MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

So, can we rig a handful of this new U4 into the Meteor? Mix and match? I want to build a light with at least one of every family member :bigsmile:

That should be fun, huh? lol

[Gj1 (Gj)]

Supfire coupon expired already?

[RMM]

@Gj

Supfire coupon expired already?

I've had a few requests to extend it, so I'm going to extend it until the 27th.

[DayLighter]

Didn’t get the coupon for supfire :_(

[RMM]

@DayLighter

Didn’t get the coupon for supfire :_(

You're not on the newsletter subscription list then. SUPL320

[saypat]

@RMM

@Gj

Supfire coupon expired already?

I’ve had a few requests to extend it, so I’m going to extend it until the 27th.

Hi. I just tried the coupon code at 11:00 a.m. Did not work for me. How much of a discount is it? All caps, right? Thanks.

[RMM]

@saypat

Hi. I just tried the coupon code at 11:00 a.m. Did not work for me. How much of a discount is it? All caps, right? Thanks.

Works for me, and it should have worked for you.

[saypat]

@RMM

@saypat

Hi. I just tried the coupon code at 11:00 a.m. Did not work for me. How much of a discount is it? All caps, right? Thanks.

Works for me, and it should have worked for you.

I keep trying and it’s not working. I’m logged in. I have tried copying and pasting, and entering manually. I use Safari browser. Am I spacing out? Should i try Firefox?

edit: Tried Firefox. Coupon not working. I tried using the coupon both at checkout, and while looking at cart. Frustrating. I reloaded browser. I’ll try checking out as a guest and see. Does this work on all Supfire lights?

edit ll: ONLY GOOD ON L3 FLASHLIGHT!

[RMM]

It works on the L3. That's what was in the newsletter.

[DayLighter]

I got the message “Warning: Coupon is either invalid, expired or reached it’s usage limit! :~

edit: never mind… works for me on supfire L3

[sesgum]

Hi Richard, Just sent you a pm.

[Gj1 (Gj)]

@RMM

@Gj

Supfire coupon expired already?

I've had a few requests to extend it, so I'm going to extend it until the 27th.

Thanks!

[ToyKeeper]

@DBCstm

So, can we rig a handful of this new U4 into the Meteor? Mix and match? I want to build a light with at least one of every family member :bigsmile:

That should be fun, huh? lol

Fun for the whole family!

You could fit a few of each, make it a party! Am I invited???

[ToyKeeper]

But seriously, the Meteor seems like a good opportunity for mixing. I wonder how something like this would look? (one bullet per optic, outer-most emitter first)

• Nichia, WW XP-L, CW XP-L
• Nichia, de-domed XP-L 1A, de-domed XP-G2 1D
• Nichia, WW XP-G2, CW XP-G2
• Nichia, de-domed XP-L 2A , de-domed XP-G2 1D

I think it might give a nice neutral tint with vivid color rendition and a balance of flood and … um, slightly throwy flood. Might want to mix up which optics are used too, since the 10507 produces lots of artifacts. Maybe 10511 on the de-domed optics and 10508 on the regular ones? Not sure, it’d probably take a fair amount of experimenting to figure out what works.

[calan]

How much current can the spring on the Qlite driver handle, without any modification?

Or to put it another way… if I were to add 3 or 4 chips to the standard Qlite 3.04A, would I need to modify or replace the spring?

[RMM]

@calan

How much current can the spring on the Qlite driver handle, without any modification? Or to put it another way… if I were to add 3 or 4 chips to the standard Qlite 3.04A, would I need to modify or replace the spring?

Well, I know it can handle 8A+ without collapsing, but it does drop some voltage and generate some heat. 3 or 4 chips is no problem. Djozz measured a 82mV drop across the spring at 6A (much less than most longer springs). That's not a ton of juice, but a spring bypass always helps.

[ToyKeeper]

The spring shouldn’t melt at that current, but it’s not exactly going to help either… A spring bypass reduces resistance/heat (and increases current) even if the spring isn’t in danger.

[AlexGT]

Hi RMM, I placed an order for the new Cree U4 1C’s along with other stuff. Check your PM

Thanks!

[calan]

@RMM

Well, I know it can handle 8A+ without collapsing, but it does drop some voltage and generate some heat. 3 or 4 chips is no problem.

@ToyKeeper

The spring shouldn’t melt at that current, but it’s not exactly going to help either… A spring bypass reduces resistance/heat (and increases current) even if the spring isn’t in danger.

Cool beans. Thanks guys.

[nickzom]

@RMM

I don’t have as much experience as many of you here, but I’ve had good luck using 60/40 vs. 63/37 solder and turning the temperature down a bit on my iron after adhering the initial solder to the star and outer ring. It seems like the 60/40 is easier to form bridges with; I’m assuming that it’s because of the increased plasticity range vs. 63/37 eutectic but you know what they say about assumptions!

This was done with 60/40 solder (don’t mind the extra flux):

The joint may not be ideal (perhaps a bit cold) but it seems to be stuck on there well and it’s not a high current joint anyways.

i usually use 62/36/2% tin/lead/silver solder for all my soldering vs my 60/40 and 70/30 and do that. usually have to get solder on the star and then on the ring, let cool and then quickly bridge it. i have 4 different kinds of solder and never really experimented.

and on the note of springs, i usually replace steel springs with the fasttech copper springs. on qlite drivers i solder the small end to board. if the spring is braided i dont worry about it.