[M4D deal ALIVE]: Astrolux S43S really US$ 27.00 + review video + pics + LEGO

Aha! Thanks. Four clicks does the lockout. Triple click does batt check. But Double click is straight to Turbo, so I guess that one was changed.

EDIT: Oh, pleasant surprise! (although it makes sense) Four clicks from lockout un-locks it. In Andúril, the only way to un-lock is power-cycle. But Andúril also has momentary mode during lock-out, which is probably why it is set that way.

EDIT AGAIN: To show that the button presses have registered for lock and un-lock, it blinks the main LED after the fourth button press. Also, when the lock-out is activated, the side button indicator LEDs go out as well.

Ohh, forgot - dbl click to turbo, then another dbl click to strobe.. From losing brain cells every day I guess...

Yes, I intentionally kill the switch LED when locked out, figuring why have it on in a pocket or bag, but who knows if that was correct think'n.

Well, I like it anyway. It’s a quick visual clue that the light is NOT ready to use, while the button being lit means the light IS ready to be used. :wink:

Yes, I had exactly that in mind! Dunno, just seemed to make some sense.

I just got my S43S. Impressive output alone on just a 18350. :open_mouth:

I don’t know if you guys are aware that this flash besides venerable strobe also has a hidden ‘Turbo-Knockout’ mode. You don’t even need to switch it on though to get to this useful part of the UI. Short tube, long tube, doesn’t matter.

Just take it in your hand and throw it as hard as you can at an attacker. If you hit him square in the forehead :person_facepalming: I GUARANTEE his kids will be born dizzy and he’ll be seeing copper tinted stars in his phuck*n sleep for the rest of his criminal life.

Is the head by any chance made out of actually DEPLETED URANIUM with just a thin copper outer jacket?

PS. Btw wear steel toe boots when you handle this thing. If you happen to drop it on a bare toe at let’s say 5’ or so I also GUARANTEE you WILL loudly vocalize expletives hereto unknown except perhaps in sailor bars.

With the glass breaker and the depleted uranium, it's one potent weapon for sure...

I dremel'ed open the bezel opening by bout 0.75 mm and sanded down the crenelation so I got just 5 remaining small black stripes left on top (gaps between the peaks). Looks kind of cool now and it got about a 6% bump (measured on the full 7135 output). Also replaced the tail double springs with a beryllium copper one from the group buy and that also got a bump at turbo. Here's pics:

So it recovered some of the lost lumens - beam pattern is ok for what it is. Might spend more time on this though - think more can be done. I want to eliminate the black completely on that inner edge, bevel the shape. In the pics it's only sanded to 600 grit - will go up to 2000 or 2500 for the final finish, and even the outer edge is a bit sharp so will smooth that out. The best lens will still lose like 2% but I'm thinking this one is losing more like 5%. I'll check if I have any UCL's around that will fit.

Wait, you replaced the stock double springs with a single BeCu spring and got a bump in output?

I’m starting to regret not buying some of those Blue springs. :person_facepalming:

I’ll have to wait for round 2 now. :frowning:

Yes, definitely. I did quick tests in my PVC tube light box before/after on the same cell and on turbo, not re-charged, so if anything, the bump is more than I measured. But please note I did measure a higher reading when using a 6" 10 AWG wire in place of the tailcap, so thinking the BeCu springs may still not be as good as a 20 AWG bypass, but not sure.

I recommended to Tracy at Sofirn to use these BeCu springs on the new Q8's/SP36/whatever, but we've recommended this before to them in development of the Q8. Think the cost was the problem, maybe availability, not sure.

Ohh - you can wait a long time for round 2 because these Astrolux design issues existed form the 1st S41's and replicated thru all the models til the S43S -- no improvements, since May 2016. And for Astrolux, dunno who is there to talk bout design issues.

Noticed in an early review here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/40023, it was mentioned the S41 was manufactured by Manker, but Manker and BG had a falling out over discounts I believe. Also Manker had their designs copied, so who knows. These flimsy designed optics drives me nuts, but only an issue for modding I guess.

I meant round 2 of the Blue springs. :wink:

BTW, the Blue springs are made stack-able too. So, you could put a small and large together and get even better output. Dale goes even further. He uses a set of small and large Blue springs and ALSO does a wire bypass! :open_mouth:

Wait a minute. Isn’t it normal for a TIR lens to reduce output 30% compared to a raw led?

