MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

Hey richard, sorry to bother you, again! 2 quick questions...

1) I have a Zener modified 20mm FET driver with guppydrv I was going to use to power an xhp70, still will, but would it be able to run a single xpg2 with a single 18650 first? I was kind of wanting to compare the beam of an xpg in the supfire L3 with the beam from an xhp70 to see which I like best. I could always use a non Zener mod FET first if I have to but it would be easier if the Zener modded driver would work.

2) I received my package of super tiny components and mtn17dd boards today!!! Like I said I have another 20mm FET I can use as a comparison, but are there any how-to's or instructions for where and how to orient the pieces on the board? (Yes I watched wights assembly of an a17dd-s08 but yours are a little different)

Richard, when are you expecting a new shipment of 18650 3400mah protected cells?

No bother. That's what I'm here for and I try to help out where I can, when I have the time.

1. They usually work with full cells but get wonky when the cells get low. This is because of the 200 ohm resistor and not because of the zener diode, so if it doesn't work just bridge that. That said, it should work.

2. The component locations are on the PCB page, but here is a visual:

Should be in about a week. They have already been ordered.

It looks like the low-profile driver will run at 3.8A to the LED with an inductor change, but I need to test it a lot more. It puts out around 1200 OTF lumens with a cheap (unknown bin) XM-L2 in an M1. The lumens hardly drop at all over time, which is pretty cool.

I also finished up a little Thrunite TiS 10440 build with the new 12mm FET driver with the new (will be released this coming week) version of guppydrv (the original will also be available) --- it does about 600 lumens OTF on startup with an Efest 10440 and the stock XP-G2 on a 10mm Sinkpad. It quickly drops down to around 500 lumens after about 45 seconds, and after about 70 seconds it is uncomfortably hot. I've got it on a no memory group that starts in moonlight mode (no accidentally turning it on full blast in my pocket! )

I had to laugh at this, I’ve been there myself recently.

Hot pockets are only good when they are the edible kind.

The little copper smoothie MT-G2 I built a while back did that to me once in a leg pocket (carpenters pants).
The way I was standing it wasn’t against my leg at the time.

When I moved……… well, I moved again really fast :open_mouth: , to get the light out of my pocket and the batteries out of it.

~4A MT-G2 in a solid copper light the size of a mini mag gets a bit warm. I actually looked to see if it scorched my pants afterwards. Man was that thing HOT!!
Good thing I didn’t have a bunch of lint in that pocket.

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Waiting for your new buck driver, they sound like just what I have been looking for.
I may have a couple lights to throw them in……… after I order more hosts, and other stuff too.

Too many toys to buy…………not enough places to hide them.

Richard,

Any chance that you will be getting the 20mm DTP Quad xp boards again?

NEW version of guppydrv? :heart_eyes: Hold up! Just made a big order for drivers to you, will this new version be available before you build them? I might want to change to the “New Version” ??? What changes are you planning? I really dig the guppydrv, so I’m VERY interested!!! :wink:

How did the “guppydrv” name come to be, by the way???

Why not have C1 in series with D1 the same as CZNR is? I do realize there is a diode/resistor swap… but I thought it was better to have the capacitor closer to the IC? noob question :bigsmile:

As usual, I just put two different capacitor pads on there for fun!

It won't work right with the capacitor after the protection diode. Basically what happens is that there is enough inductance switching the FET gate at high speeds with the diode blocking the reverse voltage to boost the MCU voltage over 6V, which causes it to glitch significantly. Comfychair figured this out in this thread. The zener mod won't work reliably unless the capacitor is directly in parallel with the capacitor after the limiting resistor, even if it is very close to the resistor or IC.

Not for the foreseeable future, unless someone else does another production run. I've had runs quoted and run the numbers and it just doesn't make sense to have more produced.

They're just different mode groups, so the rest of the functionality is the same. I'll keep both available. As to how the guppydrv name came about--I actually have no idea, as it's one of DrJones' creations. He uses the 'drv' designation at the end of most of his drivers, but what 'guppy' is supposed to mean, I have no idea!

What do you mean different mode groups? There is 24 mode groups in the Universal guppydrv.?? How will the other differ?? I like how it functions I’m glad that’s not changing!!

He just loves those little fishies!

I'm very interested In the new guppydrv haha! Can't wait!

I just assembled the first of 4 mtn17dd drivers, works great! I soldered a noctigon to the pill, then soldered a dedomed xml2-u3-1a onto the noctigon, soldered 20ga leads on and soldered the driver to the pill. Instead of a spring I soldered a brass button on the +/ bottom of the driver, and I double braided the tailcap spring.

with the tailcap off, I'm getting 3.88 amps. Is there anything I can do to feed more power to the LED? With triples this same battery will do over 9A.

If you want higher amps & more output, i think your best bet is to use an XP-L instead.

Did you use short thick wires from the DMM?

You could also upgrade the led wires to 18awg for about ~1% boost extra amp & output.

I have read about builds where a brass button gave lower amps than a wire bypassed spring.

What battery is it? There's nothing else you can really do, but if it's a high drain cell I would be surprised to see less than 4.5A. I would suspect a damaged emitter.

I always check the forward voltage before and after dedoming. If it gets higher after dedoming then the emitter was damaged and I replace that emitter and try again.

Yea scratch that, you hit the nail on the head. About the third time I flipped the light on I switched to high mode and after about 30 seconds the light flashed then went out.

Checked voltage age at a few places, bypassed the tailcap, found out the lead wires had 4.19V but the led was dead :(

mi swapped another accidentally dedomed led in place, and it blew out on me too! Within seconds this time. They were working fine before I put them in this light, I think maybe they didn't like all the power I was putting to them. One had a white spot in the side of the yellow phospher(spelling:-/) layer.

Anyway I pulled apart a p60 drop in I bought off you awhile back, the noctigon had been soldered to the pill, and I swapped it to the new pill.... It's working again, better than ever, I just got 6.13A from the tailcap After getting it all back together. We'll see how long it lasts now lol... And I'm gonna need some more LEDs next week! Probably a couple hosts too. :) I think I like building them more than I actually like having and using them.....

my cells aren't really expensive high dollar batteries, just the sanyo ur18650fm laptop pulls that Haag was selling. I have like 300 of them and I've kept the best of the first 100 for myself. Still got a bunch to go through.

I just made my first order. Can’t wait to see how fast this will be compared to SingPost. Lol