Well. Still a useful low mode. Now if we can get this in an AA boost driver it would be awesome!
I do like it as is. Great stuff.
Hi Richard. Im struggling setting the turbo timer on the guppydrv firmware? I get into the programming mode after 8 taps. The light blinks. I then tap 30 times, the light thereafter goes to the max output. I let it run for around 30-60s then switch off the light. I switch the light on again after around 10s. The light then does not ramp down in any way? What am I doing wrong? Thanks a lot.
Edit: Richard, no worries, its working perfectly! The ramp down is so smooth, it kind of difficult to see the effect, which is excellent!! My light meter told the truth. I’m in love with the guppydrv firmware… 
FWIW, I had a similar request today and found that it was less trivial than expected to make STAR work with only one mode. Mostly, LVP behavior was weird due to some hardcoded assumptions. So, in case it helps anyone I made a 1-mode version of STAR:
http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/files/head:/ToyKeeper/STAR_1mode/
Yah, when I ordered an mcu from Rich for a 10180 single 350 mA 7135 Tiny 10 I had him set the modes to 80%/20% just because I wasn’t sure what lvp would do without a lower mode to step down to. Modes work great but I haven’t run the cell down to see how lvp works but it should be ok.
Thanks!
I have tested it and just tested it again to make sure and it is working. It is a gradual ramp down, so maybe you're just not seeing it happen?
Richard, no worries, its working perfectly! The ramp down is so smooth, it kind of difficult to see the effect, which is excellent!! My light meter told the truth. I’m in love with the guppydrv firmware… Smile
So, tonight we have a spaced out brain chip and an accelerated dimming feature that simulates a dying cell. Interesting.
Pass the popcorn please… 
I have installed the new 17 mm driver in a blf x6 i had trouble getting the driver to earth in the brass retaining ring. Nothing a little solder on the driver earth ring can’t help. I am really loving this filmware. I was also getting confused about the turbo timer and was waiting for a sudden drop but it is so nice and suttle that my eyes couldn’t see it. But my MM told the truth with a slow drop to half power. I need more!!! When could I expec them to be available. ?
Which firmware did you roll with Caleb-v?
Caleb, if you can drill the grip holes in the retaining ring all the way through it makes a huge difference to flip the ring over. They’ve cut a bevel on the inside that reduces contact surface area, but only a very tiny one on the top side. Flip it, and get a good solid ground.
I have flicked through most of them and title haven’t decided on any spacific mode I will see how I get on. Number 13 is interesting with the becon
Always full of good ideas dale. I will do that when I get bask home from my holiday to South Africa
do you have to redo the turbo timer each time you change mode groups, or is it set permanently after the first time you set it, until the next time you set it?
It is set independent of the mode groups.
Wha? Must be guppydrv.
Ow yes it is.
I just noticed the pill in the latest S6 hosts batch. Do they all ship like that, because yes please I like a pill with those cutouts :) Makes removal so much easier vs hoping the solder bridge from the driver to the pill won't undo itself.
brb buying one.
all of my s6 lights had cutouts so far, one of them tho the chinaman that soldered it dropped blobs of solder into the cutouts and practically filled them in... Man was that a mess to get apart!
I went back to the drawing board with a complete redesign and have two different 17mm boards now; a low-profile version for smaller pill lights like P60s and a "high profile" version for lights that have deeper pills (like the Uniquefire zoomies).
The low-profile board has been thoroughly tested at 3.5A output with 2 and 3 cells, and I think that it will do 4A with an inductor change but haven't tested that yet.
The higher-profile board has not been built or tested yet, but has been laid out and ordered. I got some more inductors and am trying to find an optimal setup. I think that a toroidal inductor is the best way to go on these, since you can get generally get lower resistance. The other option is a daughter board with a bigger SMD inductor on it, but I think that may be unnecessarily complicated compared to a toroidal inductor.
I love it when a plan comes together. 