referring back to MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source - #5340 by RMM
[09/30/2015 - 11:23 — rmm tried Sinkpad2 triple parallel boards and found the traces too weak to be reliable]
Noctigon has still not offered triple boards built with traces for parallel, right?
Noctigons are set up for parallel. You just have to bridge four little pads
Ah, thank you.
Is there a way to get a 27.5mm MTN-MAX 1A-6A Buck Driver to work with a side switch?
> Noctigons are set up for parallel. You just have to bridge four little pads
Does Noctigon make a triple board that will mount the Luxeon Rebel emitters?
(I don’t know what the ‘footprint’ is for those or if it’s comparable to other emitters)
Take a look here Ouchyfoot made a deep red Luxeon rebel triple :
Thanks, khas, I know (and admire) ouchyfoot’s work there.
The soldering and wire-cramming into that Sinkpad and extra board to make it work parallel is at the edge of what I can handle,
RMM has said the Sinkpad2 traces are much poorer than the Noctigon’s traces earlier in this thread
That’s why I asked if Noctigon makes a triple that would accept Rebel emitters (their boards are much easier to make work parallel)
I don’t know the footprint of the various emitters.
I did learn that the color XP-E2 emitters are available now and that may be the way to go.
I just haven’t found a lot of info about what Noctigon makes; do they have a home website?
Here: http://intl-outdoor.com/components-mcpcb-c-57_114.html. Hank (IOS) makes them - Noctigon is his brand.
There aren’t any noctigon boards with a Luxeon rebel footprint though, if that’s what your looking for.
That was my hope. Next option will be three different color XP-E2s. Figuring it out. Thanks
Well, if you can get enough interest up from others (or willing to buy large yourself), maybe Sundy can help you out with a custom job here.
The 20 mm noctogons are set up for either parallel or series depending on which jumpers are used
I’ve just tried asking Cutter if they can make a triple parallel rebel board, looks feasible.
Lacking an electronic switch board, what I will have to do is to denude the old board and use it as a connection board and to hold the switch, then file the driver to a snug fit and slide it into the pill with heat sink compound. I might even add some metal around the edges to increase contact area.
I also thought of filling the pill with liquid, but this is too expensive a light to experiment with.
Just add it in the notes for Richard to build for you, I have had several 4S 2.5/ 3.0 amp E-switch Mtn MAX Buck drivers built for me by Richard for my XHP35 SD75 and T90-2 builds. 
I built a MTN 17 FET+7135 with bistro yesterday.
I thought I did a pretty good job, but when I installed it, all I got was low. Not moonlight, just low. It doesn’t matter what I do, it won’t go into programming mode or anything else. I don’t know what’s wrong, or where to start trouble shooting.
Any suggestions?
I don’t think it’s a hardware issue from what i see …
I built a bunch of these with ATtiny85's, higher value voltage dividers, and the SIR800DP and not a problem with any of them. Seems like maybe the OTC?
I’m way over my head Tom. I can build them, it’s just following a blueprint, but the DNA of these things is beyond me. I might heating it up again and wiggling things around a bit, but other than that…? I have no idea what the OTC does. I could replace it, but have no idea why it wouldn’t perform correctly.
I reheated the board and shifted things a bit to make absolutely certain everything was flowed down fine and replaced the 1uF capacitor. Some thing, one low mode.
I’d sure like to figure this out, because if I’m the problem, I don’t want to build ten more boards and have the same results.