Originally posted in the M6 thread but no answers received!
Has any one done a lumens reading and current draws for all seven modes of a fully modified RMM M6 with cool LEDs? As I recall I saw one post listing the minimum mode as about 1/6 Lumen and max as 4500+ Lumens but I am curious about the intermediate levels.
Rich I could do that for you. The numbers are going to vary depending on cell(s) used and state of charge since there is no regulation.
When I hooked 3 XML’s to the aluminum spacer, drove with a BLF DD17 on a 25R- I melted the optics and released the ground wire from all the heat.
The spacer is down below hidden in the coppers sleeve.
Richard;
I realize that. I was thinking of output with the LG ICR 3000mAh or 3200 mAh batteries which are what I am using in mine at the moment. Originally chose those due to capacity and apparent minimal voltage droop compared to most other chemistry cells at substantial current draws per HKJ’s graphs you have posted on the 3000 mAh LG page. Brighter for longer hopefully.
Any other batteries with better overall performance in the M6 that you sell? I did PM you about the LGs prior to buying them. I also have the new Panasonic 3200 mAh 10 amp discharge protected cells and may order some of the unprotected ones too.
Be interesting too to see maximum output with several battery choices as that would give an indication of variations customers are likely to see. Just list conditions for testing of course.
I wonder if copper would really do that much better in that situation? You probably have a huge thermal hurdle to get over using the Oshpark PCB in the first place. Maybe directly soldering to copper would give you a better thermal interface, but lapping and polishing should get you really close there as well. I know that good copper is about twice as thermally conductive as aluminum, but I can't imagine the aluminum spacer itself being the major bottleneck if all other factors were equal.
I gotta agree about the FR4 PCB being the bottleneck. I don’t see how replacing the aluminum spacer with copper will fix the problem scottyhazzard described. Having tons of thermal interfaces is also a bad thing… led~~pcb>spacercopper sleeve~~>flashlight (and if it’s a normal P60 host there are probably a set of threads between where the pill sits and the outside air…). The looser any of those are, the worse it gets…
On the other hand… what exactly are you talking about lapping RMM? Lapping the Oshpark PCB against the aluminum spacer??
Maybe a drill-and-insert-wire mod would be a good step.
Looks like we need to fill these with 3M Fluorinert. The tail cap could be the expansion bladder.
Cheaper way would be to reduce current a bit?
Scott, think I’m going to use the XinTD-X3 for my MT-G2 host after I inspect it, hope not to order the welding glove option from Richard 
Hey guys, just got in a few of the XinTDs with XP-G2 S2 2B emitters. The bezel is glued in place (I'm guessing that focus was a bear!) but the beam is very well focused. I need to measure it vs. a U2 1A with the same cell at the same distance, but it sure looks like it is more intense. The reflector is different on the XP-G2.
Awesome, I’ve been wanting to know what the throw on those is like. 
I threw 3, AMC7135-350mA on driver to bump to 4k mA. I then took first look at star, uh-oh. This looks like black aluminum star, I thought I read theses were copper. Should I pull the 7135 back off or just save to upgrade? This appears to be glued on pill.
Thx
Richard;
Any further information updates on the TR-J20 and your experiments with it? Have you made a decision on whether or not to offer a modified version of it?
The V4 was the aluminum star from the factory. You can add two for a total of around 3.8A with no issues, but it will be less efficient than with the copper star. My original V4 from last August was running at 3.8A with the aluminum star with no issues.
I am going to offer one, but I'm not done with the e-switch mod yet. I was going to do it myself on my small drill press then reconsidered, so I am waiting for my friend to get back in town to help me (he has better tools.)
I have purchased the M6 mod 2 kit, but I can’t make it work. I have unsoldered the mcu and the electronic switch cables from m6 and I have attached them to the atiny board. Also, I have soldered the pwm cable from atiny to pwm spot, near mcu. Any ideas what have gone wrong here?
Glad you’re going ahead in this “Chunky Monkey” light, looking forward to buying one. Are you going to offer it in different amp levels?
Illuminaria, go with the MTG2-it’s a much easier thermal beast to tame and the XinTD is a much, much better host. You are going to love it! I love it in my little S3! Used it camping this weekend. I had it on the 4th level and heard a camper say, “That’s the $&@#’ing brightest light I’ve ever seen”! Then I put on turbo and the ensuing ooh’s and ah’s helped me to endure the searing heat a little longer. I still haven’t made it to 60 seconds. That XinTD x3 will rock with the MTG2 and take the heat a whole lot better.
OK, thanks.
I coated the reflector base threads with some of my left over AS5 from last laptop upgrade. I had hoped to spread the heat around. I think later this week I’ll try the gas mod on the dome. If that works out, good. My friend ordered the V5 from you two weeks ago so will hook up and compare V4 against V5.
Mike
Hate to tag more on this, but OMG! More Power Scotty! Super Bad combo:
XML's (lower Vf, hotter), alum OSHPark board (NG without copper thru hole mods for the LED pads), Sam 20R (lethal amps), BLF17DD (more lethal amps). I do love it though... 
I’m still eager to find out what kind of lux the XP-G2 version of the XinTD C8 gets. At a guess, maybe 60 kcd? 70 kcd? Probably at least 50 kcd, I’d expect.
It seems like one of the most exciting stock lights I’ve heard about in quite a while, given the overall quality, throw, size, and price.
I got the S3 and like the 4C tint so much I dropped the last of my 7135 dust on the driver. Yeah, if next weeks de-dome fails or caches fire then XinTD will be up. My eyes are getting bad so could use the extra light.
I’m getting our pop-up ready for a water park trip next month in Mississippi. Hope to have more than the Ray-O-Vac along for them dark trails.
Cheers, Mike