Have you tried measuring a different flashlight with a standard Carclo lens with and without the bezel and TIR? What was the difference there? 20%?

I didn't remove the optics, only the bezel and lens, so the optics was in both tests. If you compare a Astrolux/Manker triple optic with a Carclo side by side, you can see these differences. The Carclo's are of course spec'd, while the Astrolux/Manker is not, as far as I know - we can only speculate unless someone actually does a good comparative test. I'm speculating by design, the Carclo is superior based on the cup size and where they end at the edge, and the plastic thickness difference - Carclo's are way thinner, about 1/2 as thick on the front plastic.

Funny the Astrolux/Manker optic has the LED's closer actually, but the optic cups are getting clipped at the edges. I would again, speculate the Astrolux/Manker ones would get more throw, but not sure how these TIR's work exactly.

Okay, so there is a glass lens on top of the TIR optic?

Removing those two boosted output 43? (same amount as reducing output 30)

So it wasn’t the inner black part of the bezel absorbing output?

More likely it’s from the bezel being over the top of the TIR edge bouncing light back into the optic?

I think I’m starting to understand what you mean.

I’ve only dealt with single tir lenses that I converted from reflector designs. I tend to lose maybe 20% of the output when I do this.

Ohhh, never heard of "Blue Springs", but I see now these are the same springs I'm talk'n bout - BlueSwordM's BeCu springs.

Ok - I used only one large, but maybe I'll add a small one inside .

Yes - an AR glass lens. No, boosted 30%, reducing less.. But I re-tested since and think it's more like 20% boost, not 30% . Getting some variations so not sure if re-assembling, etc. is causing some changes - think my measuring setup is pretty stable. Again, triple TIR tested vs. triple TIR. The difference is removing the alum bezel and lens, and I am thinking the problem is mostly the bezel because it overlays the TIR cups a little, and think I kind of proved that by seeing the 6% bump from the mods made to the bezel..

Yes Tom E, I mean the BlueSwordM group buy BeCu springs. I think it was Dale (DB Custom) who dubbed them “Blue Springs” first.

LOL

@DavidED, in his giant HMR Q8, DB Custom is actually only using dual BeCu springs! Even I was impressed since the light is pulling 21A/dual spring array! The dual spring array is extremely potent, to the point of I not even expecting it.

@Tom E, WHY and HOW did you get a boost in output going from a dual gold plated phosphor bronze spring array to a SINGLE of my nickel plated BeCu large springs?

That does not make too much sense. If you didn’t get more output, I wouldn’t have said anything, but you got more output from a single spring? I’m puzzled to say the least…

@Tom E 2, availability shouldn’t be a problem now with me this time in the picture :wink:

Wait, why do you think the stock springs are gold plated phosphor springs? I just figured they were typical gold looking covered steel. I can't find anything on springs on the BG web page, or noted here in this thread, but could be missing something.

1. Some of our members noted currents of 15A+ going through the tail spring.

Even a dual steel spring array would easily melt under that load with 4x Nichia 219Cs in parallel.

2. If I remember well, the springs do not stick to a magnet. That is the main takeaway.

In the S42 and Astrolux MF series of lights, they are using springs that are very barely magnetic, due to the small nickel percentage in the phosphor bronze.

Hhmmm, I dunno. I find it hard to believe they are using some decent springs when some of the other components are sub par, but of course it's possible. I've used the stock dbl springs on a Q8 running on one cell before, but don't think it hits 15A but should have been over 10A, and the Q8 uses cheaper springs, I believe.

I do really like the switch of the S43S - nice sound, good feel, but I prefer the softer switches, specially with press&hold ops like ramping. I know TA worked on the driver, just not sure if it was he who designed the complete driver w/USB charging. I gott break it all down and check it out. It appears to be 2 boards stacked, one probably vertical with the USB connector mounting as it is. It's probably glued in there, so would have to poke it out from the top, maybe with some risk.

Tom, here are 2 threads where TA has talked about the light in more detail. Driver pics as well.

I believe the charging circuit is the same board used in the earlier S41 and S42 models. The charge rate us 0.5A, but can be increased with a resistor swap.