MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

I been using these from cnqualitygoods. http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=2072

They charge anywhere from 4.19 to 4.24v… Seems one side charges a little more than the other with 2 batteries in it. I just picked up a couple more for around 6.60 ea think it was. It’s not pulse charge either.

4.19V to 4.24V? That's a pretty wild range, and 4.24V is pretty high.

Yeah one side will do 4.19 usually and other side does 4.23 or 24 depending on the battery. I like it though cause think other pulse charge ruined some batteries I was using. They don’t discharge the same in my 4 cell light anymore. Been using that roche to do my batts, no heat 500ma. It uses a standard phone charger @1a

If my new batteries go bad I’ll look for something better. I’m just trying to figure out bang for the buck on everything

Charging to 4.24v will kill your cells faster than anything else you've mentioned, so it may not be such a great value after all. Pulse charging at or below the rated charge current does not hurt the battery. What makes you think that pulsing a battery at 0.75A is worse for it than running a constant 0.75A into it?

Well my pulse charger think ruined some 26650s I had bought. It used to get hot in those bays, but that could be it was a 3 bay charger. Think Trustfire TR-03 or something like that. These little chargers no heat at all and the batteries so far have been good in series. Using mnke nowdays but going to try those efest purple in a couple of other things as well when they come in.

So the charger hurt your cells, but how do you know it was the pulse charging that did it? Excess heat could of done it, sure, but it would be silly to assume that it was that charging method alone that caused the damage. Sure, that charging method if implemented incorrectly could do it, but the method itself is not flawed.

Thanks Dale! That Xtar XP4 is really close (only 0.5A with 4 cells, and would have been nice to have 2A on 2 bays for 26650's), but then again the price is really good.

Thanks for your input on your SoShine. I hadn't heard of any bad reports until yours.

-Garry

Garry, I think you're talking about the XP4c. The original XP4 does 1A on all 4 channels.

Ah, yes I was. So that's the difference between the two? And apparently the XP4 costs significantly more than the XP4c.

-Garry

I’m somewhat of a charger fanatic and I’ve purchased more than I care to admit. Anyway, I’ve charged many batteries side by side using the LUC V4 , verses the Xtar XP4, The LUC charger has consistently under charges the batteries by as much as 0.08 volts. The Xtar is always within a couple 0.01 volts of 4.2. As a result my still functioning LUC is used to bulk charge batteries, but I always put them in the Xtar to get the final charge. Its a hassle but there were no good 8 cell chargers available, hopefully until now. I’ve got one of Richards new Enova’s on it’s way!! I use a constant mix of Li-ion and NiMH cells, the versatility of the Enova is just too tempting to pass up !

Just checking to see if you’ve had a chance to test any different R values on the TP4056 chargers. I know you’re busy.

Not yet. I'm way behind...the power went out yesterday right when I was getting back to work and didn't come back on until this afternoon. Of course I had plenty of lights to keep things lit, but my soldering stations/reflow were out of commission.

Are you guys using magnet leads with these little guys?

Up til now I’ve been using my MCO charger with a magnet but for this I plan on soldering brass contacts to the board and bedding the charger and one of your small voltage displays on a fiberglass matt. Might add a momentary switch for the display.

Hey guys, it has been a drawn out process, but we are now officially moved over to the new service. Hopefully things are faster now, and as soon as I finish getting it configured, the SSL shouldn't throw certificate chain errors anymore on mobile devices.

It may take a little while for the DNS server change to propagate to everyone. If you get the "maintenance mode" message right now, then your cache is still pointing to the old site.

Thank you for all of your patience!
Richard

Anyone tried to open up their Jax Z1?

I’m having trouble getting the pill out, because the pill seems to be glued to the matte black retaining plate above it. So, they turn in unison but the threads aren’t matched and it doesn’t want to turn very far. I’ve actually bent my tools trying to twist it past the point where it stops.

Any suggestions for getting it apart?

Carborundum or diamond blade. :wink:

ToyKeeper, I've only opened up one of them, since I sold the rest, but on that one the black ring came out fairly easily. If some of the adhesive from the star/pill interface got up there, it would be very difficult to open. The star was FIRMLY held in place on the one I took apart. I had to take a torch to it to get it all off of the pill without having to sand it to death. I am not sure which type of adhesive they used, but it is very tough.

Hey my package with the U3 emitter just arrived… Seems like I ordered this yesterday :slight_smile: *Puts on squirrel cap Thanks

I've been so busy lately just trying to keep up with the SupFire orders, that I've been falling behind on a bit of R&D I wanted to do. Well, I finally submitted the drawings for a new piece I am going to have machined. It is much bigger than the triple spacers, but I'm not telling what it is until it is ready and tested (although you are certainly free to guess .) It is still going to be a budget light...but a very high output, yet fairly compact budget light. I've seen similar before, but this one will be unique, and hopefully priced much lower than anything similar out there. I still have a few bugs and testing to work out, but all of the pieces are falling into place. Wish me luck!

Copper P60 dropin?