interested in 2 each of the 17mm and 20mm
Interested in 2x 17mm for now. Will there be firmware options to choose from? Or at least some decent default firmware??
Everything will be shipped with default firmware. I would like to see some devs in the community play around with it and write some of their own if there are people with that skill with arduino in here.
There is quite alot of potential with firmware.
Thank you. Where can I get more info on the default firmware?
And an update on pricing.
Ive got my initial quote in and component costs are just shy of $20 per board, so we are looking at $1962 total component cost for 100 boards and fabrication costs of the PCB and assembly.
We are not going to be much below $30 per board if at all by the time I get charged with import tax at my end.
Would like to feel out how much everybody is prepared to pay for a driver, and would need to fill in most of the orders before we go ahead.
If I cant get enough orders in, I may have to opt for a lower amount produced perhaps 50 boards, but this will likely increase the cost per board further.
Hope this helps.
30$ for custom (almost one-off) and so powerful driver looks OK to me
You won't be seeing any similar soon... If it's easy for everyone to build one it would be done already
I’m in for one please if this is still open and happening
Guess I would need the fet switch too, doubt I can make one
There is a difference between 1) the production costs, 2) the value of this driver: how unique is it compared to what is around, and 3) what I’m prepared to pay for it.
1) I do not know but you will find out, 2) I think as a custom driver that has unique performance it may be worth over 20 dollar, but 3) for my flashlight builds that is too much, I would pay between 10 and 15 dollar most.
So if under 15 dollar, I would like one
Interested in at least 2 of each and fet tail boards, 4 or more of them
How much would you want to pay for a FET/tail board?
One unit requires 2 seperate boards, and that means 2 seperate sets of assembly setup costs.
For these boards, Ive been putting together the price of the components and its going to be at least $10 worth of parts per board.
Might be able to get the price down from the manufacturer in China, but we are easily looking at the best part of $20 per set of boards at a guess.
It would be much cheaper to just supply the boards for each person to assemble, its not that difficult to solder the SMD parts, just need patience and use tweezers and a fine tipped soldering iron.
If it's easier to assemble FET switch than driver then i could use 2 as well...
I have both of those items, and experience, and I am willing to give it a try. Age however has taken a toll on my eye sight and the steadiness of my hands so I lack a bit of confidence when SMD’s get too small
I’m gonna have to learn to do it sometime so I would go for parts.
Yup, its much easier to assemble this than the driver board.
If the soldering on the driver was that easy for the driver, I would do it myself too, the hardest parts to solder is the microcontroller and the temperature sensor IIRC.
I can probably get the costs for a pair of boards down to around $5 I think.
Will confirm later.
I guess that’s going to be too rich for my blood I think. Not to mention that I completely forgot the fact that tailcap mod is required.
I have one that’s been used here and there for months using the factory omten switch in a convoy S2+. I did however add a wire bypass to the switch.
The omten switches are cheap if one fails. This driver has a soft start function that seems to contribute to the switch surviving where it shouldn’t. This driver pushes the switch to it’s limit and beyond so your mileage may vary on how long it will last. Also the GFS16 Fet switch board is all that’s needed to turn the switch into a high current one. The add-on led board just adds some battery level indicator function to the switch.
What is a safe and reliable option for the tail switch?
I fixed the miss spelling of the GFS16 fet switch.
The reliable is the GFS16 Fet switch. That was the reason Loneoceans created it. From his writings, I think he said he had omten switches that melted. I haven’t experienced that yet in the bypassed switch on mine. I have both switches in two different S2+ lights using this driver and both are working fine but the omten switch in heavy use would probably not last long. I’m just stating that one can use the factory omten switch if bypassed and not used frequently. The way to go is difinitely the GFS16 Fet switch for reliability and heavy use.