Yes. Also, put the zener diode on top of the cap (or on the side of it) with the line facing the D1 pads (where you now have the 200 ohm resistor.)
Edit: You should see continuity there, you can even see that the trace is directly connected.
It says C1, but I know what you mean. After all my questions on Tuesday, I know where how to check things now.
Stack the Zener on the capacitor. Making sure to keep the line on the Zener towards positive.
With the line towards D1 or in other words the line on top of the Zener is closest to the 200 ohm resistor you just put on.
We’re supposed to CHECK things?
Please post a picture so lazy folks can help you.
I have a dedomed XP-E2 (on a noctigon screwed down to copper) which I run at about 2A (6*7135). I didn’t try any other drive currents. I forget if I based that on data from djozz or this data from Match.
You push the 1st til it splodes, then you know where to set the 2nd one… a wee bit shy of what did in the 1st one. 
Okay. I got continuity between the cap and 41 now. Bad eyes. Even with needle thin probes I had to poke around a bit.
I’ve got everything straight in my head now. It’s too bad I have to muck about with Richards immaculate soldering. I could have had him do the Zener mod, but I have all the components, and doing it myself is part of the learning process, and what makes this a hobby.
It’s more fun when you get it working on your own. :bigsmile:
I was thinking of about 1.9A. I don’t have a lot of experience with XP-E2 except in my Carlco triple mod.
I've done them at 2.1A and 2.45A. At 2.8A, no difference from 2.45A.
Sounds good Tom. I’ve got 2.1A NANJG I’ll use.
I’ve got this really weird C8 reflector I want to try out.
Speaking of which, Rich has some of the Oshpark boards listed with more to come. Look under components/PCB’ - Mod Kits.
Did I miss posting the 17DD-Z?
It seems like Mattaus has quite a few boards shared which have not yet made it into your Oshpark Projects thread. A couple of zener ones, a couple of revisions to fix stars, nothing major. All good to have!
I just noticed the 17DD-Z in Dales post. Had not seen them mentioned before. Thanks, I’ll get them into the thread ASAP. Should I replace the old links with new revisions or just add them? I’m inclined to replace.
I don't have enough of the Z to go around, just enough for the drivers I've sold or have up. I will be offering the PCBs in a little while. They are nice because voltage monitoring works with a few values tweaks and resistor swaps. In the newest version, even our normal SOD-123 zener diode fits on the board! Great work all around by Mattaus.
The listing is almost done for the 16340 light (these pics are of the stock LED, which I will be offering at a competitive price, but of course there will be mods!)
This light is lightweight and has an attractive semi-flat finish. Tailstands nicely.
Indeed, and I ordered one of the Oshpark SRK drivers last week, along with some other parts. I’m excited.
It even motivated me to finally build a light box so I can measure the difference my mods make. I’d like to build an integrating sphere too (and may have to, since the light box seems to max out at around 3000 lumens), but I’m not sure when I’ll have time.
What are you using for light meter? I’ve been too cheap to replace my old one so wondering how I could just use one of SLR camera meters with gray card or something.
I’m using a HS1010A lux meter. It’s cheap, but it works well enough for my purposes.
If I can find time, I’m planning to post about the build, but I’ve been busy and I still need to calibrate the thing (which will be pretty time-consuming).
Do you have any complete lights that use a single AA cell?