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Olight H2R is a very practical high brightness headlight
Using optical lens
Use a small electric drill to carefully drill 2 holes, and do not hurt the lines inside
Then use a knife to clear out the space under the pressure ring
Use the lever principle to open the pressure ring
Remove the pressure ring
Remove the lens
CREE XHP50 1 generation
Removed lens and pressure ring
Remove the MCPCB (LED)
LED wiring, switch wiring, and a housing ground wire
Ready to install Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 LED
Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 LED CRI Test Results (Reposted)
LED 6V power connection diagram
Reflow LED
Use IPA to clean, will not hurt the LED surface
Start the wiring, the MCPCB is not easy to solder beautiful
Finished wiring welding
Test I
Test II
bead lens
Selected three 20mm to test
If you do not like the direct charging function, you can paste the negative electrode with a special sticker.
Completed
After to 2 weeks……….continue…
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This is another H2R that has been completely destroyed
Get a original lens and pressure ring
Remove the re-installation lens, by the way using thermal glue to fixed and heat dissipation
No spacers are used
Reinstall complete, perfect
The right side is the ArmyTek wizard pro Nichia E21A 5000K+6500K mixing version
Please refer to the following link:(Chinese)
http://news.wii.tw/viewthread.php?tid=59920&highlight=
You light up my life
Repost: nichia E21A tone test picture
practical testing:
Left: ArmyTek wizard pro (5000K+6500K) Right: Olight H2R (6500K)
ArmyTek’s honeycomb lens is really good and its floodlight spot is very beautiful
The H2R’s original lens will see a light block
Cool white high CRI R9080+, the actual visual inspection is a whole white
H2R lens not installed
H2R After installing the original lens
The new toy received today, the light meter
LuminTop ODF30 turbo mode 498800 lux
Please refer to:
H2R extremely bright 142500 lux
ArmyTek wizard pro extremely bright 100900 lux
The above is for reference only: there are differences in data due to distance and on-site lighting
thanks for watching