You bastard! 
I shoulda seen that coming!
:D :bigsmile: :D
:beer:
So much stuff going on in this thread.. Might as well trow an April fools joke in here too.. Related to the L4 ofcourse..
The 10% code is real though (At least it works on the L4, not sure if it works on other stuff). But we are kinda used to those.. I did order myself an L4. I have been without one for too long..
Thanks… the coupon work for me, just have to buy another one
Tears in my eyes and trying to keep from spilling coffee in my computer.
Good one RaceR86!
Decided this afternoon that my L4 needed some attention. I pulled the driver out and couldn’t figure out how to bump it, so I stripped it, built a BLF 17mm DD FET driver and piggybacked it onto the larger board for a contact board. The side switch doesn’t work anymore, but I have 5 modes putting out .20, 19, 141, 667, and 1642 lumens. This on a Sony C5.
I intentially wrote the levels for mainly decent lower modes, for runtime and sheer usability. The Turbo is a BAM! mode, more for fun than using. Who knows? Maybe that solid build will handle amps in the high 5’s….
Edit: part of that isn’t exactly true…I’d already stacked a resistor and bumped output when I got it. I removed those resistors and soldered a bridge in…somehow this cost me the side switch and modes…it was bright but only one mode. So I did the above.
Was this the resistor you bypassed?
For anyone interested- the stock driver is available to purchase here.
I got a couple because I like that it works with one or two cells.
Keep in mind that this driver requires a tail switch- it has no off mode, just low, medium, and high.
TexasToasted, yes, that is the resistor I placed another resistor on top off.
Glad you got a laugh Dale on that 1st of april fool. BLFers are easy prey when it comes to discounts.. :D
Sounds like you have made yourself a nice and bright L4. :)
Im still looking for someone that can make a great UI that combines both the sideswitch and clicky on the tail...
After using the latest DrJones stuff, and tweaked versions of his driver (that he programmed for me), the "older" lumodrv 35, seems a bit dated, and I haven't seen anyone being able to program as nice stuff as he does.
Some requirements: (I might tweak the list, just wrote it down quickly based on features Im used to having on lights with just electronic switch.)
-UI that utilizes rear clicky for momentary signaling and off (if not something else smart)
-A few well spaced modes that can be changed on the electronic switch (or ramping)
-From being switched off, the ability to start the light in both lowest and highest mode. At least in lowest mode.. (Maybe hold sideswitch when turning on in order to start in low mode, otherwise, last used mode)
-Not audible and visible PWM. Around 18kHz usually does the trick.
-Low voltage cut off
Bonuses:
-User programmable modes
-Battery monitor/voltage
-Hidden blinky stuff (beacon and SOS)
-Shortcuts (user programmable)
-Battery saving feature below 3v
Completing a program to utilize the side switch is definitely on my list. It would basically be like STAR, but only the side switch changes modes and will allow for ramping. So many ways to implement on-the-fly programming of modes, but I honestly can't write code as compact as DrJones. And since you can compile the light with whatever modes you want, it's not something that I need.
I'll try to get a basic program up on my site tomorrow, sans ramping, as that will take me longer to fit in there. So basically the momentary program but with memory.
Sweet!
Please post a link to it when you are happy with it... Feel free to take your time...
When I get my next convoy L4 I will play around with the stock driver a bit first.. Then I might upgrade. Lots of interesting lights that could benefit from a UI that takes advantage of both switches. :)
Banggood’s 15% code “bgl4gb” is still on. I’m still thinking whether to get this or the new XinTD.
The LD34 driver can be purchased directly from Simon Mao’s Aliexpress store.
It is rated for use with one cell, or two. I tested my L4 with a pair of IMR 16340 cells and it works fine. I get the exact same Lux readings with two 16340 cells as with one 18650 cell.
People talked about how waterproof the button is.
I threw my brand new L4 in a bucket for some hours.. Showered before and after..
Luckily not a sign of water inside or water going through the side switch.
It was not due to luck though. New and improved side switch it seems. (I did not know this when throwing it in the bucket)
Bravo Convoy! This is the best sealed side switch I have seen.
(this light came from WB)
Bravo indeed for that improvement. I really hope my L4 from Banggood will have the same side switch.
Looks like the same switch I showed in this thread.
Unless the light body has been changed to include a shelf or flat ledge for that seal to compress against, it’s not waterproof.
Its obviously not a dive light.
It can be showered, thrown in a bucket. Filled with water. Shaken around in the bucket. Stay there for several hours. Then showered again. Dried out quickly and then inspected without any signs of water inside. That may not be a good enough test for some. But in my book, its waterproof, at least for my type of use.
Give us everything we want for a buck ninety-eight or else! 
Nice test!! Braver than I... Just got a 2nd L4 from BG today -- looks real good, as good as the first. Didn't check the switch in detail though, but body seems perfect, beam is pretty well focused, etc..
I usually chicken out with doing underwater tests without battery inside. 0:)
Some time back I played around a bit with the driver in the L4. Tried to push the resistor mod further, but it did not work. Not with the equivalent of 2 cells either (I played around with a power supply)
I think the conclusion was that there is no point in adding more than one R120, it would not go past 3,7A if lower values were used.
Has anyone tried to put a XP-G2 in this light?
Many people have put XP-G2 emitters in C8 reflectors. Me included. Domed and de-domed. I have not specifically used the reflector in the L4, but I don't see why it should not work well as long as you get it nicely centered and focused.
Some time back DBCstm made a thread documenting and comparing various emitters in a Convoy C8. That light had an orange peel reflector, but the thread should still be relevant for you if you don't know exactly what to expect from the L4 with and XP-G2 in comparison to an XM-L2.
In short, if you want more range and can compromise on lumen then go for it..