Thanks for the info. Do you know if the driver can be purchased separately? If so, would you happen to have a link?
No, not sold separate anywhere I have seen, I'm pretty sure it's a one-off made specifically for that one light. I suppose you could try to contact Ric, though it's not likely he'll want to sell the key component of his own creation by itself. The DQG lights are not rebranded OEM/generic designs.
I was comparing the MT-G2 to the original NW emitters. I should have mentioned that. The higher perceived brightness might be a result of less beam intensity, where the XP-G2’s were able to throw better but the MT-G2 evenly floods everything around.
I would much rather have 1.5A @ 6.1v, longer battery life and flatter output.
I didn’t have time to post more pics last night, but I did managed to get LED currents on Medium (100mA) and on High (430mA) with the protected KG @ 4.11v before I shorted the LED + to ground and fried the driver. :_(
Not a happy camper.
I use the negative lead to take emitter amp readings for that very reason. (Well, that and I want to know what’s going Through it, not To it)
Man, that sucks!
Edit: Did I read somewhere that DC current travels from Neg to Pos? Confused now….nothing out of the ordinary in that statement.
That really sucks. Maybe reparable if you tell us what burned? zeremefico was able to fix his by replacing a MOSFET in posts 51-61 of this thread. From where I’m standing it’s a fair guess that you burned the same one (shorted output and shorted sense resistors are pretty similar in this case).
I can never keep it straight, so I just act like it doesn’t matter. Hasn’t killed met yet.
Wight, I just double checked and it’s negative to positive in flow…but as either side of the emitter is going to show the current flow rate so it shouldn’t matter.
When I said that at first I realized that if you short the negative side the emitter will go direct drive, bypassing the driver controls. Which made me realize the current is actually coming up from that negative lead and flowing through the emitter towards the cell. (Even though the diode flow is pointing from pos to neg, which of course just makes it all confusing.)
Thanks wight, I will take a closer look at it and see if it can be fixed. Live and learn!
In my depression, I am buying the new DQG mini and a JAX Z1 to play with. :bigsmile: Maybe that will make up for it.
Next time, I will measure on the negative side! Thanks Dale.
I am waiting on a new driver, since I couldnt fix the original one. I will post the dimensions as promised soon.
Btw, Ric has them available here: DQG 26650 Driver
That is a desirable driver! So what other host takes a 28mm driver?
I purchased a defective one of these from Mountain. It only runs on the low and med modes. I’m not a modder is an understatement! I took took the brass ring off holding the driver in and thought I had conquered Everest! Had to ask someone in the know what to do next. He said pull the driver out! Huh? How? Which direction? He said pull it down by the spring. It worked, but those wires to the LED board are so short! Stupid. And that tiny little switch? Have to transfer that over somehow to a new driver. Forget it! Now I had to somehow figure out how to put this driver back in? That switch has to line up with that little hole that goes to the outside switch. After many, many, efforts I got it to line up! Screwed the ring back in. Enough! I’ll just use it on the 2 modes until the driver conks out. Leave this modding to the PROS. Beautiful light by the way! Mine is the first version, black. Can’t pay someone to do it for me as it would cost more than a new one ($39). Stuck.
I would think most 26650 lights will be good candidates!
I wonder if this driver can take 2S??
Send the replacement driver/light my way and I will fix it for ya! 
I would contact Richard first though. Great guy!!!
Nice mod. Want. :heart_eyes:
Yea, spoke with Richard a lot about it. He says they require much work to mod. Your offer is most kind rjorge, really. I paid $14 for the defective light. Driver would be another $12, shipping back and forth … cheaper to buy new. If u were my neighbor you would ALREADY have the light! Thanks again for your generous offer.
patrick
So I was able to fix my old driver and while I was at it, I decided to lower the Turbo sense resistance. :bigsmile:
The logic behind me wanting to do this to a boost driver simply is because there is more room for improvement given the vf of 3 XP-G2 in series vs. the vf of 1 MT-G2. Again, stock the driver can pull around 6.5A (Battery current) vs. the 3A to a MT-G2, which equals to 1.5 - 1.6A at the emitter.
I have added a 1206 R100 resistor beside the stock R120, close enough to half the stock resistance. I did try lower resistances, which did output 4.5A + (retaining all modes), but I chose a more conservative 2.6A. The other modes are exactly the same. I may increase it to around 3A, since heat doesn’t seem to be an issue at the end of the 30s turbo timer. The only thing I do not like is the narrow, clear TIR. The beam looks more like a star. Almost like a large projection of the die, but uglier.
So, adding 1 R100 will result in 2.6A to a MT-G2 vs. stock @ 1.5A. Any guesses as to lumen output?
Added pictures of the ring that holds the TIR and a beam shot of Turbo to the first post.
I would be very interested in beam shot comparisons with this if you do get the DQG mini mk11.
Also just googled your lathe, did not realise you could get them that size might have to look into getting one. Are they capable of cutting threads?
I can do that. I have one in CW.
They can, but it is a manual process. Link.
It works better than it sounds though. Metal gears as well, which is a huge plus on a mini lathe.