Sweet!
Please post a link to it when you are happy with it... Feel free to take your time...
When I get my next convoy L4 I will play around with the stock driver a bit first.. Then I might upgrade. Lots of interesting lights that could benefit from a UI that takes advantage of both switches. :)
Banggood’s 15% code “bgl4gb” is still on. I’m still thinking whether to get this or the new XinTD.
The LD34 driver can be purchased directly from Simon Mao’s Aliexpress store.
It is rated for use with one cell, or two. I tested my L4 with a pair of IMR 16340 cells and it works fine. I get the exact same Lux readings with two 16340 cells as with one 18650 cell.
People talked about how waterproof the button is.
I threw my brand new L4 in a bucket for some hours.. Showered before and after..
Luckily not a sign of water inside or water going through the side switch.
It was not due to luck though. New and improved side switch it seems. (I did not know this when throwing it in the bucket)
Bravo Convoy! This is the best sealed side switch I have seen.
(this light came from WB)
Bravo indeed for that improvement. I really hope my L4 from Banggood will have the same side switch.
Looks like the same switch I showed in this thread.
Unless the light body has been changed to include a shelf or flat ledge for that seal to compress against, it’s not waterproof.
Its obviously not a dive light.
It can be showered, thrown in a bucket. Filled with water. Shaken around in the bucket. Stay there for several hours. Then showered again. Dried out quickly and then inspected without any signs of water inside. That may not be a good enough test for some. But in my book, its waterproof, at least for my type of use.
Give us everything we want for a buck ninety-eight or else! 
Nice test!! Braver than I... Just got a 2nd L4 from BG today -- looks real good, as good as the first. Didn't check the switch in detail though, but body seems perfect, beam is pretty well focused, etc..
I usually chicken out with doing underwater tests without battery inside. 0:)
Some time back I played around a bit with the driver in the L4. Tried to push the resistor mod further, but it did not work. Not with the equivalent of 2 cells either (I played around with a power supply)
I think the conclusion was that there is no point in adding more than one R120, it would not go past 3,7A if lower values were used.
Has anyone tried to put a XP-G2 in this light?
Many people have put XP-G2 emitters in C8 reflectors. Me included. Domed and de-domed. I have not specifically used the reflector in the L4, but I don't see why it should not work well as long as you get it nicely centered and focused.
Some time back DBCstm made a thread documenting and comparing various emitters in a Convoy C8. That light had an orange peel reflector, but the thread should still be relevant for you if you don't know exactly what to expect from the L4 with and XP-G2 in comparison to an XM-L2.
In short, if you want more range and can compromise on lumen then go for it..
And if you depress the button a bunch of times while underwater?
Thank you for the link. That is a very nice comparison DBCstm did. I’m quite interested in the L4. A friend of mine has one and I like the build quality and interface with side switch.
I have a couple of lights and wouldn’t need another one (I think y’all know what I’m talking about), but what I don’t have is a light that really throws. I think my best throwing light does around 30-35klux@1m. So now I want a light that’s relatively small (definitely one cell only) and clearly outthrows my other lights. 100klux would be really nice.
Never modded a light before, but would want to get into it… For beginning I guess it would be much easier to just mod a cheap C8, but to me the L4 is so much nicer. My plan was to just swap the emitter board to a XP-G2 on Noctigon but I guess that brings me nowhere near 100klux. I’d like to avoid dedoming because I prefer cool white blueish tints for a thrower and I live in fear of greenish tints. Another option I thought of was to buy a Yezl Y3 instead and install XP-G2 on Noctigon. Do you think that would do it to reach towards 100klux? Also do you think I would be better of with a C8 as my first mod for learning purposes?
I have not tested, and even if I did test and there were no signs of water inside the light, I would not dare to guarantee it.. If you plan on having the light under water while doing mode changes then I would recommend a dive light just to be on the safe side.
Y3 with XM-L2 and direct drive driver could break 100kcd with an XM-L2.. Check out the Y3 thread.
Y3 and L4 both requires some extra work to get the full potential out of. Its not just a direct driver swap, you have to use the existing driver as a contact plate/switch holder. Its more involving compared to just a basic driver and emitter swap in a C8 light. On the Y3 also comes extra work with raising the emitter.. Again, check that thread for more mod info on it.
In general, if you are new to modding, its easier to start with the more basic stuff, but that is up to you and your skills.
Naw, just occasionally I’m out in a storm where it almost feels like I’m underwater 
You could pot the driver just to make it more moist/water proof. Stay away from the switch though, just make sure it can be replaced in case of shit. Most likely it will handle it, but its better to prepare for the worst..
So I modded this light in order to improve it’s throw as a rifle mounted light. I replaced the emitter star with a gasoline dedomed XM-L2 U3 1A on a 16mm noctigon. I didn’t have any 20mm ones but the 16mm worked ok. I sanded down the led centering ring to reduce its height, and I resistance modded the springs. Some things to note: the screws for the stock led star are screwed into untapped holes. The holes are about .087” which is just right for a 4-40 cut tap. I used 4-40 x 5/16 bhcs to replace the stock ones after tapping the holes but shorter 4-40x3/16” screws would be better. The led shelf is recessed almost more than the height of the noctigon, but it did work without having to use a shim under the screws. I’d skip the resistance mod on the springs if I were to do it over again.
The stock driver was misbehaving for me after the mod so I ended up replacing it with a Qlite flashed with STAR dual switch firmware. I quite like it.
Woot!! II made my very first MOD of my life today! Swapped the stock XM-L2 T6 4C with an XP-L HI V2 3C to improve throw and… It works!
I had to put a piece of duct tape over contact because reflector shorted (the centering ring is for XM”L package and was loose with the XP-L) but yeah it did NOT explode/melt/fail/insult on me!
I’m happy
Just wanted to share my enthusiasm. BLF brought me here.
Nice effort chenko. Its all downhi, woops I mean uphill from here on in. 