I thought the same thing. So I bought a hundred of them and decided to try it. The big surprise came when I actually realized how small those things really are. At that moment I knew my fingers were useless. I needed tweezers. Good tweezers. So I got the right tools and had a bunch of extra Nanjg drivers laying around that I could practice on. It took me about a week to figure it out. Believe me, you can do it.
Probably pretty soon, but I'd give it a shot if you have the inclination. Here's a video of how I do it, but Old-Lumens also has a video.
Maybe. I have electronics experience, but I have a hard time just soldering inverted springs and braid to those drivers. I’ll probably get around to trying it eventually.
Got my first guppydrv Qlite yesterday, and am enjoying playing with it. Makes it really easy to configure lights for different purposes without worrying about which driver to use in the build. For me, there are a few mode groups I wish it had, and some that I will never have a use for…but having some choices is nice. Can you offer alternative groups with that driver, or is the firmware hard-coded into all the Qlite drivers when you get them?
Damn it…I wish I hadn’t of found your store Richard. About to send more money to you for more stuff I don’t really “need”. 
With the guppydrv, they are hard coded. DrJones is the author of that firmware, and I don't have the source for it. If you have a specific mode group in mind, you can get it with the STAR FW option (although you'll be stuck with those modes, unless you reflash).
I've struggled with this ethical quandary for some time now. Much like a drug dealer, I've had to attempt to justify my actions in providing these "goods" to fellow addicts, and have attempted to shift the responsibility away from myself. "They're going to use anyways, so they might as well get it from me---where at least I know they will be buying quality." 
<------(That was supposed to be sarcastic, in case you didn't get it 
.)
Aint that the truth. We know that you don’t stomp on your batteries with cement powder. You got the good sh*t.
When I heard that the XM-L2 U4 was coming out, I just knew that I had to get them. I had to buy an entire reel of LEDs to get them, but they are paid for and on the way. 
Tint is 1C. I'll be putting them up shortly.
Gotta get me some of these…! :party: Any idea on the ETA?
you bought 1000 LEDs? 
Yep, 1000. Should be here next week.
I was operating under the assumption that the lower the letter code, the brighter the bin. So a V5 or V6 XP-L would be significantly better than a U2 or U3 XM-L2.
Since you are so excited over a higher ‘U’ bin, I’m guessing that assumption was wrong?
You’ll be selling them on noctigons I hope?
Time to throw away all my XM-L2 u3’s!
Crap.
Is the XM-L2 U4 bin the equivalent of the XP-L V6 bin in terms of brightness?
I think that it should be brighter. I think the U3 is comparable to V6.
Cree does weird things when output binning, the XM-L2 binning is based on a letter system that compares at 700mA, the XP-L (which is basically the same led) is compared with a different letter system at (if I remember well) 1150 mA. But the letters that are used are next to each other which suggest that it is one system.
And recently they used the XP-L letter system to bin the XP-E 'Torch', which is utter nonsense and obscures that the 'Torch' is not much more than a 1 or 2 bin upgrade to the XP-E2.
Within the same LED family this is generally true, but you can't compare directly between families. In this way, Cree's flux bin designations can be confusing. If what you are saying were true, then an XM-L2 would have more output than an XHP50 or XHP70.
True, I didn’t even think about the XHP’s.
A lot of letters come after J and N, maybe Cree is leaving a lot of headroom for higher rated XHP’s? 
So what will the Kelvin be?
1C is roughly 6000k-6500k
Ok same as all the other XMLs.