I builded today yet another C8 for a fella hunter today and decided to compare it with an Olight M2X Javelot ( the newest XPL HI revision)
The C8- Used emitter is Fasttech one XPG2 S2 2B( hot dedomed ofc) on Noctigon, the driver is DD FET +1 x 7138 - i used IOS 18 AWG wires, the spring is the default one that came with the host bridged with a 22awg wire, same as the tail spring.
The glass was swapped with the Fasttech AR 41.5mm one
The gasket used is the one that came with the host- i sanded it like 0.5mm and perfectly centered it( the hardest part of all the work)- the gasket is fixed on the PCB with a glue , i used some sillicone grease on its top to prevent the reflector to twist/disorient it
Its the new COnvoy C8 btw, not the old pill one
Olight M2x Javelot
Lux/candelas measured at 3.35 meters( thats the max i can affort in my home), max current and the hotspot plus the emitter tint:
Convoy results : lux, max amp, hotspot and the tint:
Olight results: lux, hotspot and the tint:
max amps are 3.4 for the M2x, i forgot to take a pic:/
Both times a Samsung 25r battery was used
So….what do we have:
15770 lux/176978 cds for the Convoy C8 vs 15500lux/173948 for the M2X
That particulat C8 came out with a perfect hotspot too- better that the M2x one
The S2 2B tint is also better, most ppl here will like it, and the max amps i wont comment, its the best XPG2 at this moment on the market
This is yet another proof how good Convoy C8, the BLF DD driver and that particluar emitters are: for 1/3( 1/6) of the M2x price( after its HUGE discount atm) you can have smaller, lighter, ways more pocketable and ofc ways ways more BLF style thrower/hunting flashlight and thas a better tintand a better hotspot( if you are patient ofc )
I was thinking silicone sealer or two part epoxy, something that can both take heat and stick reliably to the gasket.
But in the end I managed without glue and by screwing the bezel down carefully.
Would be nice to find proper gaskets for the SMO reflectors.
Well its a friend, we do hunt together, plus he is making bullets for me…free ofc, its a shame to ask a friend for 23$
A french brand called Bison, its flexible and one of the most reliable over here, and it aint an isntant one, thus you can fine tune the gasket
About the gasket issue….well, the default COnvoy C8 ones are nearly perfect when managed properly, i dont find any reason to buy aditional ones - look at the hotspot, it speaks for itself, when you are carefull and patient it take slike 5 mins to fix it like it should be fixed
Just put one of these in my 818, the tint is great! Much better than the S42B and S2OD!!! Or any other XP-G2 I have tried so far! Now it’s time to tune it in, will start with the reflector on the board and work my way up!
Amaz'n, truly amaz'n! Wish I could dupe the results. I rarely use 18 AWG wires - might have to give it a go, but I'm sure the wires aren't the only reason. I've tried hot de-domes but with not so good results. Maybe have to re-visit this, but been too bizy on firmware as of late.
I dedome hot, right after reflowing the emitter to the MCPCB and rarely screw up an XML2. But I wind up ruining about 1/3rd of the XPG2 when I dedome hot. A corner of the phosphor sometimes lifts off with the dome, so I probably need to maintain more heat. Any tips?
Maybe you heard that for XP-E2? But XP-E2's can go up to ~2.4A anyway. XP-G2's can go much higher. djozz tested them on a bench PS - think over 6A. I can onlyget them to bout 3.5-4.5A on a cell, but apparently certain bins/batches can go higher.
Well…. i think we use quite different hot dedome methods here
By hot dedome i ment i use a hot battery-electrical dedome method- i usualy use a realatiely bad Great Empire 6800mah battery( that is actualy 900mah): this way even fully charged it gives max 2.5 amps when direct connected to the emitter….i have to make a video though….most of times the dedome is nearly perfect btw
Alright, so you use a crappy low amp cell to power the emitter while the MCPCB is hanging in free air, wait till it heats up and pluck the dome off while the emitter is still illuminated? If so, do you need welding goggles to see what you’re doing while you lift the dome?
Something like that, its only i power the emitter while its on the table, but unter its PCB i use a paper to issulate the heat , then i power the emitter in series, 4-5 seconds working, 1 second off, repeating this 4-5-6 times( i use to that like i drink water, i damaged many till i found the way to do it like i should)…meanwhile i touch gently the dome to see if its melted, after the 10th try one will know when the exact moment to dedome is, the dome becomes hot and soft: then i dedome the emitter with 2 cuts ( the dot in the upper left corner is the starting point):
1. One fast cut but only to the emitters core from the side that is pointed on the picture:
2. A final complete cut , from the site pointed on the picture:
If its done under 10 seconds usualy results are great
If the emitter is on an alu PCB it heats up 2-3 times faster, so series in that case should be 2 seconds work, 1 off
Every VERY crappy battery will do the job, there are some Ultrafire batteries that give 3-4 amps - those aint good, they heat up pretty fast, the main idea here is to maintain a current 2.5-3amps tops…it can be done with a led driver ofc
So you are slicing the dome before lifting, creating 2 cuts 90 degrees apart (and away from the bond wires to protect them). Then lifting from the corner where you cut the dome. Thanks Mitko! If this is the method, I can manage the heat pretty well just after reflow onto the DTP MCPCB.
Does hot dedome removes silicone under bond wires?
I use gasoline dedome method but I am using medical grade gasoline, much purer than car gasoline and doesnt leave any smell but it needs at least 24h of soaking. Anyway it is very very hard to remove particles of silicone dome under the bond wires…