I wish I had more time on the lathe!! Have to keep the family happy too. 
I have a few pictures from the process and I will get them up when I get a chance.
As far as the TIR, I have the Carclo 10755 and 10756. Both are very floody. The pictures are with the 10755. I will polish up the 10756 and see if I can make it throw just a tad more.
Just hold (like the Olight S10)!
I found them in Australia for about $25 with shipping! Ridiculous!
Thanks for the build youâve motivated me to get off my ass and find someone with a lathe.
which parts did you (or would we have to) buy additional to the Light?
28 gauge silicon wire for relocating the switch.
22 gauge teflon wire for the LED.
20 gauge silicon wire for the spring mods.
The rest is custom made from 6061 T6 Aluminum stock.
awesome mod! I really want to make a mod with an MT-G2 and this body is ideal, the hardest part is aluminum machining ⌠Ric, do a version with MT-G2 :bigsmile:
Hi,
Since the Carclo is smaller diameter than then original stock, did you have to do something to compensate for the 5mm diameter difference, and if so, what?
Thanks,
Jim
Looks like he made a retaining ring in the first picture.
I made a retaining ring as aoeu mentioned. I opted to place the TIR as far as I could in order to increase the pill thickness. I have the dimensions if you would like, just shot me a PM.
You should probably post them up publicly because everyone will want to know!
I was thinking he needs to show the pill and adapter ring, offer the necessary parts for sale! 
I already PMâed rjorge, asking for details, too :)!!
Pressureâs on, rjorge!
JUST KIDDING :)!!
Have to get myself a BLOODY lathe. Oh and learn how to use it too.
Anyone know what the high and turbo lumens are likely to be given the tailcap readings provided above?
Very stable output , looking nice.
Matchâs Mini-Mag was also pretty small, but Iâd much rather have rjorgeâs Mini DQG.
500 Lumens and 1850 Lumens respectively based on djozzâs work. IIRC those are not OTF lumens though, I figure absolutely no better than 90% efficiency in the TIR. Oops. No. Iâll post the right numbers, but these were not the correct numbers.
Are those numbers correct? Isn't this a boost driver, so emitter current will be less than tailcap?
-Garry
Yeah crap, hold on. Wasnât paying good attention - thanks.
OK, letâs do Turbo first: 3A input with a fresh KK battery would be 12W input. I figure we get 80% efficiency, I donât remember if weâve actually got efficiency figures for this driver. So 9.6W output based on 80. So thatâs about 1.6A at 6v, or 1000 Lumens at the LED. OTF would be <900 assuming that the TIR is <90 efficient.
Next High: 700mAh input on a fresh KK should be around 2.8W. Based on the same assumptions this gives us 500mA at 5.4v, or around 350 Lumens. After getting through our assumed 90% TIR we have ~315 Lumens.
Iâm using a lot of assumptions and guesswork there of course. When I say âfresh KK batteryâ Iâm assuming 4v. And Iâm making a big assumption at 80% efficiency for the driver - I suppose that it could really be anywhere from 70-90% efficient. It canât be too terrible because people would complain about the heat if it was.
EDIT: To make one of my assumptions more clear: With a boost driver the tailcap current will vary a LOT based on the batteryâs state of charge / voltage. Over the course of the discharge the tailcap readings could vary by up to 20-25% (they get higher as the battery becomes more depleted). So itâs important to know what the batteryâs state of charge was when the tailcap readings were taken.
Optic is at 88% efficiency with an MT-G emitter, no claimed efficiency with the MT-G2. Other emitters are actually even lower, down to 83% or so.
....and my MT-G2 test was not a bare emitter test (had not build my integrating sphere yet at the time) but an out-of-the-reflector-without glass-lens test so the question here is what is the light loss of an open reflector compared to a TIR? 
Ah, I couldnât remember for sure and was too lazy to read, sorry! Instead I erred on the side of stacking losses on top of losses ;-).
I think itâs safe to say that the TIR should be more efficient than the reflector by a fair amount. At least 5%, maybe a lot more depending on the reflector. In that case we can adjust my figures upwards to something more like >1050 Lumens and >365 Lumens.