I had to laugh at this, I’ve been there myself recently.
Hot pockets are only good when they are the edible kind.
The little copper smoothie MT-G2 I built a while back did that to me once in a leg pocket (carpenters pants).
The way I was standing it wasn’t against my leg at the time.
When I moved……… well, I moved again really fast , to get the light out of my pocket and the batteries out of it.
~4A MT-G2 in a solid copper light the size of a mini mag gets a bit warm. I actually looked to see if it scorched my pants afterwards. Man was that thing HOT!!
Good thing I didn’t have a bunch of lint in that pocket.
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Waiting for your new buck driver, they sound like just what I have been looking for.
I may have a couple lights to throw them in……… after I order more hosts, and other stuff too.
Too many toys to buy…………not enough places to hide them.
NEW version of guppydrv? :heart_eyes: Hold up! Just made a big order for drivers to you, will this new version be available before you build them? I might want to change to the “New Version” ??? What changes are you planning? I really dig the guppydrv, so I’m VERY interested!!!
Why not have C1 in series with D1 the same as CZNR is? I do realize there is a diode/resistor swap… but I thought it was better to have the capacitor closer to the IC? noob question :bigsmile:
As usual, I just put two different capacitor pads on there for fun!
It won't work right with the capacitor after the protection diode. Basically what happens is that there is enough inductance switching the FET gate at high speeds with the diode blocking the reverse voltage to boost the MCU voltage over 6V, which causes it to glitch significantly. Comfychair figured this out in this thread. The zener mod won't work reliably unless the capacitor is directly in parallel with the capacitor after the limiting resistor, even if it is very close to the resistor or IC.
Not for the foreseeable future, unless someone else does another production run. I've had runs quoted and run the numbers and it just doesn't make sense to have more produced.
They're just different mode groups, so the rest of the functionality is the same. I'll keep both available. As to how the guppydrv name came about--I actually have no idea, as it's one of DrJones' creations. He uses the 'drv' designation at the end of most of his drivers, but what 'guppy' is supposed to mean, I have no idea!
What do you mean different mode groups? There is 24 mode groups in the Universal guppydrv.?? How will the other differ?? I like how it functions I’m glad that’s not changing!!
I'm very interested In the new guppydrv haha! Can't wait!
I just assembled the first of 4 mtn17dd drivers, works great! I soldered a noctigon to the pill, then soldered a dedomed xml2-u3-1a onto the noctigon, soldered 20ga leads on and soldered the driver to the pill. Instead of a spring I soldered a brass button on the +/ bottom of the driver, and I double braided the tailcap spring.
with the tailcap off, I'm getting 3.88 amps. Is there anything I can do to feed more power to the LED? With triples this same battery will do over 9A.
What battery is it? There's nothing else you can really do, but if it's a high drain cell I would be surprised to see less than 4.5A. I would suspect a damaged emitter.
I always check the forward voltage before and after dedoming. If it gets higher after dedoming then the emitter was damaged and I replace that emitter and try again.
Yea scratch that, you hit the nail on the head. About the third time I flipped the light on I switched to high mode and after about 30 seconds the light flashed then went out.
Checked voltage age at a few places, bypassed the tailcap, found out the lead wires had 4.19V but the led was dead :(
mi swapped another accidentally dedomed led in place, and it blew out on me too! Within seconds this time. They were working fine before I put them in this light, I think maybe they didn't like all the power I was putting to them. One had a white spot in the side of the yellow phospher(spelling:-/) layer.
Anyway I pulled apart a p60 drop in I bought off you awhile back, the noctigon had been soldered to the pill, and I swapped it to the new pill.... It's working again, better than ever, I just got 6.13A from the tailcap After getting it all back together. We'll see how long it lasts now lol... And I'm gonna need some more LEDs next week! Probably a couple hosts too. :) I think I like building them more than I actually like having and using them.....
my cells aren't really expensive high dollar batteries, just the sanyo ur18650fm laptop pulls that Haag was selling. I have like 300 of them and I've kept the best of the first 100 for myself. Still got a bunch to go through.
Clicky. I’m thinking about putting something together where the intended audience will want the strobe function, but in my experience hiding it with a long press saves a lot of accidents.
I can’t believe you’re still posting. I bet your wife is looking forward to loosing a lot of weight in just a few hours. I know you’ll be signing out for a few days soon, so I’m going to sneak one last order in before you shut down the site while you’re away.
By chance would it be the Q.lite driver I would want to order?
Any type. My question is what kind of action you are looking for to access it? With a clicky there is basically two options: A short reset no-memory type setup where the strobe is the last in line, so you will rarely access it accidentally, or a ToyKeeper FW setup with a "medium" press to move backwards to the hidden mode (although the timing can be a bit tricky to get a handle on).
, to get the light out of my pocket and the batteries out of it.
