Mini DQG 26650 MT-G2

[rjorge]

I will post more pictures and dimensions when I get home from work! I will get LED currents too, both with the KK 26650 and a VTC5 18650.

[aoeu]

@wight

@djozz

....and my MT-G2 test was not a bare emitter test (had not build my integrating sphere yet at the time) but an out-of-the-reflector-without glass-lens test so the question here is what is the light loss of an open reflector compared to a TIR?

Ah, I couldn’t remember for sure and was too lazy to read, sorry! Instead I erred on the side of stacking losses on top of losses ;-). I think it’s safe to say that the TIR should be more efficient than the reflector by a fair amount. At least 5%, maybe a lot more depending on the reflector. In that case we can adjust my figures upwards to something more like >1050 Lumens and >365 Lumens.

Oh that’s a shame! It’s no better than factory measured by Upz. Image courtesy of Upz

I was hoping it would be better. Aside from the better tint there's no real point for me to do this then.

[wight]

@aoeu

@wight

@djozz

….and my MT-G2 test was not a bare emitter test (had not build my integrating sphere yet at the time) but an out-of-the-reflector-without glass-lens test so the question here is what is the light loss of an open reflector compared to a TIR?

Ah, I couldn’t remember for sure and was too lazy to read, sorry! Instead I erred on the side of stacking losses on top of losses ;-). I think it’s safe to say that the TIR should be more efficient than the reflector by a fair amount. At least 5%, maybe a lot more depending on the reflector. In that case we can adjust my figures upwards to something more like >1050 Lumens and >365 Lumens.

Oh that’s a shame! It’s no better than factory measured by Upz. Image courtesy of Upz

http://3.bp.blogspot.com……

I was hoping it would be better. Aside from the better tint there’s no real point for me to do this then.

Somehow I missed all the Vf numbers posted in post #3 of this thread. Again, based on djozz’s previous results those Vf numbers indicate <1100 lumens based on a <6v Vf. Note that rjorge commented in the same post that Turbo seemed brighter than with the 3*XP-G2. I’m not really sure what to make of that based on the numbers you posted in that graph aoeu.

[ohaya]

@wight

@aoeu

@wight

@djozz

….and my MT-G2 test was not a bare emitter test (had not build my integrating sphere yet at the time) but an out-of-the-reflector-without glass-lens test so the question here is what is the light loss of an open reflector compared to a TIR?

Ah, I couldn’t remember for sure and was too lazy to read, sorry! Instead I erred on the side of stacking losses on top of losses ;-). I think it’s safe to say that the TIR should be more efficient than the reflector by a fair amount. At least 5%, maybe a lot more depending on the reflector. In that case we can adjust my figures upwards to something more like >1050 Lumens and >365 Lumens.

Oh that’s a shame! It’s no better than factory measured by Upz. Image courtesy of Upz

http://3.bp.blogspot.com……

I was hoping it would be better. Aside from the better tint there’s no real point for me to do this then.

Somehow I missed all the Vf numbers posted in post #3 of this thread. Again, based on djozz’s previous results those Vf numbers indicate <1100 lumens based on a <6v Vf. Note that rjorge commented in the same post that Turbo seemed brighter than with the 3*XP-G2. I’m not really sure what to make of that based on the numbers you posted in that graph aoeu.

It (“seemed brighter”) may be because the MT-G2 would have more spill than the 3 x XP-G2, causing higher “apparent brightness”)?

[Mike_C]

I’m interested in the driver. What size is it?

[aoeu]

It’s inherently difficult to compare brightness from memory. Especially after the light has been off for a few days for the build.

It’s still a great build but I wouldn’t want to go backwards in brightness especially when stepping up to an MTG2

[djozz]

@wight

@djozz

....and my MT-G2 test was not a bare emitter test (had not build my integrating sphere yet at the time) but an out-of-the-reflector-without glass-lens test so the question here is what is the light loss of an open reflector compared to a TIR?

Ah, I couldn’t remember for sure and was too lazy to read, sorry! Instead I erred on the side of stacking losses on top of losses ;-). I think it’s safe to say that the TIR should be more efficient than the reflector by a fair amount. At least 5%, maybe a lot more depending on the reflector. In that case we can adjust my figures upwards to something more like >1050 Lumens and >365 Lumens.

correction: just reread the post: the MT-G2 test was done with reflector+non-ARcoated lens.

[comfychair]

The boost driver puts out a fixed current, at whatever voltage is required to get that current. So the MTG2 with 1.5A @ ~6.1v will be much less power than the original XPG2's 1.5A @ 9.6v. Input power should also fall by around 1/3. But if the total light output only drops by 1/4 or 1/5 that could be an acceptable trade-off.

