs for the OP
Here’s corrected version of the ANSI Cree binning chart with the CCT and BBL lines in their right places.
D-c-fix link might be in order: D-c-fix diffusion film
Thermal paste vs. graphite thermal pad:“https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/56535”
hi
i have a basic question
what is a DTP mcpcb and diffrences with no DTP board?
We use basically three types of MCPCB (Metal Core Printed Circuit Board)
The difference between DTP (Direct Thermal Pad) vs Non-DTP is mostly due to how the centre solder pad of the board is connected to the rest of the MCPCB.
Most of the LEDs we use have three soldered connections, a positive, negative and thermal pad.
They are made roughly as illustrated below:
The first aluminium board has an insulating layer (yellow) between the central heat pad solder point and the base of the MCPCB, this is bad for conducting heat away from the LED which is very important in higher current applications.
In the second diagram you can see how the base copper is not obstructed by an insulating layer at the central thermal pad connection and so the LED thermal pad is soldered directly to the whole of the base, very good for wicking heat away from the LED.
In the third version there is a very thin layer (microns) of aluminium oxide or ceramic type material insulating the thermal pad from the rest of the board but this version is also extremely good at removing heat from the LED as the layer is so thin.
This type of board can also have an added advantage because the thermal pad is electrically isolated from the rest of the board which some setups require.
Those 3030 20mm boards in last picture are copper DTP, these are Alu-oxide:
https://led4power.com/product-category/mcpcbs/mosled-extreme/
You can use picture of IR LEDs as example of mcpcb with LED installed:
https://led4power.com/product-category/infrared-leds/
The alu board weighs less and is easier to file to size as well.
It’s not the best for every use but overall my favourite kind of MCPCB.
thank you
i have a normal non-DTP copper core mcpcb.because in my region there isn’t DTP mcpcb and i cant order that!
so can i scratch center pad of non-DTP mcpcb to reach copper core an then solder LED’s center pad directly to that scratched surface for maximum heat transfer?is that a right and effective way?
CRX - I see that type 1 mentions alu substrate. This may make people think that all copper PCBs are DTP. I suggest to amend that for clarity.
yoosefheidari - yes. It’s cumbersome but doable and working.