Hi Richard, when are you going to be finished your studies and open again for sales? Could do with our of your 15mm driver boards. I can find others, but none with the custom firmware options of yours.
Can they be used at great currents with slave boards?
I was hoping for 3 amps at 100% with short timer turbo mode and low moonlight mode with no memory
Cheers
Neil
You can use any 7135 based driver with a slave board but not the DD versions unless you use Star firmware with dual pwm output…. I think…
but not many 15mm ones, and as i have no idea what I am doing . or what to choose, need someone to help me order it…which is why I’d rather get someone like Richard to tell me why i need from the specs I give.
i have about 6 drivers I bought here a while ago from Fasttech…all no good for, al unsuitable. so i’d rather be told what I need than make a ballsy up again and order a load of stuff that is no good for what I want.
I’m looking for some 15mm (and 14mm) drivers too… but the catch is that it needs to be both one-sided and flashable. So, no room for a bunch of 7135 chips. And the 14mm one needs to be no more than 3.5mm thick with components. I think I might be searching for a long time on that smaller one.
The target hosts are an EagleTac D25A (15mm) and CNQG brass 1xAA (14mm x 3.5mm).
Hi Neil, I'm back in business, so to speak. 
With the 15mm drivers, the 15mm SK68 driver will probably do what you'd like it to do. If you need approximately 3A, you can just add (3) 7135 chips to the existing 5. You can choose any mode levels you'd like, and any turbo timer you'd like. No memory isn't an issue.
Any of the 7135 based drivers can be used with a slave board, since you're basically just piggybacking off of the existing PWM signal.
What current, number of 7135s were you looking for? Clearance from the edge of the board? Need room for a soic clip?
Hey, how about a 1x 7135 driver, using the 7135s for the lower modes, with a small low resistance FET for the highest modes? That could fit 15mm single sided, and provide the "best of both worlds"?
Toykeeper, a BLFTiny10 will easily piggyback onto a 14mm contact board to run that smaller light. It’s very thin, and very tiny. With an Efest IMR10440 it’ll pull in the 3A range.
Isn’t the tiny10 a single 7135? How do you get it to pull that much?
The Tiny10DD uses a small NFET.
The new Tiny10 is a 2502 FET that takes names and kicks butt. 
3.34A in my Texas Poker for some 960 lumens out of the XP-L V6 2C emitter. The dang thing isn’t much larger than a shirt button, it’ll fit in almost anywhere! Larger cells will let it pull more, I’ve seen it go up close to 6A but I don’t think I’d try to run it like that for long.
Thanks Richard, my memory wouldn’t allow me to come up with proper terminology. 
If you put a lower resistance FET in it than the IRLML2502 then you can push 5A-6A.
Does it still have programmable modes? Ideally I would just want 1.5a high, but 3modes total. It’s for a 10440 light.
Yes PD68, still uses the ATTiny13A so it can be programmed as desired, controlled down through PWM.
Two stacked OSH Park PCBs would total 3.2mm without components, I don’t think ToyKeeper will have enough room.
Perhaps she can use the Tiny12DD and make a mounting ring from copper sheet or a washer? No need to piggyback.
Isn’t there a 15mm that is an FET with a fairly wide ground ring? This could be sanded down or filed down to 14mm, no?
Edit: A very close look at the A17DD-S08 reveals that it just might be able to got down to 14mm with some careful work. I’d try that.
Edit II: Richard has a board similar to this one that I’m pretty sure will make 14mm. Shoot Richard a PM and ask him to check it.
Honestly, the current doesn’t have to be very high. 1x7135 could do in a pinch (100-ish OTF lumens w/ Nichia 219), though 1x7135 plus a FET would be even better. It’s nice to have a bright turbo, and extra amps for quick flashes in party strobe mode.
Clearance from the edge is almost zero. The 14mm driver gets contact from a battery-side retaining ring, and the 15mm driver gets contact from the main battery tube.
Room would be needed for a SOIC clip, since the main point is to replace boring stock drivers with nice flashable ones.
That sounds amazing, and basically ideal. And if you stock a 17mm FET+7135 driver, I’d be happy to buy several of those too.
No zener mod would be needed in either case, but an off-time cap is really nice to have if there’s room.
On the 15mm host (D25A), there’s plenty of vertical room so I could do that. The 15mm driver doesn’t even need to be single-sided if I set it up the same as the stock driver, which is floating above a contact board. (3-part contact plate… bat+, bat- threads, and bat- tube… so it can sense when the tube is fully tightened)
Looking closer at this D25A driver, it has an 8-legged MCU which looks rather a lot like an unlabelled attiny13. I’m tempted to remove the contact plate and ask avrdude if it’s recognizable.
However, the 14mm host has very limited vertical space… only about 3.5mm for the entire driver with components and battery contact areas. I think oshpark’s minimum thickness is 1.6mm, which leaves a max of 2.0mm for the components. I might even need to file down the driver-side edges of the board to make it fit, since the stock PCB is just over half as thick as an oshpark board.
I mean will the driver be resting on a ledge that requires the parts not go right up to 14mm or 15mm? A floating board that doesn’t rest on any ledge could have zero clearance.
So how is that done?
Is the output current shared across the two boards ? So the output from each board goes to the LED, each board has irs own input from battery, plus the PWM signal from master to slave?
I think that DrJones has the best description on his page. The Master-slave description is at the very bottom.
These boards, like the 16mm board, were created to fit inside of a (deep enough) 17mm driver pill.