1st-gen driver is 28.6mm dia, unknown if the gen2 driver is different.

[Mike_C]

@comfychair

The boost driver puts out a fixed current, at whatever voltage is required to get that current. So the MTG2 with 1.5A @ ~6.1v will be much less power than the original XPG2’s 1.5A @ 9.6v. Input power should also fall by around 1/3. But if the total light output only drops by 1/4 or 1/5 that could be an acceptable trade-off.

1st-gen driver is 28.6mm dia, unknown if the gen2 driver is different.

Thanks for the info. Do you know if the driver can be purchased separately? If so, would you happen to have a link?

[comfychair]

No, not sold separate anywhere I have seen, I'm pretty sure it's a one-off made specifically for that one light. I suppose you could try to contact Ric, though it's not likely he'll want to sell the key component of his own creation by itself. The DQG lights are not rebranded OEM/generic designs.

[rjorge]

I was comparing the MT-G2 to the original NW emitters. I should have mentioned that. The higher perceived brightness might be a result of less beam intensity, where the XP-G2’s were able to throw better but the MT-G2 evenly floods everything around.

I would much rather have 1.5A @ 6.1v, longer battery life and flatter output.

I didn’t have time to post more pics last night, but I did managed to get LED currents on Medium (100mA) and on High (430mA) with the protected KG @ 4.11v before I shorted the LED + to ground and fried the driver. :_(
Not a happy camper.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I guess y’all know that Richard has some in stock now… Version 2

DQG Tiny Triple XP-G2 V2

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I use the negative lead to take emitter amp readings for that very reason. (Well, that and I want to know what’s going Through it, not To it)

Man, that sucks!

Edit: Did I read somewhere that DC current travels from Neg to Pos? Confused now….nothing out of the ordinary in that statement.

[wight]

@rjorge

I was comparing the MT-G2 to the original NW emitters. I should have mentioned that. The higher perceived brightness might be a result of less beam intensity, where the XP-G2’s were able to throw better but the MT-G2 evenly floods everything around.

I would much rather have 1.5A @ 6.1v, longer battery life and flatter output.

I didn’t have time to post more pics last night, but I did managed to get LED currents on Medium (100mA) and on High (430mA) with the protected KG @ 4.11v before I shorted the LED + to ground and fried the driver. :_(
Not a happy camper.

That really sucks. Maybe reparable if you tell us what burned? zeremefico was able to fix his by replacing a MOSFET in posts 51-61 of this thread. From where I’m standing it’s a fair guess that you burned the same one (shorted output and shorted sense resistors are pretty similar in this case).

[wight]

@DBCstm

I use the negative lead to take emitter amp readings for that very reason. (Well, that and I want to know what’s going Through it, not To it)

Man, that sucks!

Edit: Did I read somewhere that DC current travels from Neg to Pos? Confused now….nothing out of the ordinary in that statement.

I can never keep it straight, so I just act like it doesn’t matter. Hasn’t killed met yet.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Wight, I just double checked and it’s negative to positive in flow…but as either side of the emitter is going to show the current flow rate so it shouldn’t matter.

When I said that at first I realized that if you short the negative side the emitter will go direct drive, bypassing the driver controls. Which made me realize the current is actually coming up from that negative lead and flowing through the emitter towards the cell. (Even though the diode flow is pointing from pos to neg, which of course just makes it all confusing.)

[rjorge]

Thanks wight, I will take a closer look at it and see if it can be fixed. Live and learn!

In my depression, I am buying the new DQG mini and a JAX Z1 to play with. :bigsmile: Maybe that will make up for it.

Next time, I will measure on the negative side! Thanks Dale.

[rjorge]

I am waiting on a new driver, since I couldnt fix the original one. I will post the dimensions as promised soon.

Btw, Ric has them available here: DQG 26650 Driver

[djozz]

That is a desirable driver! So what other host takes a 28mm driver?

[saypat]

I purchased a defective one of these from Mountain. It only runs on the low and med modes. I’m not a modder is an understatement! I took took the brass ring off holding the driver in and thought I had conquered Everest! Had to ask someone in the know what to do next. He said pull the driver out! Huh? How? Which direction? He said pull it down by the spring. It worked, but those wires to the LED board are so short! Stupid. And that tiny little switch? Have to transfer that over somehow to a new driver. Forget it! Now I had to somehow figure out how to put this driver back in? That switch has to line up with that little hole that goes to the outside switch. After many, many, efforts I got it to line up! Screwed the ring back in. Enough! I’ll just use it on the 2 modes until the driver conks out. Leave this modding to the PROS. Beautiful light by the way! Mine is the first version, black. Can’t pay someone to do it for me as it would cost more than a new one ($39). Stuck.